NebraskaS10
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Posts posted by NebraskaS10
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You could have some of the port on the outside of the box.
im thinking my other option would be port forward, because i don't have the clearance on either side, right side i have a window thats a few inches away, other side i have the cup holders (that i would like to keep)
do you think port up wouldn't be the best option?
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Where is the port firing? Up
yes it is firing up, because its so long, my only option would be firing up, with about 6" of clearance between wall and port, or port forward, which gives like 2 inches of clearance between port and wall
heres the box dimensions (sealed left, ported right)
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That was taken from my phone. At wok.
oh ok, well what if i did this design instead?? I have a cupholder in my back, which gives me weird dimensions
Port is 5" round x 15" long, for a tune of 45.3 Hz
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Sub could also be inverted into the ported side ...
ahh alright thanks man, btw if you just use the print screen button (next to f12) you can paste it into a paint document and be good to go
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Will I be in a trunk?
no, it will be in an extended cab truck, in the back part, behind the drivers seat
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So between .6-.75 sealed, would that mean 1.2-1.5 ported, and what kind of tune would i be looking at for the ported side?
Also would an aero work?? I've heard that 4th orders need lots of port area (20 sq/in per cube), is that also why people choose slot
ports?
Thirdly, what kind of tuning would i be looking at?
I tend to stuck between 11 - 16 square inches per cube.
.6 - .75 sealed, 1.2 - 1.5 ported, after displacements. 43 - 45 hz tune. Aeros work, I just prefer slot
ahh ok, well yeah its hard to get 11-16 per cube using aeros, but i've heard that port placement matters a lot in fourth order, could you elaborate on this?? like does it matter if sub up/ port side, or sub side/ port up?
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So between .6-.75 sealed, would that mean 1.2-1.5 ported, and what kind of tune would i be looking at for the ported side?
Also would an aero work?? I've heard that 4th orders need lots of port area (20 sq/in per cube), is that also why people choose slot ports?
Thirdly, what kind of tuning would i be looking at?
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Well i need help designing a new box for the sub in my signature. I have been reading up on bandpasses and am pretty sure thats the route i want to go, and from what i've read i think i want a box that has a 2:1 (Ported:Sealed) and tuning should be mid 40s.
My goals are to smash lows (low 30s) and still be able to get loud, maybe get it metered. So does anyone have any help? I have around 3-4 cubes to play with, and need some more help on total port area, total size for the chambers, and maybe port placement/type.
Thanks all
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Well I just checked and i have 12.56^inches total (12.31 per cube) so hopefully i see some sort of similar results
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No. Car doesn't like 40hz plus that much thankfully. Moves a shit ton if air and is very musical at doing it. I'm sure with a little work I could get another db or 2 with some deadener and adjustments but as soon as it gets warm here new subs and box is going in. This was just a winter build to get me by so I haven't tried changing the port for different tuning yet. I may before I rebuild though just to see
Ahh i gotcha, i was just wondering because i might step up to 2k in the future on this sub, and was hoping for a 40 off of the 1200 im giving it now, but we'll see
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any burp numbers or higher notes??
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alright thats what i figured, just wanted to make sure
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Is sound at lower Hz, a more elongated sine wave (long and skinny, with gradual ups and downs)
and at a higher hz, more compact (lots of waves, with quick ups and downs)
The reason i ask is because lower bass seems to make my sub pound slower/ move less then higher bass notes, so i figured it might have something to do with the sound/sine wave??
Or am i just completely wrong on this subject?
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That's gettin DOWN!
thats with windows open too, found this was the loudest (to the ear anyways)
pics of install:
wires nice and sealed up from the box, with a sexy pvc port
amp all wired up and looking good
side view, showing clearance from behind my seat
Gonna paint the box/ make an amp rack in the spring or summer whenever it gets nicer outside, but for now it works
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1 DC Audio Level 4 with Level 5 Soft parts.
Sound Stream 1200D Stealth Series.
Stock battery stock alt.
about 40 sq feet of deadening. I'm just gonna keep on layering it up I guess until the trunk lid does not open. The little hinges already squeak because of the weight of the deadening on the lid when it opens.
Gain is only about 1/3 of the way up.
Never gets warm or smelly.
Custom box 1.8 cubes tuned to 30.92 hz haha.
- GBS
yeah the Level 4 with level 5 parts can really take some power, i have gain at a little past half on my AQ1200D and it takes it like a champ
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just fyi, 14.4V isnt lined up with the bolded wattage
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I live in Lincoln and I have 3 sets of dc's.
2 - lvl 3 10's
2 - lvl 3 12's
2 - lvl 4 12's
So I could let you here them if you were local. All have varying power and all the 12's are running well over rated power.
Just thought I would offer.
ahh maybe, you looking to offload any of them within the next couple months?
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Where are u from in Nebraska?
Omaha. why?
EDIT; The ones on ebay are dual 2 ohm, so i'll be running @ 4 ohms, and my amp is rated 600W @ 4 ohms so that is perfect
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why not buy a sub like a lvl 4 or xl that can take that power or a matching lvl 3 unless you like breaking shit
$$$
theres a level 3 on ebay goin for $125 shipped, unless level 4s are less than 175 shipped.
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I wouldn't do it. They're rated 600w each.
I heard they were a little underrated, and know this amp can be cranked down to 800W at 2 ohms. would that be alright?
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950W @ 2 ohms from my Audiopipe 15001D
Will a single Level 3 be able to take it, if i crank the gain down a bit
Poorboy6977s Ranger 2 XL 15s & 9K NEW PICS PG2
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
Posted
hey man how wide is the bottom of your box??? I'm about to do a below window line box and was thinking 40" wide