Dub7Banger
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Posts posted by Dub7Banger
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damn i missed it
I still got Deal or No deal and Theraputic music free. =D Look hard enough, it's there. Jelly Roll is cold, I just don't pay for music, ever.
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GEEZE ! that many batterys ?! i didnt think it would take that much . thanks dub7 for that formula i think ill mess with it and try to comee up with something ..
i sent dom an email from irragi and see what he reccommends , but i was just curious on how to figure this out for myself . (if i just keep asking for the answers how will i learn anything) might be a stupid question but are so "many" batterys needed? i kinda was thinking with the alt upgrades 1/amp would have done the trick .. then again ive never ran more than 3 amps and even then i only had 2 aux. batts.
Hate to thread jack but could anyone answer my round about question? If watts = Amps x Volts, what if i'm running 3 12v batteries? Even though there's 3x 12v batteries, that wouldn't make my equation 85ax36v = 3060w would it?
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ok so i know its not uncommon to run big systems with not enough power, or its not uncommon to see rather. so how much power IS enough ? i dont want to starve my setup or just barely squeese buy , but i dont want to overkill it ether. so whats the formula to determine how many alts. (if i need more than 1) how many batts. if any extra , how many supply amps the alts have to be to run efficent ? i am installing (4) soundstream xxx6500's so i dont need anything to crazy ie : SMD's charging system or JP's quad setup but i want to have the power i NEED . thanks in advance for any help. take care guys !
All I know is Watts = Amps x Volts, but I don't know how to stack the charge from multiple 12v batteries.
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more than likely if a thief cant get it for himself, he'll fuck it up for you.
Yeah. That's why when I get my shit in the trunk i'll caulk the lock closed, cause i'm ghetto like that. By the time someone actually pops a lock on one of the doors i'll already be at the back of their head.
I had a set of them and the don't work worth a damn in my openion
I don't see why/how? It's simple, you use the tap side of the bit, drill into the screw/bolt/etc, make sure it actually taps into the metal a good bit, or the removal side of the bit won't have anything to grab onto.
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first off, im going to say that this was JUST AN IDEA so dont call me a dumbass or some other shit like that but..
everybody has seen those commercials for the GraBit right, that drill bit that can supposedly take out any stripped screw, well what if you stripped the fuck out of the screws you used to mount your subs and amp(s) so they wouldnt be able to be unscrewed and stolen by some thief with a screwdriver, and then use the GraBit when you want to take them out? seriously this was just an idea.
Sounds like a legit idea to me. And FYI that GraBit is pro, I used my neighbors set to get some old ass rusted/stripped screws out of my screen door and it worked like a charm.
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I think chode is the Fonz of the SPL world. Just a simple observation.
EDIT: Maybe Hyde from That 70's Show.
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Personally I love my lvl 5's lol I'd go with that!
If your interested in used I might be able to help ya!
This man speaks nothing but the truth. Thanks again Rob.
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The Gravedigger is fcking pro! Some little kid somewhere is gettin all the little girls.
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Alright what size box should i have him build tomorrow and what size ports should i order. I wanted to have a box built by a sub shop but when i told them it was a dc sub they started ripping on me saying it was a cheap ebay sub, they didn't know rob dyrdek was making subs now, and that my only problem was that i needed a new sub. Their pretty big too i believe there called Sub Zero Sounds in MN.
Call me retarded but uh....I don't think Rob Dyrdek has anything to do with DC Sound Labs?
And to the OP, I'd PM and ask Rob (Thorshammer) the best ported enclosure size for the XL 12. The website states 6cf for a Level 5 18, but he told me to shoot for 5.5 after all displacement.
Once you do that, you know what size to aim for using the Torres calculator, then just get the woofer displacement, (which I believe someone stated was .19cf), then bracing displacement, (Just as a random fyi, a single 12' 2x3 is .5cf, that ought to fit most bracing needs) figure out what thickness to do all around, figure out your baffle thickness (Are you gonna double up? I would) then work out a slot port, and if that doesn't work out the way you need it to, use aeros. (In most cases will take up less box volume)
EDIT!: Ok now I got myself thinking. DC Sound Labs and DC Shoes/clothing/etc are NOT the same company are they?
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Make sure you put some pretty good bracing in it, you'll need it with the lvl 5.
If you put elbows in then you just measure the length down the center of the port. The great thing is that if you run the ports through the seat or rear deck then most of the port isn't in the box which means that it should be easier to get the right tuning and have sufficient port area.
Yup yup, that's the idea. I'mma use a whole 12' 2x3 in any way I can. Wanna see how it's all gonna work out with the port and woofer placement.
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What about running them through the rear deck? That would be better than cutting hole in your seats. Also, what thickness wood are you using?
I'll be using 3/4 all around, but double up for the baffle. And I can't go up through the rear deck without having to put elbows somewhere and I don't really know how to put those in the equation.
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Why not just calculate for flared aeros. If they still need to be longer that the 17" or whatever they come in, you can always put the flares on the ends of pvc pipe and boom, longer aero. It will free up some room in the box for you.
Space isn't really the issue, the issue was getting it to the right tuning, with sufficient port area. I'm shooting for 5.5 cubes after all displacement. And I hate to say it, but once I get this all in and banging, I doubt i'll be doing too much extra work. With me being as new to CA as I am I doubt i'll notice a difference between a flared port and just straight PVC. But back to a previous question, Would it sound right if I run the three aforementioned aero's through my back seat into the cabin? With 15 or so inches of protruding port I doubt i'll have issue getting them all the way through the seat.
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You don't need that much port area when using aeros...You will be fine with 8-10" of port area per cube with true aeros.
I don't think they'll be true aero's considering i'm just gonna grab a 12 foot section of 6" PVC pipe, and cut three lengths. Is too much port area a problem dealing with Aeros?
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you wont have a problem with PVC the way you have it planned out. just make sure there is at least 6" on both ends, for that port to breathe.
Seems like an odd question, but, since i'll have the woofer in the trunk firing towards the trunk lid, would it sound good if I cut three holes in my back seat and ran the ports through the holes? Sealing up around them of course so the trunk and cabin remain separate.
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Well I thought about aero's, only problem is I kinda gotta make em ridiculously long, and I don't think they sell flared ones in the size I need so i'd have to use straight PVC. Would this create crappy sounding bass because of port noise?
Anyone?
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pics of your friends box? where he sprayed on tons of prime and lots of clear..
You may also want to look into three stage automotive paint. Cars are shiny right?
ALSO! Just googled looking for some shinier paint products, and if Killer Cans actually works it might be promising. DISREGARD WHAT THIS SAID A MINUTE AGO, READ IT WRONG. You still have to buy a primer, base, clear, clear. Or get one of the kits.
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My buddy used some house primer in a can and rolled it on thick...
Then shot his color and lots of clear...
This is basically what I was thinking. It'd probably be the cheaper route too.
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okay so i want to get that glossy black mirror finish on my sub box.. BUT its expensive and alot of work and prep to get it that way..
soo i was wondering if there are alternatives? i heard you can use kitchen laminate or something? whats that stuff? is it expensive? hard to use? where to find? basically this is asking about "laminating" your sub box? please someone go into detail.. thanks..
I'd be interested in finding this stuff out too. Wouldn't making a shiny boxy just consist of Paint + lots of clear coat? Get the ghetto chameleon paint job in a can and do a box.
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18's make your CA penis bigger, plus, iirc, 1x 18 has more cone area than 2x 12's, which ran on the same power, = MOAR DEEBEEZ (IIRC)
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If you want to get the flatest response I would go seald. And seald can also be loud too. If you go ported u would tune to anythin between 28 and 31 hz for the flatest response.
Well I was gonna go sealed but the Level 5 isn't reccomended to be sealed, so i'm trying to work it out for ported.
ever thought about using aeros? more efficient and take up less room in the box. too late for me to go into detail, but throwing something out there for you to think about until someone else chimes in
Well I thought about aero's, only problem is I kinda gotta make em ridiculously long, and I don't think they sell flared ones in the size I need so i'd have to use straight PVC. Would this create crappy sounding bass because of port noise? I've got it equated out to 3x 6" ports 31.5 inches in length, with 15.25 external port length, giving me 32.59hz tuning, and puts me exactly at 5.5cubes after all displacement.
Also this gives me 15.41 square inches per foot, and a port area of 84.78 square inches.
I think a few Aeros could solve your problem much more efficient in space and performance wise. just cost a bit more
See above reply. Seems to work out pretty well, and yeah, a 12 foot section of PVC is like 48 bucks at Lowes.
I'm still here if you need help you know, I sent you an idea and you never replied?
Yeah bro, I'm sorry. I just didn't wanna blow your idea down. I can't upgrade to 1" MDF because of cost/lack of it being at Lowe's.
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As the title and topic explain, i'm trying to design a box using the Torres calc (ultra helpful) and there's some things I need to figure out. I'd like the box to sound good, doesn't have to get loud, just sound good. The woofer i'm designin the box for is a Level 5 18. I'm shooting for 5.5 cubes after displacement as recommended by rob. I'm gonna use 3/4 all around, and double up for the baffle. I have to work with a little over 12 inches, gonna have to notch some plastic to get the baffle on, and use a 12' 2x3 for bracing, which comes out to about .5cubes for bracing displacement, but anyways, I have no clue what to do for the port. I wanna shoot somewhere in the low 30's to really hit the lows, but not too low so it can still hit some of the higher notes. And I just don't know much as far as tuning. I THINK i'm shooting for somewhere around 60 square inches of port area, but what about port per foot? I've read between 12-16 is the magic number for quite a few subs but haven't read any specifics on the level 5.
After all displacement EXCLUDING the port I have 5.78 cubes left, which isn't too much room to play with. If I do equate it out to roughly 12 inches per foot, then I don't have enough room to give the port enough length to drop the tuning down low. Would it still sound good if the port has less than 12^2 per foot? Most of the ones I work out to be around 32-35hz generally have port area somewhere around 40-60 and inches per foot around 8-10.
btw, dimensions on the box are 11inX37inX38in. Sub will be up, and port will probably be facing the drivers side towards the back of the box, only place it won't choke up.
EDIT: I won't get back to this till morning. Super fucking tired.
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lol @ 4wheel drive eclipse, hmm can street race and mudd bogg at the same time, cool
I like the idea of Cars on Truck frames, but that looks like a hot wheel. My cousin has a '87 El Camino on a '79 GMC truck frame. No big rims or nothing like that though, just fun to play in the mud and on snow/ice .
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So im pretty new to this forum but it seems everryone knows what there talking about so i had a question about my subwoofer, there 3 10s hooked up to 2 amps and they seem kinda offbeat on fast paced bass songs and some slow ones too, anyone have any idea how to fix that? Oh and i have my rcas for my first amp going into my second.
What amps you got hooked up, how are they hooked up, and what ohms you running at?
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weezy's shit is sick but hes just a straight up b@#$h not hating just sayin the truth.
He's really gay, no doubt. No man kisses their "dad" on the mouth. But Elton John is gay too, but his music is great. But since i've said it before, being a gay rapper? You lose cool points.
I don't give a damn if the he's a woman if I like it I'll listen to it.
"Ballin' with my bloods, call it B-Ball." haha
That's one thing Lil Wayne CAN"T do. He's good at writting rhymes and witty shit but he can't freestyle on the spot like others. Kid Cudi being my favorite do to his unique off the top freestyles.
Have you heard any of his mixtapes? The Blue Martian, The Drought is Over 4, No Ceilings, The Dedication? He did a lot of freestyles over other peoples beats. And when someone comes onto someone elses beat and kills them that's good shit. I think the first song I heard by Wayne that actually made me start listening to him was Cannon off of the Dedication 2."Howdy do mother fuckas it's weezy baby n****s bitchin so I gotta tote the cannon, listen close I got duct tape and rope I'll leave you missin like the fucking obannons. One hand on my money, one hand on my buddy, that's the AK-47 make this neighborhood love me" Just part of the first verse and I was hooked on his shit forever.
Having box problems
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
Posted
What DC sub are you talking about