Wynndiesel
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Posts posted by Wynndiesel
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As brutal as that thing is now, I would cut 4 more holes in the baffles you have now and give that a shot first. Damn thing gets nasty in the mid 20s!
Yea im gonna try it out, and try to seal off the rear ports to see how it sounds as a 4th order
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Is that Ben that had the xls ?
Any numbers?
yea that's me! had 3 xl 18's, then ran two for a while, now 4 15" m2 XL's. ripping it out tomorrow for rebuild :-)
no numbers
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this pic is the 28hz port it is 6.25in tall, 30in wide, 35in deep.but only 15in of it goes into box. it is shaped like a L, when i remove the 28hz port it becomes a normal sub up port back box tuned to 43hz port is [7.75in tall, 31.5in wide, 11in deep. 43hz port has 8in from back hatch to breath.
internal box volume before sub and port displacements is 17.8, outer mesurements are 23in tall, 45in wide, 36in deep. double baffle, dowel bracing
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they just need lots of power and they'll slam! 2000w per sub
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if they are on ur comp, use full editor to the right of the post button and add them as an attachment
can't figure out how to add as attachment
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I had 2 15in hcca's on a aq 3500 and I loved em! got loud and low! wish I would never have sold em
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we need port area, not sqin/cuft to help
also, pics would help
28hz port is 30in x 6.25 35in deep 43hz port is 31.5 x 7.75 11in deep
how do I load pics? I only know how to load YouTube vids
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Do u have any specs on the box? .5 displacement for the port don't seem right in a box that big. Also what car
28hz port is port up! when I remove it 43hz port is port back, 28hz port slips into the 43hz port, then L's out to top of box making it port up
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what kind of vehicle is this in? i presume an SUV?
01 Durango
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Try cutting the port down so it's tuned to 37hz and if you gain something cut it down even more.
You peak so high, because the resonant frequency fo your car is probably 43hertz or somewhere close to it.
why is my 43hz port 1db quieter? because it has more port area???
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I have 3 18's and 9k of power! my box is 15 cu ft after all displacements tuned between 27 and 28hz 12in of port per cu ft. my peak frequency is 43hz. why do I peak so high when I'm tuned so low?
the 28hz port is removable, when I take it out, my box is 15.5 cu ft tuned to 43hz 16in of port per cu ft. still peaks at 43hz but 1db quieter. shouldn't it be louder since its tuned higher and more port area???
I can get up to a 149.6 on a term-lab. should I be hitting better numbers with my setup? should I build a better box???? any tips on how I can build a better box? (enclosure volume, port area, tuning)
equipment is 3 dc xl 18's on a dc 9k, 2 330amp singer alts, 3 kinetik hc2400s, 2 hc3800s,with 6 runs of pos and 4 runs of neg 1/0 gauge
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trying to order, checkout failed??? can't proceed to checkout???
it's working now. order completed!
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trying to order, checkout failed??? can't proceed to checkout???
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DC 9k to 96150
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$80/hour + alternator and materials. You pay shop time for the design, construction and installation of this unit. There is no market for a dual bracket kit for most cars, we would never sell another, so it's not profitable to develop one.
is there a shop on the west coast????
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my volume on my head unit has to be all the way up and the gain on my amp fairly high for my dd-1 signal detect light to pop on
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I disconnected the negative and positive from the amp going to the sub and plugged in the dd-1 and the source light didn't come on. The only light I can get to come on is the power light. Does anyone have any solutions or ideas as to whats going on? I'm testing through the amp.
turn up head unit and amp gain.
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I had this happen with my 04 envoy. The alt is regulated internally by itself so its not like the newer vehicles where the ecu controls my voltage output on the alt. The problem mine had is that the ground from my battery to the engine and frame was getting rusty. Everytime i cleaned it up, my voltage would come back up to 14.9v warm but when it got a little bit of rust, it would start to drop back down at 13v. I also noticed a random "dancing" affect of my volt meter in my dash when i first started my truck up. The voltage would go up to 14.4v but drop to 13, go up, back down, and then stay steady. As soon as i fixed the ground it worked fine. I would just double check your positive and ground wires in your engine to make sure they have no corrosion or rust on them and go from there.
Mine was extremely sensitive to rust and would screw up my charging system a ton with it.
all connections tight no rust
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I dont know if you did this or not, this is only something to consider, but when you first checked it was your air conditioner NOT on in your car and it is now? Because that load usually lowers the voltage. Just something to think about if you have an added load on the vehicle now when it's running.
voltage stays the same with ac on and off. maybe changes by .1v
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wynndiesel are you the same as wynn just different name?
my last name is Wynn. wynndiesel is a nickname my friends came up with making fun of me! it kinda Stuck for a few years! sounds like vin diesel ya haha funny!
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At the same time, you realize its 100+ degrees here, not sure what it is where you're from, but I would imagine that might also effect it.
summer here is 75 80 tops. winter is 30s almost never in the never in the negative degrees (maybe on a super cold winter nite) last september alt and batts were reading 14.7 u think after running in cold weather for 4-5 months then when the weather warmed up it changed my charging voltage???
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When you hooked the other amp up you disconnected the batt..
I disconnected fuses but not wire
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have you tried contacting DC themselves?
will be buying a dual alt set up in a couple months when I have money. was thinking add another dc 270xp but now thinking ditch the dc alt and try to get a dual mechmen setup
Thorshammer Gets hair tricked Video!! Mid 20 hz flex!!
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
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