KHRISS
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Posts posted by KHRISS
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he'll probably suffocate lmaoMix resin and Hefner its easy
Hardener. Not Hefner. He's too old to fit in a trunk.
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LMFAOMix resin and Hefner its easy
Hardener. Not Hefner. He's too old to fit in a trunk.
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is optima and xs power a good combination ???????
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people should read before posting just saying it makes everybodies job easie
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STEVE LETS SAY A 6-Channel Digital Crossover and Equalizer 3-way CrossoverSeems like a great product for someone using the amp's xovers on an amp for an "active" setup, but then it'd jus be good for a base point because I personally like to adjust the xovers by ear. I do love my DD-1 though.
I'm sure many would like to see the DD-1 and CC-1 combined to one product.setting your crossovers by ear is fine if you dont care about precision. You might think its at 8Ohz when its really at 62 (or 102 for that matter) Really, a few hz wont matter too much in a single subwoofer amp situation. 62, 8O, 102, who cares LOL - but if you have more then one amp on the woofers, it starts to matter more. It becomes less of a preference and more of a necessity. I mean, if you have 2 amps and 2 subs (especially the same chamber), its a lot more important to nail the x-overs on both then it would be if it was just one amp. Same thing if you had 2, 2 channel amps running each set of door panels. Even a 4 channel. I personally would want my x-overs to be the same. You cant do that by ear.
if you are running fully active and leaving the amps on full-pass, and have a digital processor in front of them.......then you may or may not need to use this product. Depends on which crossover you are using.
regardless, this isnt a toy, its a TOOL. So if you think you will only use it once and never use it again, maybe it isnt for you. If you are a car audio NUT like me, and know you will want to be PRECISE for the rest of your life from here on out, then it IS for you. If you don't care, and prefer to guess all your settings, more power to you.
1/3 Octave / 1/2 octave equalization per channel
2 Parametric equalizers per channel
24db/octave linkwitz riley alignment crossover PFM subsonic filter and Digital Frequency Adjustment would the CC1 be needed for this ????? just to be clear
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music was playing then it stopped i go back and check everything and i notice this what cause this?
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YES is the one with the ignition from your SIGyes i did that already i moved the jumper settings the one in the top conner and the ones in the bottom and still the noise is there
You have to be a detective and go step-by-step to rule in or out specific pieces of equipment or wiring as the cause. See the link in my sig. Every situation is different.
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i like the rounded port
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this company is the best i always buy from them superior customer service and shipping is super fast
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yes they all 12vis it ok to have a optima yellow top under the hood and two kinetiks in the back since they both AGM ? or a optima up front and two xs power in the back ??? thanks to those that take their time on replying to my NOOB ass lol i appreciated
As long as they both run on the same voltage (e.g. 12v) then yep!
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nice steve now my wish list is 3 things now
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is it ok to have a optima yellow top under the hood and two kinetiks in the back since they both AGM ? or a optima up front and two xs power in the back ??? thanks to those that take their time on replying to my NOOB ass lol i appreciated
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today i connect my power wire 0 gauge from front to back i dont have no more 0 gauge wire i should be getting a spool soonBest locations are strut towers since you have multiple sheets of metal welded there for strength and will allow the best transfer, use an alt bracket for the engine and ground on the battery under the hood since you will be running 2 2500's off the battery bank in back.
EDIT: Also make a pair of runs in the front from chassis to body and in back also from body to chassis, they won't need to be long but will allow as much transfer as possible and help eliminate any possible ground issues.
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can i weld a metal plate on the chassis then connect the front battery there then weld a metal plate in the back and connect the two back batteries there would that work too ??????I would do 2 runs from the engine bay back to the batteries, one on the engine and the other from the front battery all the way back to your extra bank along with a pair of grounds to the body and or chassis of the car. You can never have enough ground wires ran in a car especially with today's modern electronics installed.
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im just running the t1000.4 and the processors off that but for the two t2500 im doing it off the chassis well actually im doing two batteries in the back so the two t2500 can get the ground off the two batteries and the two batteries off the chassis with the big 3Its a decent ground, but for the 2500 you say your running in your sig, I wouldnt use that. At the least I would drill and tap the frame to use for the ground. The best thing I would do is do a neg run back to the front batt. that will help with adding extra batts in the back too.
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ill do that and ill post a picture tomorrow
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ill be doing a big 3not a completely good ground, if you are running a system that you don't care about go for it, but a good ground would be frame of the car, drop the ground, drill a hole, or if you have enough run it to the engine block front frame of the car
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I'm sure many would like to see the DD-1 and CC-1 combined to one product.
Hifonics Gladiator amps???
in Amplifiers
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honestly just go with the BRZ or BRE