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dmz2711

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Posts posted by dmz2711

  1. That is true...I saw the aftermath of that happening. It ain't pretty. Happened to an 05 Galant. The guy hooked up his system himself instead of the shop where he bought it all from. Well he ran the power wire through the fold down back seat and wasn't careful not to pinch it off when the seat was up. Well that happened and it arc'd...bad. So bad it melted the wire all along the drivers side of the car where he ran the wire, through the door jamb, where it also melted the wires for the windows, power locks, and power mirrors. Went through the firewall, into the fusebox, which blew up, and to the battery, which blew up. It got so hot that the paint on the drivers side fender blistered, melted all the plastic the wire touched along the way, and the battery acid ate up his engine compartment. All because he put the fuse between the amp and back seat, not closer to the battery like he should have done. He paid $11,000 for the car brand new (05 model close out) and did over $6000 in damage within a week. 

    So yeah, batteries can explode.

    damn man, that sucks. destoyed a brand new car :o at least he got a good deal on it($11,000 brand new)....

  2. yea like ray said. some wires pass through the fuse box, some dont. mine doesnt. just add on to the existing wires like he said. do that with all the upgrades with the big 3. leave everything alone, just add. another thing, ive heard sometimes if theres a short in your electrical system, ur battery can explode.

    alright man sounds good, thanks for the advice!

  3. Wow just a little off on that one.

    First off, personally i do not see a need for a fuse on a 1ft wire run, if there is a problem, let it burn.. hardly anyone will fuse a big 3 upgrade from the alt. to the batt.

    Second, the fuse is only there to protect the wire. PERIOD.

    Last but not least there is no need to remove the factory alt. charge wire, remember the whole reason you are doing this wire upgrade.......... path of least resistance.

    end rant/

    the reason i thought about fusing it is because the wire from my alt to my battery will be around 3 feet long. I read some where that fusing it would be the safe way to go. So, even with the wire being longer than 1 foot, do you still recommend that i not fuse it??? if i should fuse it, closer to the battery or alt?

    I think the factory charging wire from the alt. passes throught the fusebox.

    My factory wire does not go to the fusebox from the alt. It goes directly to the + of the battery. But, it is a distance away(around 3 feet). My alt is in the front lower left, while my battery is on the right upper rear side of my engine compartment.

  4. I wanna go ahead and do the big 3 on my car some time soon(long overdue). I know i wanna fuse between the alternator + and the battery +. Is it best to fuse closer to the alternator + or the battery +????

    If the alternator is constantly producing current should i fuse closer to the alternator? But then again the battery holds a constant charge so why not fuse closer to the battery??

    I am just confused about the whole thing... If anyone could explain and set it straight that would be super spiffy. :-[

  5. If you didnt already know this is one way to build a box from the inside out..get some 2 x 2 and lots of glue/screws.  I used Gorilla Glue for most of this portion of the project.  When i rean out i went with the Titebond II in other areas

    i have 2 questions (maybe stupid) about building a wall this way..

    1. What other way could you build a wall from the inside out?? using "L" brackets or something?

    2. If you have 2x2's all along the joints on the inside, do you have to make all the walls on the inside thicker to make everything even (like meade did by sandwiching sheetrock)?

    to answer your questions:

    1. I personally wouldnt use L brackets to do this.  Maybe angle iron or something that would be continuous but not L brackets where you would have to have them a few inches apart.  You would end up with so many brackets it would be a mess. Im sure you could make it work but to me its not an ideal way to go.

    2.  You dont have to make it all even, i did a lot of stuff to this box i didnt "have to" do.  Im always in the pursuit of that last 1/2 db and whether or not the things i do help or hurt im not always sure.  You can DEFINITLY build you a wall like i did and call it done with the 2x2's just like you see in the pics.  Ive done many like that whether it was a wall or a box built into the trunk and ive always had good luck with them.

    thanks for the response meade, i know your a busy man, i appreciate it!!! :^

  6. If you didnt already know this is one way to build a box from the inside out..get some 2 x 2 and lots of glue/screws.  I used Gorilla Glue for most of this portion of the project.  When i rean out i went with the Titebond II in other areas

    DSC06290.jpg

    DSC06285.jpg

    i have 2 questions (maybe stupid) about building a wall this way..

    1. What other way could you build a wall from the inside out?? using "L" brackets or something?

    2. If you have 2x2's all along the joints on the inside, do you have to make all the walls on the inside thicker to make everything even (like meade did by sandwiching sheetrock)?

  7. CIMG1809.jpg

    CIMG1810.jpg

    CIMG1811.jpg

    CIMG1812.jpg

    I bought this RMS Digital Multimeter, including a tempature probe, from Radioshack a couple of months ago. Here is the link if you wanna check it out http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=search Never opened it, never used it, never even seen battery life. One week after purchasing this, I received a different DMM as a gift from a friend. I bought it for $95.84 including tax ($89.99 w/o tax). If you wanna buy it, I will sell it for $70.00 plus shipping.... let me know if any of you are interested. Thanks! :^

  8. yup ive been readin it for years.  I dont have a subscription though.  I was in the damn thing and i didnt get a subscription, talk about lazy.  :D

    ^^^LOL ;D

    It's a pretty good magazine. They usually have little sections in it on how to do some sort of fabrication. They also give good reviews on more common name brand goods. $15 for a year subscription, i don't think you could go wrong...

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