Jump to content

dmz2711

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    355

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by dmz2711

  4. Big air ride question i need to know this can anyone help? Meade?

    in Air Ride / Hydraulics - Got Switches? Want Switches? Post here!

    Posted

    with a normal air suspension set up, the air bags/air sturts do not automatically refill themselves. The reason that struts are "more comfortable" is because they are able to expand when going over a pot hole or whatever may be in or on the road. Air cylinders are not able to expand because it is metal/steel. the struts on other hand, have rubber air bags on them, rubber = flexing and expanding. The newer stuff from air ride technologies is able to level out your ride at the set ride or pressure height, so if one of your struts loses or leaks some air, the computer will automatically refill it, leveling out your ride. The kit you are looking at has some small ass valves, i think 1/4". The bigger the valves the faster the air pumps and dumps, the quicker you can adjust your ride.

    As for the different ride heights over speed bumbs depends on how fast your switch finger is as well as how fast your system is. the quicker you switch the less air you allow into the strut, if you want to fill your struts up all the way and get to your max ride height you can sit your finger on the switch and let the strut completly fill. it all depends on how many how much control you want, you may want to only go front and back, or you may want to go front back side to side. I don't know to much about the new computerized leveling system, but with my air ride i was able to get my car pretty level just by seeing how much air pressure i have on the gauges. Although i did love to drive with the rear slammed on the floor, and the front in the sky. The looks i got from people were definently worthy of being a kodak moment. :^

    if there is anything else i missed or am wrong about, hopefully some one can correct me. goodluck with everything!!

  10. Pros and Cons on Airstruts and Cylinders

    in Air Ride / Hydraulics - Got Switches? Want Switches? Post here!

    Posted

    ok well i was wondering whats the advantages and disadvantages of cans vs. air sturts... i knopw meade said go with the air sturts i was just wondering what the advantages and disadvantages were..... also i go around alot of turns is there some kind of leveling system i can use that it will adapt itself to the road like springs would and go up and down by themselves.... cause id like to know which one would be easier on turns as well...

    i had air cylinders on my accord. the problem is, while they are efficent being nice and fast and can take high psi (in my case 180-200 psi), they cause my ride to be extremely bumpy and uncomfortable. The reason that struts might work better is because they use an airbag, which gives and flexes much more than a steel tube(cylinders). I don't know how much psi they can take but i have ridden in cars with air struts/air bags and the ride is much more comfortable than my ride with the cylinders. This is just my view on past experiences. Hope it helps, maybe someone could correct me if i am wrong. :^

  13. Custom High current, low resistance terminals

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Honestly, gold by itself is a horrible conductor, but if gold is how you want to go, try gold plating copper, thats just about the best conducter you can make. Only reason terminals, ext are gold plated, is  for corrosion resistance, and the copper for the actualy cunduction. Platinum is great, and chrome isnt great, but it works. Reason why I use brass, is because we used bras only bolts for a really highend subwoofer manufacturer I built for in the past, and when you have a $10,000-22,000 for just 1-12" sub and 1000wrms amp, and that company prefered brass over every other material for connecting points from the amp, to the sub, and silver enriched speaker, and sihnal wires, you gotta think of brass pretty highly, but go ahead, grab a volt meter, 3 matching bolts, try small ones, to get a better metering, like 3" long size 6 bolts, test with brass, stainless steel, and standard steel bolts. The brass will hold the lowest resistance. And a size 6 bolt, even that small will still be able to hold 440v, or 10,000 watts across it, before a circuit breaker pops, or amp frys

    And yeah, T-nuts is the way to go, epoxy those bad boys in place, and even wax the threads on the bolts, for a frame like a 18"  Id go with 1/4-20 tnuts, or 5/16" before the back side of the t-nut starts gets in the way of mounting the woofer.

    so i should use some kind of epoxy to attach it to the wood, and then when you say wax the threads on the bolts, what do you mean? what is the purpose behind waxing?? also what kind of wax?? one comment said to use loctite, is that what you would recommend??:-[

  14. Custom High current, low resistance terminals

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/forums/in...828.0;topicseen

    thats also where steve said he used just a steel bolt with ZERO resistance. brass isnt also the lowest resistance metal around. take a look at the terminals on amps, caps, battery terminals. they all use silver, gold, platinum, lead and other things. just my 2 cents.

    that is true, i see your point, but are there gold or silver bolts available??? i know that in a hardware store like homedepot they don't sell them, but who knows, they might have them in some kind of specialty store... plus you could always take it to a jewler and see if they could plate some bolts..

  15. Custom High current, low resistance terminals

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    AWSOME!!! thanks for sharing that idea. i have a quick question, what do you recommend using to fasten some high powered subs, such as a btl, mt, solo x, etc... I used some drywall screws on my box, but i heard that if you ever try to switch out the subs the drywall screws will easily strip the mdf... do you recommend some kind of heavy duty threaded t-nut, or what???

    once again thanks for sharing that idea!!! :^

  17. best ground???

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    lol well the best ground is on the batt terminal bc its resistance is something like .00001 ohms (dont memmer the amount of 0s but its more then 2). since this is usually alot lower then the chassis of the vehicle its "better" but you also have to consider the resistance of the wire and the overall length of the path to the batt neg. so depending on what your doign the chassis may end up with a lower resistance level (but it really depends on the car you have and the material the frame is made from, and if its a unibody type thing (bad for ground) so overall both is the best bet and its pretty much nessicary on high end systems. so if your really anal about this then test your frame ground and see what it shows (you meter will need to go below 0 ohms to be effective)

    how do i test the resistance of my chasis??? where do i put the positive and negative probes??? thanks...

×
×
  • Create New...