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MONSONwarrior

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Posts posted by MONSONwarrior

  1. Those amps make great power below .25 as well .... Even the original M3s.

    I'd throw another M3a in there if youre wanting numbers though.

    It's gonna get replaced with probably a BC5500. I've just got other things to worry about right now. I was testing and I cracked the windshield. Instead of the mirror breaking off it cracked the whole thing, spidered where the mirror meets the glass with a big crack from top to bottom right through the middle of the glass.

  2. Well, dropped the M3a to .25 ohm today and she just gets a little protecty on a hot summer day and running full tilt music. but here's the testing results:

    147.2 @ 42hz

    145.2 @ 32hz

    Street Beat 145.1 dropping to 12.1v at the lowest.

    So I'm pretty pleased with the increases. And as far as voltage goes, dropping to 12.1v is because in SB you can't rev the engine so that's straight battery power holding it for 30sec. This just kinda shows me I need a bigger amp in the long run because I don't really wanna do .25 all the time, but for now I'm keeping it wired that way and turning down the sub control on the HU until it's comp time.

  3. Over the last month I've been tearing down from my DC XL and building up to my current build. The goal was street beat/bass race but I was hoping for so decent burp numbers. I waited until it was all done to do my build log and forgot some pics along the way but I'll start it with the equipment list.

    Pioneer AVIC-U310BT

    Eclipse SC6500

    Massive Audio NX2

    2 Pos & 2 Neg Knu KCA

    DB Electrical 250a alt

    XS D3100 & D3400

    (2) Fi BTL N2 12"

    DD M3a

    4.4 cubes tuned to 34hz made from birch.

    Now to the pictures.

    IMAG0200.jpg

    IMAG0205.jpg

    IMAG0291.jpg

  4. :peepwall: active means ur going to have to have a sound processor of some sort a rf 360.2 or audison unit just the radio doesnt make it active unlesss u have something like the new pioneer or a alpine 9886 and depending on how you are running your setup ur going to need 1 more amp...

    Would I need something like an RF 2sixty.1?

  5. I kinda wanna go active for greater control and was thinking I could maybe do it with the AQ4x90, I'm going to be buying a 2200d so it'd be nice to have matching amps. I was looking at all of the controls and it looks possible but would like another opinion. It'll eventually be active on a pair of CDT-61T. The only thing I may have a problem with is my HU is only a 3 band EQ, any thoughts on that? I don't really know all that much about what I need to go active, just how to control the different crossovers.

    here's the amp: Audioque: Amps: AQ4X90

    here's the speakers: CL-61T - CDT Audio Classic 6.5" 2-Way Component Speakers

    here's the HU: Jensen VM9223 DVD receiver at Crutchfield.com

  6. alright thanks man this helps alot! :) yea the thing behing my seats by the window is the baffle, or its what i call it bc speakers are mounted there.. it flexes like no other.. and how much would all this sound deadner cost?

    The general rule is a trunk kit is 20 sq. ft. and that's about eighty bucks. Look at Audio Wrap, you can get 62.5 sq. ft. for just under 200 and it's great stuff. I have about eighty sq. ft. in my car and it works amazing.

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