casemods
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Posts posted by casemods
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Oh man...
I put some 2-way's in the dash (4x6) and they made a hell of a difference. Dad has same size in his truck, and his sounds like crap compared to mine.
If you get 2-ways they do sound a lot better if you are replacing the stock mids.
They sound 10 times better if you put them on an amp though.
Here is my rating:
Stock: 3
2-ways to replace the mids: 6
Amp on the 2-ways: 9
Not sure about tweeters by themselves though.
You shouldn't need that level until the bass is above 1,000w rms?
Also yes on the 700w amp on a 500w sub
make sure the ohms match
Turn the gain all teh way down, turn the volume to max, then slowly adjust the gain on the sub. As soon as it starts to distort, turn it back down a little and maybe even go a little extra for safety
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I didn't know steve meade designs made headlights lol
I don't know what it stands for but this is what I put in the license plate.
There are several types.
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Just wondering if I could bag my jimmy
it's 4 wheel drive and I'm not looking to lower it, just wanted to be able to change the stiffness. my dad put air shocks in the rear of his truck for when he has loads
also wondering if I could lower the suspension this way safely if I let all the air out?
What about raising it all the way?
Hopping?
you contradicted yourself like 3 times lol do you want to lower it with bags or do you want the bags to help out leveling your truck when you have a load? if you inflate the bags you should go up around 2-3 inches depending on what bags you have, but when you deflate them you'll go back to your stock height.
if your wanting some help with a load (stereo weight) then just bag the rear end, it shouldnt be too hard, but if your wanting to slam your truck on the ground with some bags, then sell the truck to someone who could use the 4wd and buy a 2wd lol 4wd is pointless when your 1/4 inch off the ground. lol
(all of this is imo)
is this what your asking?
Well I was looking to know more if it's safe with 4 wheel drive, to lower or raise the suspension like that..but I guess since the shocks travel that far anyway it wouldn't matter?
Would the bags pop?
Could I have my choice of 2-3 inches lower or higher than where it's at now?
Is there a safe range to lower/raise, with or without airbags?
My main priority is safety and having airbags for the sake of having airbags I guess...it's just a thought mostly
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Just wondering if I could bag my jimmy
it's 4 wheel drive and I'm not looking to lower it, just wanted to be able to change the stiffness. my dad put air shocks in the rear of his truck for when he has loads
also wondering if I could lower the suspension this way safely if I let all the air out?
What about raising it all the way?
Hopping?
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Has anyone tried LED/SMD's for headlights or DLR's? (daytime running lights)
I have my interior completely SMD'd out (waiting for the positionable button lights on the top console to ship from hong kong - 2 for $2 shipped on ebay)
I wanted to do a low wattage/white color/longer lasting/more visibility upgrade to the entire car.
I would like something as bright (I don't want the headlights as bright as I see other people with them that blind you when you drive by them)
I also don't want them blue (cool white) or yellow (warm white) I want them pure/natural white.
The LED's/SMD's for headlights/tail lights are pretty expensive as it is, but I'm sure I could find an ebay listing that would allow me to take them back.
Just wondering if anyone has tried LED or SMD for headlights/daytime running lights or if I should just get HID's...
I use http://www.superbrightleds.com and you can find what bulbs your car takes here http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/LampReplacementGuide/
My dad wanted me to do his truck after he saw them in the jimmy
Here are some pics of the interior for fun
Note that these were taken with only the front dome light. It's even better with the cargo light in.
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when I broke the hazard switch while installing a deck, I just removed the fuse for till the lights stopped blinking. I didn't realize the brake lights did not work.
If you haven't tried already, take fuses out and check for popped ones
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Off topic: so HID's are just bulbs you switch out like LED bulbs for the brake lights and interior? How much do they run usually?
On topic: How much is a new headlight? I think the last time I got one was for my 89 s-15 and it was $8 and was super clear and clean.
Might want to just get a new one and polish it when you notice it start to get dirty (or once a week/month)
I had some of that stuff (don't know the name but it was orange colored with a white flip open top)
It hurt my hand because I was rubbing it so long, but I never thought of using a drill bit + pad to make it go faster.
Try that first, then if it doesn't work, just get a new head light if they are cheap enough.
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You're gonna need 500 to 1000 watts minimum.
I have 500w 12w3 and I can feel it maybe 10 feet away but it's not that noticeable.
Plus you have to take into consideration the position of the box in the car and the cars sound waves or something like that.
Ever notice how you can feel the bass from the front of the car, but once the car passes, it's almost silent? This is mostly the case with SUV's though.
I would just get as many watts as possible for your budget and get at LEAST a 12. 15 would be recommended for what you want and an 18 would be best.
I hope you don't let the bass over power the highs for that super lame "ghetto bass" I've seen on some really shitty cars.
Most people just slap in 1000+ watts of bass and turn the gain and bass boost all the way up, but neglect the highs (mids aren't really that important)
I power 4 2-ways on the head unit but I turned the gain on the sub amp to half and the bass boost all the way down so that it's just barely a little louder than the highs.
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One question would running a 4 ch amp to power the mids and highs front and rear be a good idea?
Of coarse. As long as each speaker get's one channel from the amp, that sounds like the best thing to do.
Make sure the amp is more than the rated RMS of the speakers. I wouldn't suggest running a 50w RMS amp on 50w RMS highs or mids if you plan to turn them up all the way. Putting full load on an amp isn't something I would do. Maybe only turn it up 100% if you demo it or if you're drunk/buzzed (for some reason, when I'm drunk/buzzed the music is so much better and HAS to be turned up all the way)
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was this over red and blue?
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Thats great info guys, i appreciate that. I am looking for more of a SQ set up rather than a SPL set up. Think I will eventually upgrade my head unit, I just got this one cause it was cheap and I need music in my car. Specially driving an hour each way to work. I know for the front stage I'll be going with a componet set but I don't know about the rear yet. All the work will be done by me, I can't afford to let a shop do it for me. Besides that, how else would I learn if someone did it for me?
For the hands on stuff, just by watching them do it.
I was at a stop when I couldn't figure out where to run the power wire.
It literally took them 10 minutes to find it and run it to the point where I could finish it.
So I guess my advice for running the power wire yourself would be to run a test wire and drive the car. Then take that wire and see what condition it's in.
But yeah, doing the stuff yourself is a good idea.
You can ask the guys at the car audio shop if you can watch them install stuff. It's really simple stuff most of the time and only takes a couple guesses (removing door panels, taking the dash apart, etc)
Youtube has some vids usually of people taking their car apart.
Edit: don't half-ass it. And don't be violent. Take your time on your own car or you could damage it. Be patient
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The only way you save money building yourself is if you buy used parts for a lot less than they are new or find some bitchin deals/sale
I'll have to disagree on that, the friend that bought from ibuypower had a EVGA 780i,x29800GTX,Thermaltake 850w,500gb hitachi and thermaltake case.
He could have saved $300 dollars buying each one of those instead of buying it from a site.
Yeah I guess you're right. I'm used to frys having bitchin deals on everything, even pre builts.
A lot of pre builts are severely marked up (apple for one)
Frys had a $600 orange pre built 6 core tower for $600 something on financing. 6 cores are still $200-$300 +
Yeah I don't know where I'm going with this, but if the prices match, I would go with pre-built with warranty.
"he bought it 2 years ago when all the stuff was released"
So was it marked up or was that the average price of each component at the time? A little markup is ok. $300 is obviously not!
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Frys has some awesome deals for financing
I suggest pre-builts, even as a guy that built his own.
You can get an extended warranty and all you have to do is stop a fan and it over heats and voila you have a brand new computer and can probably extend the warranty another 1-5 years.
Not only that but you get free tech support.
The only way you save money building yourself is if you buy used parts for a lot less than they are new or find some bitchin deals/sale
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man no one has anything to say for a newbie?
Start simple. You dont absolutely have to power your mids and highs with an amp. Invest that money into a better sub/mono amp/enclosure instead.
I only agree with this if the bass does not overpower the highs.
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First: take care of the wiring in the car.
Get "the big 3" first thing. This includes upgrading the size of the wire of the alternator to battery, battery ground to chassis, and engine to chassis. I wish I did, now it's causing problems because I didn't.
Run a 0awg or so power wire to wherever you plan to put the amps. Then split that into 2 or 4 smaller awg. This gives you room to expand down the road for multiple amps.
Get a head unit that suits your needs. I personally am happy with a 3.5mm input and amp pre-out but you might want more.
Don't have ghetto bass. I would take care of the highs first. You get sound quality with or without bass.
Don't run the power wire next to any other wires, other than other power wires such as the remote wire. If you do, it can cause interference.
If your car is not a show car, I wouldn't get more than you can properly handle on one battery, or go with high end brands. It just looks stupid. It's like putting a $5,000 entertainment system in a crackhouse. If your car is ghetto, go with lower brands. Get a better car first, why are you even spending money on car audio when the car sucks to begin with?
"don't by an $85,000 car before you buy a house" - E-40
Also, if you are going to have any work done, research first. The guys who ran my power wire did a terrible job. Ran the power wire next to the RCA, didn't even sand the area for the ground, and some other bullshit...
Oh yeah, and try to get twice the power needed in the amp. If you're running a 1000w rms sub on a 1000w RMS amp, it's going to be used 100%. So a 2000w amp would only be half load. Of coarse you just don't turn it up all the way. Turn the gain down to half at least...
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No, I'm not treating it like a volume knob. The 2-ways are already loud enough and the sub isn't that powerful so I'm probably just going to try to get the same volume that the head unit does. I think it will be fine since the quality will be a lot better since it's running on the amp.
I'll have to take the glove box apart and see what I have to work with.
And I never turn the heater on. I was driving around 30F with the windows cracked the other night.
you're crazy, arnt you from california? your supposed to be bitching about the cold.
Yeah I heard something about the humidity or something. It must have been low. Because another night it was the same temp and my hands almost froze putting air in the tire at the gas station. Could be the wind too...windchill factor. I had a sweatshirt and a snowboard jacket on, plus the car shields you from the wind.
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yes you can do it. ive seen a car where he had all the amps and processor in the dash. works just fine. a tight space isnt much of a problem for heat, just work out a cooling system. a simple fan to keep air moving over the heat sink. use a large fan, around 4", that is very quiet, CFM rating wont matter. and dont just stick the fan to the amp
So how should I put the fan on it?
I have a bunch of 120mm fans from my computer (over 10 unused)
Also the amp is only 40x4. I don't think it would get that hot. The amp has 2 lpf and 2 hpf so I can only hook up 2 highs, I don't care for mids since I have 2-ways.
So really this amp would only be pushing 2x40w rms on probably half gain and it's rated for 4x40w rms. it shouldn't get that hot. if it gets too hot, wouldn't it just shut down?
It's also really cold out right now...around 20f
is it 20* in the car while you drive around or do you turn the heater on and get the car to a normal temp? and winter wont last forever. hope you get my point.
by "half gain" i hope you are not treating it like a volume knob. all the way up isnt like "max power" and half way isnt half power.
how would i do it? well you need air coming in and out of the area. so if you have a 5" fan then you need another 5" opening at the opposite end of the amp from the fan. you also want the surface area of the fan in front and behind the fan for it can breathe. otherwise you might as well use a smaller fan.
a 5" fan would be serious overkill for cooling and probably hard to mount. a 3" fan or two 2" fans in a push/pull combination would work well. and if the two 2" fans are too loud you could wire them in series to make them run slower.
No, I'm not treating it like a volume knob. The 2-ways are already loud enough and the sub isn't that powerful so I'm probably just going to try to get the same volume that the head unit does. I think it will be fine since the quality will be a lot better since it's running on the amp.
I'll have to take the glove box apart and see what I have to work with.
And I never turn the heater on. I was driving around 30F with the windows cracked the other night.
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yes you can do it. ive seen a car where he had all the amps and processor in the dash. works just fine. a tight space isnt much of a problem for heat, just work out a cooling system. a simple fan to keep air moving over the heat sink. use a large fan, around 4", that is very quiet, CFM rating wont matter. and dont just stick the fan to the amp
So how should I put the fan on it?
I have a bunch of 120mm fans from my computer (over 10 unused)
Also the amp is only 40x4. I don't think it would get that hot. The amp has 2 lpf and 2 hpf so I can only hook up 2 highs, I don't care for mids since I have 2-ways.
So really this amp would only be pushing 2x40w rms on probably half gain and it's rated for 4x40w rms. it shouldn't get that hot. if it gets too hot, wouldn't it just shut down?
It's also really cold out right now...around 20f
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Need to hook up the dash/door 2-ways to an amp
Could I gut the glove box and install the amp there?
This would save a ton on wiring.
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Get some 1/0 or 2/0 wire, solder some terminals to it, and then do the 'big 3'
1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine
So just basically replace the existing wires with bigger ones and make sure the connections are secure?
What is the "chassis to engine" all about? I understand the first 2.
Another way to make a good ground to put it simply is make sure that your area that you are grounded to is completely sanded and make sure that the wire is not loose inside the terminal ring on the end and make sure its tight when you screw it down
I scraped the paint away with a screw driver and a knife. So it's more than just sanded, it should be raw (is this better or worse?
They just simply put 2 short screws into the body of the car (beneath the seats, metal was the same color as the silver on the outside of the car, I assume this is the body and not the frame)
Could be a ground loop or your signal cables are too close to power wires which would explain the engine noise. You need to ground it to some bare metal and not to something painted (sand the surface) and I like to use the bolts on the seats because they generally are attached to a nice solid frame
I have the remote, RCA, and power wires ran down the drivers side panel...so this seems likely. There is a small hole on the passenger side but I have no idea how to get a wire from the batter into it. Is there somewhere I can look up this kind of thing for my vehicle?
It sounds to me like you have a burnt ground trace in the radio. What can happen is if your ground is weak for your amp it will seek ground from somewhere else like trough the ground on the rca and will burn a trace in the radio. So either have the radio checked out or try grounding the negative side of your rca and see if that fixes it.I have seen this before.
If I disconnect the RCA cables from the amp, and it still flexes when I hit the brakes, would that eliminate the possibility of it being the head unit?
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The dash speaker in my car get this brown stuff on them but I think it's excess cutout from the dash.
A better camera would be great so that we could see what it is.
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Bad ground.
How do I make a good ground?
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$1,200 + to lift just the front last time I checked
get a different vehicle, trust me....
worst rollover rate and you want to lift it? i hope your widening the wheelbase...
seriously this is a soccer moms SUV
get something with a straight axle
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Do you think going from the normal amp out to the sub out would really make that much of a difference? Btw, I know for a fact his wasnt on the sub out but Id be willing to do it of course.
I'm pretty sure the only difference is the head unit control for the sub.
Other than than that, the amp takes a signal from anything you hook up to it and if you notice, it has a frequency range which also picks up voices if you set it high enough
I had my amp hooked up to the rear outs and now it's on the sub out. sounds the same.
tl;dr if your head unit has sub control you're going to want it on the sub pre-out. heck, just hook it up right...
Air bags for a 4x4?
in Air Ride / Hydraulics - Got Switches? Want Switches? Post here!
Posted
What is the difference?