truckramrod
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Posts posted by truckramrod
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Well I'm committed. I unbolted my right rear jumpseat and cut/broke the plastic at the base of the jumpseat/C pillar. I have a few pics to put up.
I just have to drive the truck to work and use a cut off wheel to cut the brace on the jump seat because I accidentally ran the power and ground wires through the seat frame when installing it.
Traks
Do you have your Aux battery mounted down?
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Im sure he will be on a little later. But in case he doesn't see this, the 3500 is still for sale and what did u want to know about the box? Im the guy with the red ranger that was next to him.
Ah yeah. You had the 15s and the 9K? Your setup was nice too.
Also Traks are where is/was your jack located? Mine was in the center of the back wall and I did cut it out. Is that what the guy is talking about?
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Hey man!
We met at the Slamology show, you demoed your system for my friend and I. I had the red Sonoma that I'm planning to build up. I see that you have the Sundown 3500d up for sale. I'd like to get some specs from your box. Thanks for your advice.
Kevin
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Great song, but the only copies I've heard the bass wasn't that strong due to poor recording or source material.
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a good instrumental wasted
No doubt, that song is garbage, good beat or not.
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all right i have a 1986 monte carlo ss ford 9 inch rear t56 6 speed and 540 hp ls3.
i have gbodyparts.com lower a-arms rear i have adjustable lower and upper tubular control arms.
i am wanting a air ride suspension turn the key goes to ride height etc this is a street car so it needs the performance advantage of a quality system.
i would still like the option to be able to play front/backside 2 side.
i was looking at this kit http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/78-88-GM-G-...1QQcmdZViewItem
it gave me an idea of what i need all work will be done by myself.
i will need a controller to automatically bring it to ride height correct.
i will pay 30 or so bucks if someone can put me together a performance oriented list of parts i would like to stay around 1000-1300.
cars weight is about 3800 pounds
we need pics of the car! This may sound silly, but you should check out www.s10forum.com There are a lot of airbag experts there and the front suspension of your car is VERY similar (if not identical) to the front suspension of a S-series truck.
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Cheayah!they can say "even when i'm constipated i still shit on niggas" on tv, right?
Seriously though, my buddy and I say that to each other at random times in normal serious tones. LOL
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haha thats funny, u should do more vids like that lol and usually at stop lights i turn it down but when i do crank it ppl usually turn there head and stare and try and drive off quickly and get away from me as possible...
That was bad! Ever get any bad reactions from people?
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Cool, I'll be your friend!
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don't worry mang! We're gonna hook it up proper! amped comps in the front.
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Damn thats nice even though its a pretty simple design! I have a 15 of that same model but it is clapped out. I emailed TC Sounds to have them recone it with a SVC 4 ohm coil instead of the original SVC 8 ohm coil, but they never contacted me back.
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MTX recommends 6.75-7.5 cubes for 3 of those ported. You have 7.4 roughly. So if you cut the box and add a big port or 2 you will decrease air space. Do you have pics of your setup?
I would say you could use 2 6" PVC tubes about 18" long that will tune the enclosure somewhere close to 30 hz. You should have about 6.9-7.0 cubes. If you mount the woofers inverted then you could gain a few tenths.
You could mount the ports internal, external or half-half to maximize airspace A bit of testing would be best with that.
20-25 hertz is too low of a tuning frequency for most people. You'd be surprised how peoples systems tuned to 33 or 35 hertz still play low and sound excellent.
It sounds like you are going to go from using a sealed box that is too large to a ported box that is on the smaller side of the specs. I think you will retain good SQ while getting the increase in SPL that you're looking for.
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Looks good, what amp do you have powering the sub?
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When I was driving my Sonoma, I'd respond with the truth which was 2 10s or 1 12. If you build the right box, you don't need lots of power or big subs to slam!
I had 2 RE10s on 400 wrms, then I switched them out for a 12w7 with 500 wrms. Both were ported, and I always got the thumbs up sign from people and also compliments/questions.
Now with my nissan, I get dirty looks and eye rolls. I guess 2 ported audiobahn 12s on 900 watts rms is loud but doesn't sound all that great when its trying to flex the trunk lid.
Don't anyone give me shit about the audiobahns, a friend let me borrow them and they don't sound half bad.
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http://www.crutchfield.com/S-81GlNBBkr5d/c...=700XMPIONE#Tab
I have this, which was taken out of a 04 Trailblazer trade in at dealership I work at. I am just wondering if anyone is interested and to give me an offer, as for shipping I'd say $8.
So let the offers begin!
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I've had trouble finding it, so if anyone could help me out, then let me know!
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What subs, what type of box and what amplifier are you using?
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IBTL-In Before The Lock
never knew what it meant, but it sure irritated the shit outta me.
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You won't see many people running those :^
Yeah because the price tripled.
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runflats do have stiffer sidewalls, but they typically come standard on cars that a more luxurious ride so it kinda evens that out. Corvettes have them and they do ride stiffly, but hell they are vettes that are meant to hug the road.
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OK lol make your questions easier to understandok say i ahve a lot of subs ok let say 15 subs would ported be louder or would sealed be louder
both walled
From what I see your question is which is louder? Ported or sealed= Ported is louder. :^
well 1 ported woofer will be louder than 1 sealed woofer with the same amount of power, most people say that 1 ported sub is roughly equal to 2 sealed with the same power,
If thats considered to be true, the you would need 8 woofers ported to be roughly equal or louder than 15 sealed.
typical tuning of a ported enclosure is 32 hz or higher with output falling sharply below 32 hz.
15 sealed 10s are going to reproduce 25 hz a lot better than 6 ported 10s tuned higher than 25 hz.
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Maybe we are talking about different things.
Whether the subs are wired "in-phase" or "out of phase" you will have the same amount of output UNLESS one speaker is out of phase with the other.
Woofers don't just flex out.
For instance, if you have a woofer moving at 10mm of cone travel, then the woofer is moving out from its rest position to 5mm of foward movment then it returns to its rest position and then goes rearward 5mm for a total of 10 mm of travel.
A woofer does this 20 times a second to produce a 20 hz note and 50 times a second to produce a 50 hz note and so on.
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Thats a great amp and a pretty good sub.
I upset a girl who had a ported 9500 12 powered by an 1501d in her grand cherokee, because my 12w7 kept up with her sub with only 600 watts rms.
They are capable subs though, they just need good power and enclosure! She had maybe 2.25 cubes net and it seemed choked for airspace.
Just research it before you build it and you'll be A-OK :^
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check and see if theyre flexing in or out
That doesn't really apply since the subs displace air in both directions and most of the time it is hard to see if the cone moves outward first before it begins the inward travel.
If you have the subs on different channels then move the balance all the way to one side, if the output increases than one of the speakers are out of phase.
a good idea to try is called boundary loading or more commonly down firing. You want the woofers about 3 inches off the floor. Use some doubled up 2X4s or some bricks around the edges of the box and be careful to ensure that the woofer cones don't hit the floor.
Indiana Bassheads!
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
I'm on the east side of Indy. Maybe a meet is in order?