Bass4Lyfe

KK so I FINALLLLY found the DAMNED protect/cutting out problem. For those of you that don't know, my amp was cutting out all the time. I know I have proper input voltage I know it is a 1 ohm load I know my RCAs aren't exceeding5 V etc etc so I loosened the speaker wires gonig into the t4k and that solved it! SUCH a relief to actually have bass when I have the stereo on and not cut out eveyr 5 seconds!!! 2) FIXED alternator belt slip, for the most part. 3) WILL be buying the second 3100 for the trunk very soon. Like, next week or less. THis means my system will FIANLLY be fully operatinal sry for th long wait fellows...

TTT

kk so i bought a y splitter and plugged it into my amp, no sound difference that I can tell but what do you gus think? i know physics says the voltage won't change, but should i be worried about current? like source current or anythin? lol noob q..

Ok, thanks for that information

the manual doesn't have anything about subwoofer RCAs.... hmm...

damn, i couldn't find it. i'm going to go look on alpines site for the manual and look in there for the setting, thx for all your help guys, i'ma try and get this resolved in the next 10 minutes...ill get back 2 u

tv settings?? okay ill go check that right now, one sec

bill no there are 2, that's what im saying, one of them, eitehr L or R, has gone out, that's the problem

ok, good point. maybe i should just do that ..... there isn't much on the Hu itself in terms of subwoofer rca control other than sub on/off and sub output 1-15

oh, hm. its a sub output but its like two rcas one whtie one red i'm guessing they get bridged inside the t4k so you're saying, bill, that i should only use the one that's working? So the input on the t4k has 2 sets of rcas, i only need to use one? sorry did that make sense?

is it possible for one (L or R not sure which one, its the white one) to go out on the HU? waht'd cause this? its so fustrating

Ok so was doing some testing on my car today and didn't get any voltage at all out of one of my (either L or R) sides of my RCA. I traced it out of the line driver and it's still having the problem coming out of the HU is there any "setting" that'd cause it other than balance which is in the center? HU is in the sig...

bump

anyone know? i heard its a good sum of $ just wanna see what you fellows think

As title states .... I have one, I want to sell it to buy another D3100, or part of one, anyone have an idea or WTB? I do not have pic yet with name/date because no camera now, that's why it's a feeler in GA right now, will move to correct section if anyone interested Thanks

Happy birthday bro, your woofers are kick ass

spent a couple hours removing the old belt, unhooking all batteries and put the new belt on the other pulleys, but couldn't get it to fit over the alternator ... going to have my dad help me 2morow hopefully we can gget it in

looks louddddd

great news i hope it does!! will try tomorrow if clear skies..

It's been raining nonstop here, so I have to wait for a minute of sunshine to slap it on ...

All the pulleys are stock other than the MECHMAN alt pulley.... i just drove and bought me a gator back! will see if it stops the noises ....

Thanks for that product link bro. It is not wrapped around the pulley that much, maybe 1/3 or so ... me and my dad have a plan to add an idler pulley to make it wrap more so do that and then get a gatorback, and tighten it a lot ... hmm whoever mentioned it why would sanding the other side of the belt help at all if it never touches the pulleys? thx for all the input guys..

I will start by saying that I have no experience with other brands, but that I will always buy MECHMAN because of his superior product, customer service, reputation, product performance, etc. and he's alsways kind and willing to help.

thx for the reply that added to ur problem - soap lubricates the belt which stops the nosie but INTENSIFIES the slipping, which is the exact opposote of what anyone wants.... any other ideas? thx tho!

and the belt is new...