andrew018018
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Posts posted by andrew018018
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i live in Europe and i had a bxi2010d shipped for $40 + duty from vminnovations...
I'm very happy with my amp and have had no problems, the only thing i dislike is that the power terminals are angled down
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It would probably be easier to have it rewound, as long as the gauge of the wire and its length are the same it will work the same
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Digital designs subs are very good for burping, which model you choose depends on your budget
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well i need more like 2400 at 2 ohms man. 600 rms per sub. 4 OA 15's
i could handle 750 rms a sub but still i dont like to push my luck haha
its safer to use a slightly more powerful amplifier since on a smaller amp you might turn the gain up too much since you would want to give your subs more power
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Try Hifonics colossus.. 3200 rms at 2 ohm and it does rated power
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_32990_Hifonics-Colossus.html
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if you have the space go ported, ask someone on here to design a box and you'll be sorted.. the type of box isnt going to blow your subs unless its way too big or it has way too much port area for the power... just make sure you're sending clean power
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IMO i think that box is too big, Re recommends about 1.25 cu ft.. i wouldn't go over 1.75 cu ft... and a 4" aeroport should give plenty of port area
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The cutout is in the right position (it should be the furthest away from the port)... i would go with one 4 inch port
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Quite a waste of money, but not may people can say the have a LEGO subwoofer box
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i hate the people who seem to look at an install and find the slightest imperfection and start bashing it, wdf man i would wish to see how perfect their installs are! I am the first one to say that i have thing i could have done better in my own install
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An original cd (not mp3)/ music downloaded from itunes ect in 320bit/sec sounds the best.. mp3 music has been compressed
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Why such a funky load after all is said and done?
Funky load? A load doesn't have to be a whole number or 1, 2 or 4 ohm.. as with the case of most 4channels is that they put out the most power at 2 ohms per channel, so i wanted to get as close as possible
This is how parallel impedance is worked out:
1/Rtotal = 1/Rmid1 + 1/Rmid2 + 1/(Rtweet1 + Rtweet2)
Rtotal = 1/ (1/8 + 1/8 + 1/(4+4) )= 2.66* ohm
Ohh wow I feel dumb, well sounds like you should go for it tbh.
You're not dumb, you just learnt something new
I think i'm just going try it out, but i still have about a week before my mids arrive so we'll see then :S -
Why such a funky load after all is said and done?
Funky load? A load doesn't have to be a whole number or 1, 2 or 4 ohm.. as with the case of most 4channels is that they put out the most power at 2 ohms per channel, so i wanted to get as close as possible
This is how parallel impedance is worked out:
1/Rtotal = 1/Rmid1 + 1/Rmid2 + 1/(Rtweet1 + Rtweet2)
Rtotal = 1/ (1/8 + 1/8 + 1/(4+4) )= 2.66* ohm
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[quote name=
Gem132' timestamp='1335944373' post='1997886]and i once farted a 181.1 -.- stupid people and there imaginations
In a CRX ?
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I think the first one is trolling, i doubt its a coincidence that his name is 'Alan Dante' the second one seems to know a bit, but still is major bullsh*t
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I dunno about the cap but why would you wire it into the speaker wire? Wouldn't it go inline with your amps power wire?
Capacitors inline with tweeter are used as highpass filters, they cut off at a certain frequency according to their capacitance
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You have 2 component sets ... why don't you use the passive crossovers that came with them ... then series the complete sets to a 8 ohm load for the 2 channel amp ???
or ... what final ohm load do you want the amp to see ??
My idea was to have a 2.6ohm load(actually it should end up being a bit less) on each of the front 2 channels of my 4channel so that i'll get about 80 watts a side,
that's the reason that i want the tweeters in series, i'm certain that the cap to will take the power and theoretically the circuit makes sense...
but i just want some advice from some experienced people
thank you for your reply
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possibly no-one knows?
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Pour some epoxy into the crack, that's what they use to glue these types of things together. Just don't forget to leave the epoxy a few days to set properly, it will take up to three weeks to fully cure
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just a note, they will be in parallel with two 6.5" 8ohm mid-range drivers
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Well i have 2 set of JBL tweeters that are 4 ohms each, and i have a bipolar crossover capacitor which handles quite a decent amount of power, can i wire both tweeters in series and then to one capacitor per pair?
like:
(+)---------------------(tweeter)-----------(tweeter)-----------(capacitor)-----------------(-)
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i wouldn't do it
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Most entry level, base model speakers are pitchy (bright), cause they have a fixed +/- for tweeter crossover. But you also need to take into account the staging and speaker placement.
Proper angling and placement can make even the cheapest speaker sound good. So its not just the quality of the product, but also the quality of the install.
Very true, his tweeters are very far forward on the dash, and its a big dash so they aren't right in your face, that's probably why they don't sound bright in his install, thanks for the informative reply
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Infinity is not sq LOL I hate infinity. They're way too bright.
i couldn't think of anything in his price range.. he was looking at $44 speakers at first so i thought Infinity would too far off.. do you find all Infinitys bright? i find my friends really well balanced, but i guess you're the expert hehe
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Gem132' timestamp='1335944373' post='1997886]
Amp that say 1800 or under but puts out more
in Amplifiers
Posted
He needs an amp for competition so it has to be rated below 1800w