crunkjuice1
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Posts posted by crunkjuice1
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Can you tell us some info on the regulator thats working out? Its sucks to have things like this happen but every little bit of info one can have is always a plus.
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Sorry to hear this but it seems as a on issue most likely you will have to send the unit back again after getting the ok from them. sucks to hear that but try to go over the whole install with Josh over the phone and explain whats going on then you can take the next step in fixing this once and for all. You may feel like your walking in circles but I'm pretty sure you will get it resolved.
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I have had this running for a few days now but I still have to clean up the wiring. I used the IDEAL brand terminal assortment in 10g to 12g (yellow plastic) from Lowes and the harbor freight crimper I got awhile back needless to say it looks worse than it is lol. I'll straighten it all out I promise!
Heres regulator
and heres the relay a bit up from regulator.
the red and black wires over the relay are the field and negative coming from the harness MM made for my setup going to the external regulator. I can close the hood and not smash anything which at the moment is what I most concerned with.
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Your setup might be totally different from mine but did the alt come with a wire harness that is only two wires that go to the regulator? field red negative black?
External regulator needs a relay with from what I used and others say connections in 8g and short as possible with good grounding of the regulator and relay grounds. I'm new to the external regulator setup myself and from the bit of talking with Josh over at MM the relay needs to be on a switched ignition source, in my case I have a voltage meter in dash that I use a actual switch to turn it off and on so thats where I used 12g speaker wire to the relays turn on point. Always charge the batteries prior to installing a alt, on the POT turn it all the way counter clockwise at start up turn your brights and AC on to create a load and rev the RPM's up a bit then while thats going on set the voltage to say 15.1 cold start if you are using AGM batteries.
Good luck hope I helped some what as I said I might be way off but these are things to look at.
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I called mechman and spoke to Josh because on my invoice it even said I was aware of light coming on. After setting it up no light has come on. From what he explained it will vary from car to car. I thought maybe because I used the OE power cable maybe that helped but not really sure. I used the IDEAL brand 20pk terminal assortment 12 - 10g (yellows) from lowes. Everything except the ignition turn on was done in 8g the turn on was done in 12g off a switch I use to turn my voltage meter off and on. This last part might bother some but I'm cool with it.
EDIT: fourth pic from last one up you can see the red and black wires that came with my setup. They go to the regulator field and NEG connections, the OE harness from truck is zip tied out the way.
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Bit the bullet the other day and went at installing this bad boy, Tensioner doesn't bottom out but still gonna try to get a belt maybe a half inch to an inch smaller. The regulator is over by the CAI filter and relay is up on firewall as well as the ground for relay. These pics show the alt fitment as this was what I was focused on at the time. The regulator voltage is solid even with a good 30 min drive voltage really doesn't change so I'm keeping it at 14.8v. Thanks again Mechman.
I had to use a drill bit to open up the OE positive cable terminal ring but I did keep that in the connection as well.
Only thing I can add is maybe its just the whole I have a new alt feeling but my truck seems to run alot calmer while driving around as it seems it doesn't have to put out as much effort to get to a certain speed. I have ACCEL COP's they say they are meant to give a better spark and it just might be that they are getting the power they need to right now.
Thanks
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just keep calling you will get through. This weekend will get in the way but monday let it rip.
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I have 8g Cadence speaker wire of various lengths I am going to try to keep the lengths short.
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AMI what are "signs" that I'm guessing you mean the regulator didn't like long runs with thin wire?
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I will text you monte if my wife is off in the weekend so I dont have to load up the truck with all my 10 kids lol. And you ae correct Mike its going into my 97 ford expedition.
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From the little I know its the voltage regulator and its adjustable from 14v up to 20v. Normally the regulator is built into a alternator but when its external like this I'm guessing it leaves more space in the alternator for more beefy parts and the regulator case design helps it stay cooler rather than it being inside the alternator where heat can and will affect performance. Thats what I think the point of going this route achieves but anyone see me saying something wrong please correct me.
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You got some 8g and some spade terminals? If so How much? Believe me I want it running also! I even have the relay just down the connectors and 8g Beavis
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I got this in yesterday, its a 250 max 200 idle exernally regulated alternator. Thanks again Mat, Mike, and Josh for all your help!!!!
Main thing that catches my eye is the large amounts of cooling this unit has. Hope you guys like the pics.
Oh Yeah Megatron tried to help hold the alt in place for the pic haha!
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Only thing else I can add is to be sure what your car idles at. I have seen cases where people buy an alt from whoever just to get a bit of bad luck with car idling right below the alt turn on speed.
If the electrical is your foundation to your audio system start from there and respect its limitations.
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Belt wrap is the amount of contact the belt has to the surface of the pulley. some cars have I higher percentage of wrap than others and that pretty much determines if your going to have a lot or a little slip. It doesn't matter if you have a new tensioner or a new belt thats tightened down beyond a normally torqued in belt. That belt will wear out and stretch over time and add to that when the alt begins to put a demand to make power it will slip.
All companies put some good amount of R&D into the units they sell but they all focus into different models at different times throughout the years. The bottom line is to understand if one company has what you need and the other one doesn't the decision process should be pretty straight forward, or its up to you to wait if they say " there will be one for your car in about 3 to 6 months " Maybe there will be something for you and maybe within that time frame it just wasn't safe or performance wise it just wasn't beneficial for the company and more importantly to you.
Good luck in which ever way you go but remember that belt slip happens when there's less belt contact to the pulley as everything is going as the engine is on. This video shows a good example of improving belt slip.
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I would assume the the actual amount of belt wrap on pulley is the main player with slip regardless of company.
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I am throwing a swing in the dark but I THINK it might be the stator amongst other things that allow for this increase across the RPM range.
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Maybe a new thread should be made to help everyone understand all the bells and whistles separating the new from the old. There's a youtube video showing the difference between iceman's white SMD alts compared to the older ones but I think that these are a bit more updated than those?
here is the link to Iceman's alts
Mechman alts have been aiming at beefing up the low idle output that we all like for some time now there are even youtube videos of Eric showing off certain units hitting 200rpm at idle I think even on his ford car but not under the SMD tag. They are very strong alts period but my honest opinion is people want to know exactly what they are paying for. We know you guys are busy but thats what it seems the masses is focused on.
Thanks for understanding.
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How do the 340a phase 6's compare to the 370a SMD's besides the obvious 30a gain? Beefier components? More power at idle?
Idle output is very impressive on the 370s. We were able to produce a whopping 200amps at only 500 RPM!!! Most of our ratings show amperage at 800RPM...so you can expect to have more, exponentially, as you increase RPMs. The 340s are solid alternators, but we also found the need for more cruising power for our clients and thus, by altering the internal connections we were able to tweak the product to produce even more POWER!!!
~Michael
P.S. These alternators are not readily available yet, to answer the question raised earlier, but are available for sale.
email me for more details about this latest and greatest alt from Mechman!
This is cool to see you explain it a little more Michael, although the alternator I will be seeing is a variation with such internals as well as being externally regulated is what makes it possible. These new setups are indeed strong alternators especially at idle and RPM's under the 1800 mark. From the little I was told the stator is very well built for these applications. Like I was asking on specs as well as Hunters asking about them I think its a normal question out of curiosity as what makes it all tick.
I am sure I will be pleased with my unit as well, as Matt worked well with my ford's belt wrap limitations, all I can say is that all you chevy guys have the opportunity to run some badass alternators that kill at idle as well as the rest of the RPM range
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Thanks for the link. Seems like you guys are going to or already have special SMD versions or various alternators that utilize SMD alternator internals. Keep up the great work.
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Give them a call for any and all your needs! I'm caught up Mechman on my needs I have to give a big shout out at Mike over at Mechman for his great patience and understanding over the phone, A+ customer service.
Thanks again.
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from what I've read you will need to put a diode on one of the sensors line. I think some one that installs alarms will chime in on your topic.
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S versions casing more durable for under hood applications and come with posts. The D series don't have posts and are really shouldn't be used under hood but people go against the grain and do it anyways. he S versions case is better suited to withstand heat better.
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where do I find specs on the alts?
Give them a call for any and all your needs! I'm caught up Mechman on my needs I have to give a big shout out at Mike over at Mechman for his great patience and understanding over the phone, A+ customer service.
Just ordered..
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