crunkjuice1
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Posts posted by crunkjuice1
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Love every bit of your build. Can't wait for the first videos of you bumpin out to it.
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I'm looking around the internet trying to track down a transponder bypass module for my 97 ford expedition. I have a viper 5901 installed and the TBM that I am leaning to is Xpresskit PKALL. The instructions I see show the TBM learning the key through the key cylinder but I don't see one of those bands that other TBM's have that wrap around the key cylinder. Will I have to buy that separately or the PKALL just doesn't need it? Thanks for your help.
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Did you DD1 your radio also? Clipped signal rolls down hill in the chain.
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if you really want to do it yourself get whatever glasspack/flowmaster/magnaflow/borla you want to use sawzall your OE muffler off remove the rest off exhaust after muffler off the hangers and just get some clamps and use red loctite on the nuts and threads. I after you cut the muffler off you can buy a 12 or 18 inch pipe to extend the cut pipe a little bit more to the back then add whichever muffler you get to that. Just get down there and think ahead take your time and make small cuts at a time rather than big ones that end up leaving you nothing to work with.
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I will add that the unit is where the factory tint brow is and that the driver window down a bit to show you guys this. The windows are tinted and it kind of lowers the visibility but regardless the light does its job.
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sorry kinda dark but hopefully you get the idea. its brighter in person.
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Sorry for the late reply. My 5901 was installed into my expedition, the original led fires into the cabin from over the rearview mirror but you can't really see it from the outside. This light has about 5 leds and its made in such a way that you can place it on the glass by the pillar or over the steering wheel on the glass. it is much more visable and the light bounces off the dash and if you put the visor down a bit off that too. i ended up cutting the last connection which was pointer but since I already had cut the random connection it stayed on random. If I want the original setting or to see the pointer effect I will have to buy another one or try to open this one a solder the two cut points in it.
just to help anyone else understand about the cut points I keep mentioning. when you look at the pic if you flip the main unit over to where the stickie pad goes on it to stick to glass there are two little openings one says random and the other says pointer. You can see a little piece of line similar to a fuse in each opening that with a razor you can "cut" or "break" the connection. Out the box the lights do a back and forth motion like KIT from nightrider. When I cut the random the lights blink random. So you have to make a choice keep it stock or pick one or the other to cut. Once you cut one of the lines you can't go back to original and you wont be able to see the next choice.
they are not that expensive and they really make your alarm warn away light unique. Good luck.
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Anyone that have this ever cut both random and pointer cut points on this unit. out the box it does back and forth I cut random and now I'm curious if it will still work if I cut the pointer cut point.
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The one in the middle looks exactly like the one that comes with the 5901, if its anything like that one I wouls say go for that one as long as it controls all the functions you should be good to go.
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shooting from the hip on this but I say $3000???
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You guys are on top of your game!!! I will give that a shot.
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Thanks guys. I had the alarm installed at best buy and they kept the manuals. I'll check the link out too, again thanks.
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I read another post saying most alarms noadays have the starter kill feature. My question is it something that the installer automatically connects? Is it part of the way the alarm naturally works? Is it the little on off toggle switch that comes with the 5901?
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I have a viper 5901 and I have always read people saying they are going to be adding two or three additional sensors. I told an installer that I already had a proximity sensor and I was thinkig of adding another shock sensor but he said I could only have one sensor. I am posting a pic of the input/output area on the main unit and I am asking for help from anyone that can name each connection spot from left to right in the picture.
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testing for function of each wire is example you need to find the turn signal wires, dome light, horn, ignition wires before they are hooked up so you know your in the right place. You can definatly skip on the remote start to save money. If I were you just save money longer and get it done somewhere.
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Thats cool as hell Steve. I like how I can see a very good example of a some what small box in a area where space can be an issue and still let the SMD shine.
keepin it real -
only thing I can add is very simple, follow the instructions they were written for a reason. Just like anything else people will try to skip a step here and there and then turn around and blame the DD-1 for their fuck ups.
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Where do you get at tensioner gauge tool??? Anybody have links to that???
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Those flipHD's are badass for the price! Thanks for sharing!
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whats your battery setup in the back? I assume if you have enough battery reserve for a 4ch and a mono block amp connect the power and grounds of each amp to the secondary battery/batteries.
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post this in the mechman section and see what they can do for you. Best bet is to just call them and see what if anything can be done for your car. 1-888-632-4626
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Thanks all the trucks locks work fine with the factory key fob the tailgate opens and locks along with everything else so that will also trigger the viper alarm just like any other door if opened the wrong way while alarm is armed?
keepin it real 
mechman alt problem.
in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories
Posted
Did you run ground from the alts negative stud directly to your battery negative? You should have. also its important to use the ring terminal supplied with the alt only on the post that it comes on for the best fit/contact of ring terminal to studs on alt. you shouldn't have had to replace wires simply add your 1/0 runs to the existing locations.
Does your alt come with a Adjustable voltage boost module? Is it supposed to be direct plug N play? Is your car PCM controlled or not?