K24_Powered_DC5
-
Posts
13 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by K24_Powered_DC5
-
-
Dunno for 4K though, i have 2 hatches my self and 2 coupes.
the head swap is really where i see a problem. the block is a d16y7 with the vtec head off an y8.
notice there isnt any mention of mileage.
I buy these all the time, 2800-3K max on the car, mods dont really add to the value because everyone like to build em different. ask him if the quarter panels have been worked on. they usualy rust pretty quick and im willing to bet they have had partial replacements welded or glued in.
Im in N.E. ohio too, ashtabula good luck,
-
some nice tools right there!
You just need to get a spiral upcut or downcut bit for your router, and you should be set!!
Hell yeah, I'm looking into getting a Freud downcut bit. I want a triple flute one, but the damn bit costs more than the router did, lol. I'll use my straight cut for now, but I don't have much faith in it. I've already broken a few 1/4 straight cut tool shop bits in the past.
Ive been using a 4 flute 1/4" end mill, its all carbide and its double ended. worked alot better than my straight flute. i have hours of cutting on it and seems to b as sharp as when i first used it. i think u can get through msd, or if you have a buddy that is into CNC.
-
before you build your box/glue it up you need to get some sandpaper with a reletivly low grit and you need to sand the first layer of where your going to glue or else your just going bond it to the first laminated layer
and yes you need clamps
and as a rule of thumb if your doing a big system or decently powered system you use screws
if you have a low powered system if you use glue you can use a brad nailer no problem
Thanks for the sand paper idea, i have some 80, 180, 240 laying around i was thinking 180 what do u think?
-
before you build your box/glue it up you need to get some sandpaper with a reletivly low grit and you need to sand the first layer of where your going to glue or else your just going bond it to the first laminated layer
and yes you need clamps
and as a rule of thumb if your doing a big system or decently powered system you use screws
if you have a low powered system if you use glue you can use a brad nailer no problem
Thanks everyone, been playing with car audio since the late 80's funny how ive learned so much just from this site.
current set up is 2 American Bass HD 15's and A.B. VFL400.1
that box is MDF 1.5" face, tuned to 30-31 hrtz(if i remeber right) i used liguid nails and pre drilled holes for 3" drywall screws.
it hits pretty good but i wanna build something different, i have 2 new JL 6"W3's and wanna build my first T line for them just to see how they sound.
P.S. Sorry for the thread jack
-
TitebondII ehh? Where can it be bought? Lowes maybe?
do you have to use clamps too? or a nail gun to hold it together while titebondII drys?
Does work good with the mdf?
-
How about 12 8" subs
cone area=602"
would be different
-
That box looks sweet!
Was wondering if at the beginning of the ports if it is smaller than rest like a choke point?
recovered stolen audio
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Posted
Sweet deal, i know how you feel my civic got broke into in january and they got my pioneer avic and my front end amp. I got it all back, see its a smaller town and i know a lot of people. took 2 days to find it. bought it back from a crack dealer( wow that was kinda freaky) but i didnt really pay for the stuff as much as i did they names and where they live i am a very patient guy, the crack dealer offered to take me the next time they called him so i could meet them, of coarse i passed. Didnt think i could "be cool"
ill catch up to them some day