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rickyfromthe407

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Posts posted by rickyfromthe407

  1. Not sure how to word this - Flush Mounted MDF Rings?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by rickyfromthe407

    Well i'll be damned if that isn't BRILLIANT!

    You just drill a 1/4" hole and drop that thing in and twist it? Then use the supplied hex head screws to screw sub into them?

    Or do you make the hole for these say 3/8" and squeeze it in there?

    Hmm. I am going to order a few packs of these up for a box build I will be doing soon.

    Thanks bro!

    EDIT: Reading reviews, you HAMMER it in under the sub, then screw in as you normally would. Logical.

  2. Not sure how to word this - Flush Mounted MDF Rings?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Hey guys quick question, might be missing a key part though..

    Being as its 4am, I couldnt make a video to describe what I am saying, by pointing it out.

    But as we all I am sure have noticed, screwing into MDF works good the first time... what if you need to remove the sub ONCE? or maybe twice? Hell maybe 3x...

    From my personal experience, after you remove the screw once..thats pretty much it for that hole, your not gonna get a good secure hold from that same screw hole again...just because of the composition of MDF id suppose...

    Now maybe I am doing something wrong...but I don't think so..

    So I came up with an idea...which some might all a little dumb..but I think it is quite smart, when flush mounting the subs, route out the ring maybe 1/8" - 1/4" deeper, and make an aluminum ( or similar metal ) ring and glue this down to the flush mounted ring, so you would be able to remove the screws from the metal and get a secure fit every time...

    Now not that I remove my subs often, I try to keep it to a minimum. But this is just something I was pondering while sitting here drawing up boxes on paper.

    I looked through a few pages of this section and couldnt find anything..mighta skipped over it.

    But what do you guys use if you remove your subs?

  3. 4 10"s Ported Design Help

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Alright, well the Poll is taking a while to get to 10 votes on one... =@

    & I havn't cast a vote for it..

    VOTE guys! and once once of them gets to 10, thats the design I will use...

    I have some pretty good ideas in mind... which would make a decent build log. Although this build will only be put in for a few months. Its gonna be clean as hell. With lots of pics..

    Also, anybody know what I should do with my current box? The 4 10"s sealed... Probably not the best box.. First box I ever made. But its SOLID as a rock. :shrug:

    I guess I could try to sell it? or scrap it and use it to make speaker rings... hmm. thats an idea that sounds like a winner to me...

    Either way - GET THE VOTES IN!

  4. Video Shows Nancy And Phillip Plotting To Capture Kids

    in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"

    Posted

    and that fucking bitch acted all innocent like she barely had any part in the kidnapping! they both need to be tied up and ripped in half by two horses or a couple big rigs......horror movie style.

    I like the "Couple Big Rigs....Horror movie style" idea. Cant remember what film that ones from...but iirc that one was quite disturbing.

    Sick bastards is all I can say about this one..

  5. 4 10"s Ported Design Help

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    I think I might be trying to ask too much from them..

    Keeping in mind net volume... it would want like 4.4-4.8cf after displacement... I am coming up with 4.5 net volume after .25 sub displacement - not including bracing or anything.

    With the dimensions of 14.5h x 30w x 25d

    Using 1 6" aero at 13" L ( i assume torres calc includes the aero port volume in the net )

  6. 4 10"s Ported Design Help

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    do your seats fold down?

    yes, I would more than likely have to drop the box in this way. Cuz I dont think I will be able to do it through the trunk

    Which is no big deal. seats drop with the pull of a lever. And removing driver/passenger seats is like 10 bolts. Had to do it when I was doing other work.

    I agree with ya though tonedeaf - I think slot ports look much better. But they also take up lot more room to get same output :/

    I am quite creative though. I can come up with a good looking aero if I must

  7. 4 10"s Ported Design Help

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Problem is the port will take a LOT of room in the box, so you may need to make the box a little bigger f you can to counter that. Id try for 60" of port probably. 4" of port and find the right port length to match your tuning.

    13h x 4w x 22L gives me 34.81hz and it takes another 5" length to get to 32hz...

    Might as well stick with the 34..

  8. 4 10"s Ported Design Help

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    i know a guy who goes by skip01 that has a design for 4 tens that would be applicable in your case i think. the design im talking about is shown in this vid.

    as for your specific dimensions, i used 14H x 30W x 25D, 1 6" aero port 13" long, and a driver displacement of .25 cubic feet. just as an idea...

    GOD DAMN that shit looks like it slammin :( I am pretty sure I could get pretty close to that off these though...Hell they sound good in the ported box I built for em. But I'd like to see how they do in ported :D

    I put in those dimensions. And liked it. Port facing the rear or cabin?

    I would change the port width to 4 and the length to 20, have the port facing the rear. Would give you a 35.17hz tuning which is still pretty low i would say, and a port area of 52 and 12.83 per ft.

    Sounds good... How do you think that would stack against the dimensions/port on the other post I quoted? Just wondering, cuz I was messing with it and came to a conclusion that a slot port was out of the question. But I wanna go with what will be the best :shrug: I really like that video though... but his is ported towards the cabin.

    Any special reason why u say toward rear?

    Hmmm...

    I wanna ask for someone to draw me something in sketchup - but I dont want them to be wasting their time and effort if I dont know whether to go slot or ported.... Gonna make a poll after I post this...first to 10 wins. LOL

  9. 4 10"s Ported Design Help

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    You're going to need quite a bit more port. I'd try for around 85 inches of port I think. Try bumping your port width to 3 and extendig your port lenth to around 32.

    :shrug: Widened it to 3" and extended it to 32" and it dropped my tuning to 26hz and Net Volume to 3.96 anddd only gave me a port area of 39in^2

    I dont know what I am doing...maybe demanding too much out of the little space I got?

    I just kinda figured since they want 2.4cf for 2 subs ported after displacement. It would be a doable, but tight fit

    Once again : :shrug:

  10. 4 10"s Ported Design Help

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    you have virtually no port area man. deff need to bring that up to at least above 12 sq inches per foot if using a slot port

    I am on my MacBook Pro right now, so I dont have access to the Torres calc.

    Maybe you could do it for me :good:

    Since I completely overlooked that in my design..guess I was just paying attention to the tuning more than the hz

    With my dimensions it is kinda hard though...since I havn't built too many boxes.

  11. 4 10"s Ported Design Help

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by rickyfromthe407

    Hey guys need a little help with box design ( more visualizing a concept if anybodys got time to draw something up in sketchup for me )

    Got 4 10"s Memphis M3s

    The max trunk space I have in my 1995 2dr Civic EX is 33w x 14.75h x 25d comes out to i think 5.3cf which might be a tad tight, but I should be able to fit it. ( dont wanna build the box in the car )

    Want a ported box, with all subs facing up - not sure which way to port it whether the port should be up facing or forward towards the back of the car or towards the cabin? ( what do you guys think? )

    Here is some images of the information sheets I got from memphis..

    First one is all the specs of the sub - mine is the second column M3104D

    Specs.jpg

    Second one is what they told em for enclosure recommendations ( they sent me a huge PDF for bout 20 subs, so I just screenshotted and copy/pasted what I need and made my own image ) I think the Optional tab is their form of recommended.

    boxdimensions.png

    And the third one is just some calculations I made with Torres Calc not 100% right specs but somewhere in the ballpark.

    4memphis10.png

    Anyways, to sum it up, what do you guys think would be best for the port firing direction?

    And - Anybody wanna draw me up a sketchup :D free if possible..

  18. Distortion Detector DD-1 ...teaser pic for those that purchased

    in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics

    Posted

    i asked this before but it wasnt answered...for people who use ipods only, can u just copy the cd to your ipod and use the dd-1 to set the gains by using the ipod??...or does it HAVE TO be with the test disc?..i ask because an ipod is usually louder than a cd and if u set your gains with a cd and then swap to an ipod, the gains wouldnt be set properly for that device, right??

    Fyerbyrd22 I think I can answer this one. But someone else please chime in if I am correct.

    I believe from what I could gather, the best method to use would be to use the most often used form. So if you used your ipod 99% of the time to listen to your music in your car, then rip the songs off the disk and put em on your ipod, and use your ipod to tune it, if you listen to CD's 99% of the time then use the CD to tune it.

    I gather that the CD is just to provide the exact clean, non clipped, tones for tuning.

    But someone feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

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