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rickyfromthe407

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Posts posted by rickyfromthe407

  1. What do you guys think about these:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Mini-99-9VDC-Blue-Digital-Panel-Meter-Voltmeter-Voltage-/170483294165?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b1989fd5#ht_4614wt_866

    550 sold, cant be too bad of a product!

    11$ shipped.

    Accuracy of ± 0.2%

    Although I have no idea what you would need to measure 99v with...unless you wanted to use it to do the "multimeter" way when tuning you gain...but even then, you wouldnt need 99...

    I think im going to buy up 2 of em..out of the 550 sold, any of you guys got one?

  2. Although Term-Lab is most common, Most Accurate etc..

    Assuming your not hitting the 140s or more. You can do a eBay search for a Decibel Meter...

    They obviously wont be 100% accurate, but they will be less than 50$ and will give you general idea...

    Here: http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=decibel+meter&_sacat=See-All-Categories

    first one is 25$ shipped - itll go up to 130db.

    Do you think your hitting the 130s?

    Thats the cheap way..Unless you got stacks for the TL!

    those are useless. i had two shallow pioneer 10"s and they maxed out the 130db meter.

    I guess it would depend what you are hitting. If your hitting 130 then it would max it out... Idk. I never bought one myself, considered it, but I know im hitting more than 130s so its useless to me..

  3. Those cheap ebay meters are pretty inaccurate, but it's pretty much the only option unless you want to drop a good amount of coin. Quality SPL meters usually aren't cheap..

    Right. I would say they would at best be +-5db at best to accurate.

    But if your just trying to get a general idea itll suffice. What I would do. Is tape it down to your dash or kick panel or where your trying to measure. So it DOESNT move. Then test reading with all different options ( ie: boxes, seats down, subs up, subs forward, port forward, visors moved, etc. ) the slightest difference in that meter could change a lot. So keeping it in the same spot will atleast give you a decent reading.

    But canderton is right - cheap, accurate spl meters wont be found easily.

  4. Although Term-Lab is most common, Most Accurate etc..

    Assuming your not hitting the 140s or more. You can do a eBay search for a Decibel Meter...

    They obviously wont be 100% accurate, but they will be less than 50$ and will give you general idea...

    Here: http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=decibel+meter&_sacat=See-All-Categories

    first one is 25$ shipped - itll go up to 130db.

    Do you think your hitting the 130s?

    Thats the cheap way..Unless you got stacks for the TL!

  5. Thank you both for clearing this up for me !! I find the 8th gen forums a little hard to find a decent answer...you guys helped big. Thank You !!

    Right now i am running 800RMS at 2ohm to one sub. I want to add 4 components, 6 tweeters, and dc subs. I am just trying to figure it all out power wise since id be adding another 2000-3000 watts. i was thinking HO alt from DC and a xs d3100 batt.

    Right now my headlights dim real bad so i only have my bass at half. but i am trying to learn more and more and plan it all out so i can make a new system.

    THanks again for the help!!

    Well with stock alternator say 75 amps. And 800rms being sucked from your subs amp, it's sucking atleast 75amps of current from your battery if it's a quality amp. You can pretty much say the car uses 50amps for lights electronics etc..leaving you with only 25amps for add-ons. Which is why your getting heavy dimming. In all honesty, I wouldn't even bother getting a H/O alt unless you just wanna say you have one. Especially if your considering picking up a d3100 you will be more than set with the d3100 in trunk ran (+ to +)(- to -) to the battery under the hood. But a d3100 with stock alt wired in 1/0 will leave you plenty of room to I would say at least double your power. It will be able to easily handle the mids/high and subs you stated. Shouldn't be a problem, if you notice excess voltage drop after adding the d3100 - then I would have a look on eBay. They have Civic alternators for about 150$ shipped that put out 130amps. Almost double your stock. That is more than enough. Unless you plan to upgrade to say 5kw RMS.

  6. I have a 2010 Honda Civic 1.8L...can I get a HO Alt or not..some of the civic forums are talking about staying with the fitzall alt and not going HO because the comp. and everything in the car can't take it.....I dont want to blow up my car with a HO Alt but I dont want to blow up my car by demanding too much power when it doesnt have it.... HELP?

    Hey there,

    You shouldn't have a problem with a high output alternator. The only reason anything could "blow up" would be if (a)the alternator shorted and sent out a ridiculous amount of amperage out. (B) you didnt properly fuse the alternator to the battery/is not grounded properly.

    But first, I ask, why do you want a H/O alt? What system are you running? I may be wrong, but my civic stock alternator is 75amps, so yours should be quite close between 75-100. Not sure on the new 2010s. But what type of system are you running? The stock alternator, with a decent battery up front (preferrably a deep cycle car audio battery like XS or Kinetik etc..) would be fine for a system I would say up to 2200-3000watts RMS depending on the battery. Stock battery, non deep cycle, I wouldnt test its capability. It could shorten the life of the battery by months. Also, if your not doing a huge system, why not just throw a decent size deep cycle car audio battery in the trunk? Benifits of doing so would be (a) Looks good if you do it right. (B) You can install an isolater, incase you leave your headlights on, the car wil still start using the battery in the back. © Your system will have a better, stable power source. (d) A battery can be switched between cars, especially a trunk battery setup, if anything were to happen to your civic engine, or damage occured to the car causing you to get a new one, an alternator is not as universal, unless of course you got another civic.

    Hope I helped, feel free to ask more questions and ill try to answer, or if anybody else has any input?

    Good luck !

  7. Hey guys whatsup.

    Hopefully you guys can help answer a quick question.

    I have a 1995 Honda Civic EX 2Dr Coupe yada yada.

    I have a D6500 currently in the trunk, but it is ran parallel with a 80$ walmart battery in the front. Not a deep cycle just a regular car battery.

    I am thinking about doing some upgrades to my system, which include bumping up to about 5,000 watts RMS

    The D6500 is supposed to be able to provide power for up to 3,000W as the main battery, or up to 4,000W as a supplement to an existing battery.

    So I figure I would get the biggest battery I can fit up front in the civic.

    What do you guys think would fit?

    I believe the battery type for my civic is 51R

    Thanks Guys!

  8. The more subs you add in the same enclosure the smaller the box can be. I'd do one large box myself.

    Correct, the only standstill is the only specs that Memphis provied is the box specs for 1 sub and 2 subs ported/vented, they dont give me the tuning specs of the box for 4 subs. or trust me, id do 4 subs one box one port! Haha Click this - Have a look.

    http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n204/ricky400082/box_dimensions.jpg

    Maybe you could come up with a design - But I know I cant... I think I am just going to make 2 boxes using a 5" port. But I am going to look around a little more, maybe start a new thread and see if I can find someone to figure out the best specs for a box thats like 5cf and give me the best tuning for the 4 memphis etc. Possibly see if there is a way I can get a box with a rectangle port tuned to the best specs to make em the loudest.

    I am going to get to building! TOMOROW!

    LOL. Well. Ill buy the materials tomorow ( or today ) i mean on sunday. It is late.

    CVX - Do you think i should make 2 boxes as we originally said, or should I just do one big one? but have the diveders and shit?

    2 Boxes would be easier... but what do you think boss?

    i'd say go with what's easier just because of the fact the one 3/4" sheet of mdf wouldn't make a whole hell of a lot of difference as far as tuning and volume goes. plus, more support! but either way i think you'll be fine. just give me a link to your build log! i expect plenty of pics!

    You'll get em!

  9. i guess my argument here is that if you're not competing and you're not metering it all the time, then to your ears it wouldn't make a whole hell of a lot of audible difference. maybe some, but not a lot.

    then again, maybe i'm just trying to save myself from redesigning it too :pardon:

    hhaha, I wont ask you to rebuild it 412 - I think I am going to start the build in the next couple of days with your design!

  10. the fewer number of ports you have usually ends up being a better box in the end

    50/50 I've seen aero's gain and I've seen slots gain. I don't think I have really seen anybody test the exact same port as round and square before but I would think it would be same or maybe .01db difference

    i think i believe it, but just how significant is it?

    you want everything to be common if possible. any thing that can restrict airflow or change it's direction all lowers your score

    Hmm. Well of course smaller # of ports would make the box build significantly easier. But I did get some pretty legit plans from my boy 412 CVX! Unless you guys know of someone who could build one with a rectangle port? the way me and 412 calculate, the tuning according to the sub specs would be impossible... HMM.

  11. it's going in the trunk of your car, ricky. it's going to be loud as fuuuuu regardless. i think it's just that the more ports you have the more times there's turbulence around the entrance, but i doubt it will be anything extremely significant

    at first i said "how the fuuuuu do you know my name..." smh then I realized. LOL agreed - The mojos in a ported box are and will be loud as fuu.

  12. Wait. You need 12 ports?

    3 per sub section. 4 subs. Its an interesting design. But I really like the idea. I can show you a build picture of it when I get the project rolling.

    412 CVX actually drew up the box designs for me! He does some kick ass work and had a good idea. The way he told me was basically the box size with the rectangle port at 36Hz wasnt gonna be possible, so he drew up some round ports. Looks good. 3 for each sub. Still not at 38 its at 38. But hey cant always get everything 100% I guess.

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