CUT BUDDY
-
Posts
426 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by CUT BUDDY
-
-
:censored: when the sig I had wasnt that much bigger than either one of ur sigs. It was just wider. do u think this one meets everyones likings? anyway nice amp accord
-
I like the old style better.
More Heatsink = Less heat.
Unless IA started using some really high efficiency FET's and what-not.
-
Your sig is WAY to big, jebus
yea im trying to edit it now
-
u lucky as hell. Thats the most Ive seen on a T2K. The BLs would be louder than the 1 BTL
-
I say between the 2....the Hifonics would produce more wattage. How clean of wattage, IDK. 10k watts wouldnt mean sh*t against 8k of clean watts. But like somebody before said, the Memphis isnt actually a 4k amp. @ 14.4v its more like 3600rms-3800rms. Id say go with 2-Atomic 5Ks....u'll be suprised that u can get 2 for the price of that Hifonics and get more watts and they are "much" more efficient and cleaner amps than any of the 2 choices u stated. Id say about 5-6 of those batteries would do the trick considering the alt power that u already have which is a plus (dual 250amp alts FTMFW!).
p.s.: I got my AT-5000.1D which does its rated 5K rms @ 12.5v straight from Randy who is the head Atomic US dealer. I got it BNIB direct from dealer for not that much more than what "somebody" (no naming names :01nocomment8so: ) on this site was selling T4Ks for; which does "close" to 5K @ 14.4v and they bought them refurbished and used them and still wanted almost as much as what I got my Atomic for. SMH! My Atomic does more watts @ 12.5V than what the T4K does @ 14.4v and.......nothing :01nocomment8so:. no doubt the T4K is a badass amp but why pay for a name
-
thanx but im kinda on a tight budget for this build and db-r has a refurb for 720 shipped ... an im gonna be barley able to swing that .but thats for the offer focalroack4life
dude
$750 for bnib '08 > $720 refurb ..............shipping cant be but so much
-
ok looking for something i dont have to buy...
dont know if u know this but this is America.....aint nothing free. U use to be able to hook the parking brake wire up to the ground wire but the manufactures got hip to it and made it so u cant do it anymore. Thats why they came out with these adaptor kits and switches.
-
automatically does it for u and its about $37
http://cgi.ebay.com/PIONEER-VIDEO-LOCK-BYP...id=p3286.c0.m14
this one is only about $6 but u have to do it manually everytime u want it to work.
http://cgi.ebay.com/PIONEER-VIDEO-BYPASS-L...id=p3286.c0.m14
me personally Id go with the first one even though its more. Its hassle free and if u think about it.......whats $30 bucks more
-
if it works and u can series or parallel ur subs to a 2ohm load then yea, go for it.
-
they need a strong electrical system...
will do about 4800w rms @2ohm at 14.4v
very reliable amps and are very durable
the vra is the newer model
I want more xfire amps
x252 that amp is extremely efficient and does its rated power @ 12.5v...........Good luck finding one. A good 200+amp alt and 2-3 big batteries would get it done. 1 up front and 2 in the back should keep ur voltage pretty high.
-
-
You can a 350z and tune it up and smoke a ferrari and pay less but people still buy ferrari.
against 2 BTLs :01nocomment8so: ok....just 1
surface area :hairtrick:
-
the cheapest i've seen a 18 is around 1500. LOL...u can get 2 btls ot 3 BLs and some front speakers and spend less than that.
-
I want to do some A-pillars and glass some 6.5s and 4" speakers in my door. Do u use fleece first to get the shape, resin........then mat, resin,........bondo? I do I skip the fleece? Also I saw where a guy used pantyhose to start out with, saw another use a old t-shirt instead of fleece. Said it curved better....how true is this
-
arnt these the xx colossus that ran the 2 boards in one heatsink some had problems with blowing up?
Just thought Ive read that more then a few times.
not trying to be funny but read.....i clearly stated which ones they were. Not the long one ur talking about. They have made 2 models since that 40" Colossus was discontinued
-
-
these are the two amps.....same guy I bought the subs from too. Wasnt as loud as it can go either
-
I've heard good things about the XX line of Hifonics. The amps aren't over-rated at all. And I think they are rated at 12.5 volts, I might be wrong on that though.
just a tad under ratted but not rated @ 12.5v more like 14-14.4v....any other opinions?
-
What are you guys thoughts on the XX Colossus II (note: note the big long 40"+ amp...the one before the one thats out now)? Got a chance to buy 2 for a steal to power my 2 dual 1ohm BTL 12s
-
Thanks for the info....im understanding it now... Now for the last question for knowledge purposes, what would a ZAPCO board be used as then. I have one of those packed away.
If u mean the Zapco on-board digital processor, then I cant really help you. Im not too familiar with Zapco....they make some powerful amps but I dont like them personally. Think there are other companies with just as good of product for less money. From what Ive seen of it, it looks like a amp with a processor built into it, but like I said Im not familiar with alot of their stuff. Call them and ask or read the manula if u have one. They can mail u a manual for cheap.
-
what about CDT 6.5's are those active? sorry for the dumb questions?
no comp set or speaker is active unless seperated and used with an external crossover.....not a passive crossover. This is the external crossover/processorthat I will be using (active) http://mobileaudiocontrol.com/product.asp?...l1=5247&l2= . These are examples of passive crossovers http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...;category_id=11 . Totally different. Look at the one Imma be using. It has a channel for front high which is for your tweets, front bandpass for your midrange, rear low/bandpass for your midbass, and sub for obviously your subs. Each has its on settings meaning when I hook my speakers up to an amp....the tweets will have an amp or channel on the amp to itself, the 4" midranges will have one to themselves, etc. When I go to tweek something on my 6.5" woofers....no other speaker will be effected but the 6.5s because ithey're the only one on that channel.....thats active. Passive is using those lil crossovers that come on a comp set like the ones from woofersetc. If u hook them straight up to an amp and u go to change settings; it will effect both the mid and tweet. Actives are more advanced but pricey. If your just looking to get loud then Id just do a bunch of comp sets....actives are more for SQ and control purposes.
-
whats active....external crossover?
yea. Anything that seperates ur channels from each other and has a eq to itself. Like if u have a 6.5" comp set and ur just running them off the front on the radio and using the factory crossover that came with the set....thats passive (in line). If u get a 3 way crossover/eq and run the tweets off its own channel and 6.5 off its own....thats active and sounds 1000x better and u have more control over each individual speaker.
-
I just bought 4 Mach5 MLI-65s beefy lil 6.5" for $36 a woofer. Got the direct from SoundSolutions.
-
I'm currently testing the 4" Daytons in my pillars by powering them off my head unit with passive crossovers and they get plenty loud. Not sure of the mounting depth on the 6.5" though.
Great speakers!
which 4s do u have I got these
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=295-378
4-4" Dayton rs100s 4ohm except Im running mine active
Hifonics Maxximus Vs Memphis 4kws
in Amplifiers
Posted · Edited by CUT BUDDY
never bashed anyone or any product.....it is what it is. Cant get mad if I pointed it out. Im giving dude advice just like everyone else. And so far as why dont u see alot of them? Its cause they cut out the middleman business. Thats why u dont see alot of them. U dont see alot of Enzos but that doesnt mean it isnt hot. And its alot of amps that arent CEA that can wipe the floor with alot of the amps that are CEA example....Atomic isnt CEA, neither is RDaudio, Sundown, IA, etc etc.....