norcal colby
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Posts posted by norcal colby
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yeah, definatley dont get shallow mounts. fullsize because you have the space.
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sorry.. i just say things. anyways, i have distribution blocks but they dont have fuses.. i would have to put fuses after the block. i have one that goes 0 to 4x 4AWG and i cant remember what the other one does
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does anyone agree with me that sealed enclosures have a broader frequency accuracy? with ported enclosures i have noticed a significant drop of quality from ported enlclosures outside of the ports tuning frequency. i dont know what your preferences are, but i like sealed enclosures because I feel like the subwoofer is in a more natural state with more air pressure fighting the excursion so that the internals dont wear down as easily.. just my 2cents. not trying to state facts
a good ported box will have a good freq range.
and most noobs that ask which will be louder hardly even care about the larger freq range that you might get with sealed over ported, but just that ported will be louder.
yeah i make it my focus to design a sq setup. i listen to a broad range of music so i need the largest frequency range i can get. i focus on loud after i find a good sq setup. thats why i have been researching the jl 10w3v3 subs. they are nice and shallow but the sound great. they are also loud in sealed or ported.
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does anyone agree with me that sealed enclosures have a broader frequency accuracy? with ported enclosures i have noticed a significant drop of quality from ported enlclosures outside of the ports tuning frequency. i dont know what your preferences are, but i like sealed enclosures because I feel like the subwoofer is in a more natural state with more air pressure fighting the excursion so that the internals dont wear down as easily.. just my 2cents. not trying to state facts
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nothign wrong with wiring directly from the amp it just takes more wire to do.
yeah but cutting a wire to fit in the amp is kinda ghetto, that's all I'm saying. and with distributors being so cheap, and add the fact that you would need less of the more expensive stuff and it looks better? seems worth it to me.
Did I say anything about that.
i dont think he meant to quote you. i was talking about cutting wires... thats my bad.
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Run 1/0 from the batt back into a fused distro, then 4 gauge to each amp. The shorter you can keep the runs of 4 gauge the better. Add up the total fusing of the amps and thats the size you put under the hood 12 or so inches from the batt. This will let you to in the future change subs and amps and have the power you need already there.
exactly what i did. 0 guage at near the amp i ran a fused distro to mybxi 1610 that only accepted 4g
right on guys. I will be doing that then. 0 through fuse to fused distro block to 4 to amps. sounds like a done deal
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hey guys. i just was browsing and saw this forum for cellphones. I actually write for mobilitydigest.com and i moderate the forums there. if you need help with cellphones, visit those forums and many people can hlep out. not trying to jack a forum, just trying to lead people to a place to get even more help with technical issues. ill post some stuff in this forum to help out to if needed
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none of those
jesus can turn water into wine.
he can also turn a shallow mount into a SMD 18.
just sayin. jesus wouldnt have picked either of those haha. he probally would have made his own sub.. lol
true
dammit so i gotta change the title haha
haha well the title still got me to click on the thread
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steve, can i come buy your shop sometime? i live in south sacramento and have watched your videos for over a year now.. i might have seen you before rollin around before the candy paint
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none of those
jesus can turn water into wine.
he can also turn a shallow mount into a SMD 18.
just sayin. jesus wouldnt have picked either of those haha. he probally would have made his own sub.. lol
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won't more wattage make up for the shallow mounts lack of correct box space?
i think you have to consider the resonant frequncy of box. even though the subs will make the same excursion you are still playing into a differnet sized box. I own two of the same subs and i have them in two differnt enclosures. I can definatley tell a difference in their sound no matter the wattage i throw at them.. and ive also done individual tests so they wer not recieving the same power at the same time to prove that it was independent of wattage.
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You're 4 gauge will work fine. Your voltage at your amp will be higher at the amp if you use 1/0 gauge. I'm using 1/0 gauge on a Rockford T500, 735rms at 1 ohm but running it at 2 ohms. It never hurts to use bigger wires.
True, I do remember reading about voltage drop. I should, however, only need to use a short-ish length of 4AWG making the resistance low, thus making the voltage drop lower. Its all in the OHMs law.. Im hoping to buy 1/0 and distributing to 2 4AWG or 1x4AWG and 1x8AWG. I just think its too much to wire 2 different wires from battery to amps because my 4AWG lengths wont run that far. I could extend them by using a fuse a junction for two lengths of 4awg wire but that wouldnt put the fuse as close to the power source as recomended
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Dont listen to whoever is telling you NEED 0 ga,. wire to run 800 watts to ur sub or subs. Im running over 2k watts in my system and only use 2ga. 4ga. will be plenty for a front to rear run for an 800 watt setup I promise you!
thankyou for the clear response
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basically im trying to only buy one type of wire and one distributor block. I already own some lengths of 4AWG. I might have some 8AWG after I strip the existing wires from my trucks system now.. but im not sure since I wasnt the one to wire it.
Ive recieved a few responses that have told me 4AWG to the JJH1200 amp will be ok and some saying that there is a reason it has 1/0 inputs. If the MTX cust. service guy is correct and at most the amp will pull 80 amps then with calculations 4AWG works out.. from what I remember 4AWG can handle a peak of 150 amps.. I was just hoping someone had some previous experience with this. sorry if im being difficult. Im just trying to weigh all of my options
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my speaker amp takes 8 guage.. (will probally use 4guage cut at ends to fit...) so ill probally end up just running the wires straight from the battery to the amps instead of using a distributer block.
Why not run less of the expensive stuff and use a distributor block to branch into the cheaper wire? I mean $5-$50 for a distributor is not much. It will make the system a lot better and it won't be ghetto like you plan on doing it.
If it's worth doing, it's worth doing RIGHT
The main thing I was worried about was the current draw from the amp and the wires ability to carry the current. I know that the resisitance in the wire plays a big part in its ability to carry current and the lower the distance of travel = lower the resistance. I have a few lengths of 4AWG wire already laying around that I would like to make use of, but even then I will have to use 1/0 guage to get to the distributor block. If im already using the 1/0 for the distributor block, why not just go straight 1/0 to the amp? Then if I do, how would I get my 4guage to the speaker amp? I dont have long enough lengths of 4guage to reach from under the hood to my amp..
What I really want is a distributor block that basically allows me to input 1/0 and output 1/0 and 4awg... that way its just branching off 4guage from the 1/0.. then I would only have to buy one wire size instead of buying 2 guage or whatever..
I want to do it right, but money is an issue.
sorry if this post is confusing.. im a bit scatter brained right now
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its not for looks lol. they have the 1/0 gauge inputs for a reason
alright alright, ill take your word for it
I just dont like ponying up haha. considering the fact that im getting a $500+ amp for only 250 I guess I can dish out a bit extra for some 1/0 guage wire. im recieving a Kinetik 2400 battery too (practically new from my brother for free). I just need to find the best solution for wiring it all up. my speaker amp takes 8 guage.. (will probally use 4guage cut at ends to fit...) so ill probally end up just running the wires straight from the battery to the amps instead of using a distributer block. -
i have a dodge ram 1500 from 2005... standard cab. shortbed. if the space is similar, you can def fit some full size subs back there. just have to be a bit creative. I have simple wedged box designs on my computer that will allow JL 10w3v3 subs to fit. im sure many other things will work too. currently i have two 12" pioneer premier shallow mount subs back there... but since most shallow subs still require alot of volume just find a way to fit a full size. dont settle for shallow mounts unless you have to.
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sorry for not replying guys, i got busy. im using two 4ohm subs single coil so the load will be 2ohm. and the rms from 2ohm is 800w. i asked MTX themselves and they said that the max amp draw is around 80amps. so i figure 4AWG should be fine. thanks for the insight
i think the 1/0 guage is just for looks or for those who want to go into 1ohm.
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Hey guys, new to the forum and wanted to start by asking a quick question. Ive done all the calculations and im pretty sure my set up will work, but i just wanted to run it by some more people. I will be going with 2 10w3v3 JL subs with an MTX JH1200 amp. the amp will give me 800watts at 2ohms rms. i want to know if a 4guage input will be enough. it accepts 1/0 guage but i already have some 4guage laying around to use. I have a speaker amp that Ill be giving 4guage already so I will go 1/0 guage to a distributer block to 4guage. Do you think that the amp will require more??
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I just dont like ponying up haha. considering the fact that im getting a $500+ amp for only 250 I guess I can dish out a bit extra for some 1/0 guage wire. im recieving a Kinetik 2400 battery too (practically new from my brother for free). I just need to find the best solution for wiring it all up. my speaker amp takes 8 guage.. (will probally use 4guage cut at ends to fit...) so ill probally end up just running the wires straight from the battery to the amps instead of using a distributer block.
What would you do?
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
i think people should be talking specs not brands. look up the specs and make a decision that way. find out the resonant requencies. use an efficiency calculator...check this site out that i found...
http://bcae1.com/speaker.htm