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sstalder5

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Posts posted by sstalder5

  1. Price was the deciding factor. FVH looked great but I couldn't make myself pay that much for lights when BBM looked just as good at a fraction of the price. And the fact that they were very straightfoward without any dumb claims like "advanced german tecnology" or "from the most expensive supplier in japan" ... :bull:

  2. Well at $60.31 including shipping, even if I do have to use the lifetime warranty it still sounds great! I just ordered the 55w 8000k.

    At carhidkits.com It was a 1 year warranty, i had to pay shipping both ways, and it took weeks. And in the year and two weeks since I got them, I've had one defective bulb and FIVE defective ballasts from them. And the last ballast they sent me was digital, and it washes out more color than the regular one on the other side so they're completely different colors.. :angry: So as long as the product is decent from DDM I'll be ecstatic!

  3. So I need to replace the HIDs in my low beams because I bought them from a shitty company. (www.carhidkits.com NEVER BUY FROM THEM!!!)

    My current setup is 55w 6000k low beams and 35w 6000k fogs that I bought from my local audio shop and have had no issues with.

    I want to go with 8000k 55w but I think my local shop only has 35w. So where can I find a good online retailer that doesn't have shitty product and doesn't claim to have "advanced german technology" or other bullshit like that?

  4. I guess we have to start somewhere... This is what I would do with that info

    Alpine 9887 HU

    Polk Audio MM component speakers (they come in those sizes)

    Rockford Fosgate T400-4

    2 Polk Audio SR 12" subs

    Rockford Fosgate T1500-1

    I roughly did the math estimating most of the prices and I came out with about $2600. This leaves 400, for box materials and wiring without going over budget.

    This would be a pretty high SQ system but it could pump out some SPL too.

  5. Did you unplug the RCAs and remote wire before messing with the cap wires? Did you double check the connection at the battery and the ground for the amp? Are you running an inline fuse? I have a feeling I know whats wrong, but I need more information before I can help you.

    Yes to all of those things. I generally know what I'm doing when it comes to car audio, but I'm completely stumped right now. I just went out and checked the battery and it's dropped down to 9.5v. It was at 12.5v last night when I got home around 11. I'm about to charge the battery, then pull out the fuse and see if it still drains power.

  6. Ok, so on friday I switched from using a .5 farad capacitor (which seemed pointless) to a direct 4 gauge to my amp (see sig for specifics) It worked fine until yesterday afternoon when I turned on the car and only the subs were working. All of the wiring to the head unit and the Alpine power pack thing looked fine, and the head unit seemed to be working fine besides not sending output to my door speakers. Then I left the car overnight to go camping, and when I got home just now I tried to start it and the battery was dead. I jumped it and I'm recharging the battery right now, but I have no idea what the problem could be. Help?

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