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Also, while I'm here I was wondering, what rim width would fit on 33x12.5x15 tires?

Thanks for the input guys, but I think I've decided I'm gonna get the 33's for now for a couple reasons. 35's seem to cost about 50 bucks more per tire, and rubbing is really gonna bother me, so I don't want to risk it. So I'm just gonna get some 33's, then a few years down the road when I can afford a suspension lift, I'll upgrade the tires.

Eh. Think I've decided to go with 33's until I can save up for a suspension lift. This setup should fit 33's right?

I have a 94 Chevy C1500 Suburban 2wd. Was looking at this leveling kit - 2.5" to 3" in the front, and 1.5" in the back. And I want to get a 3" body lift on top of that. So that should be a total of 5.5"+ in the front, and 4.5" in the back, anyone know if I'll be able to fit 35's on there?

I'm going to have mids and highs on separate channels, so it's not enough. And that's not what I was asking...Just want to know if the front output from the H/U is the same signal as the rear output. Am I correct in my assumption that they're the same signals as long as you don't mess with the fader?

Alright cool, didn't know that..So yeah, ignore my post above. But how would a single 8 ohm with a single 4 ohm be any different?

I'm no expert on amps, but I don't see why you couldn't do that. All you're doing is messing with the equivalent resistance of the speakers. EDIT: Are you talking about like 4 ohms on one channel, and two ohms on another channel? If so, I'm pretty sure, like DeathByBass said, each channel is independent

Also, for the tweeters, you can still use both outputs, just wire 2 of them together in parallel on one channel, and the same for the other channel. You end up with a 4 ohm load on each channel, and each tweeter gets 62.5W Don't think it would be a good idea to use only one left channel or one right channel. It's quite noticeable on some songs. But then again, like I said, I've never really wired speakers, so what do I know.

If my understanding of physics is correct, that isn't necessarily so. You COULD wire 3 of the speakers in parallel, then the other 2 speakers in parallel, and then wire those sets in series (on each channel.) So you'd probably do 6 speakers up front, 4 in back, or vice versa. This would give you a 6.67 ohm load, so you'd be getting less power from the amp altogether. But also, you would have less power going to the speakers in the set set of 3 speakers than the ones in the set of 2 (let's say the amp puts out 100W at 6.67 ohms.. each of the speakers in the set of 2 would get 30W each, and the speakers in the set of 3 would get 13.3W each.) I've never applied this concept to speakers, but it should work like that. Probably best to just use 8 speakers, but if you'd rather use 10, I hope this helps. I was mostly just bored and felt like doing some math.

Quick question...Are the front and rear RCA outputs of a head unit going to put out the same signals, as long as you don't touch the fader? Reason I ask is, I'm thinking it will be a lot cheaper to use one amp for the whole car, rather than one for the front and one for the back. (or two amps instead of three or four)

I really don't want to face the sub up or down, and I prefer to have the sub face forward for display reasons. But for the port, should I have it fire out the back? How bad would it sound the way it is with the sub and port forward? Would it just make it louder in certain points in the room than in others? I'm not going for a pro sound quality build, I just want something that looks kinda cool, and gives me some bass. IF I do decide to build it with this design, and in the future I decide I want it to sound better, could I just turn it to face the wall, or add some feet and face it down or up even?

I've been looking at other receivers, and I've realized I don't really need all the features on the one I was going to use. I think I now want to use this one. This receiver is only 20 bucks, and seems like it will work perfectly for me. The main difference is that it's only 20 watts per channel. Will that get loud enough to fill my room? I also like that you can use down to 4 ohm speakers, instead of 8 ohm like the other receiver I was looking at. I dunno, would this receiver be good for me? and, just in case, if I did want to use the RCA inputs for the amp, could I just use splitters and plug one set into the amp, and one into the receiver? I'll probably end up using the speaker terminals, but I was just wondering.

Cool, so it's better to have the port come out the front then?

There will be 45's. I'm mostly worried about where the port should end.

I'm going to building a t-line box for a REX12 to go in my room. I was wondering what would be the best way to build the box (mostly worried about port placement here.) I wasn't sure if it would be better to have the port up or forward. I made a quick picture for my ideas for the box. As you can see, I kept the subs at the bottom, because I've always learned they're supposed to be down low. Which of these is better? Or would you recommend a better design? I'm open to suggestions. If it matters at all, my room is about 12x12

I don't know how that happened lol. I think I'll just try both setups whenever I get the equipment and see which works better. Well, I guess I know all I need to be able to buy and set this stuff up. Thank you very much for the help bro.

Thank you for taking the time to explain that. The reason I was asking about using the RCAs instead of the high level inputs is that I've never used anything like that before an I don't want to do it wrong. Should I just try both, and see what sounds better? As for the wiring to the high level inputs, do I need to worry about the ohm load or the power coming from the receiver? Is the 100W from the receiver going to get canceled out somehow and "changed" into the 170W that the amp will be putting out to the sub? The amp also has "TO SPEAKERS" under the high level in/out. Can I just hook up some more speakers there? Would I use the specs of the receiver when choosing speakers for it (100W per channel, at least 16 ohm speaker impedance)? I made a picture of the wiring to make sure I got it right. I know this is a lot of questions, but I'm new to this and I want to get it right. I really appreciate your help.

I did know how to wire them, just never knew they were called coaxial, but thanks for explaining anyway. So In order to use the RCA input on the plate amp, I would need a sub-out or LFE output on the receiver? It wouldn't be okay to just use a regular audio output? Like the outputs on this receiver: Kinda hard to see, but under each AUX 1 and AUX 2, there is a pair of RCA in and out. Since it's not specifically a subwoofer output, is that not acceptable to connect to the amp? The amp does have a low-pass filter adjustable from 40 Hz to 180 Hz, so I assume that means it won't send out anything lower than 180 Hz to the sub anyway.

Sweet, looks like that will work great. I've decided to just use one of those subs though, so I think this amp would work well with it. You said to wire the coaxials in series. Are coaxials just the audio (red/white) cables? How exactly do you wire that in series? I'm probably wrong, but I assumed you meant to run the cable from the source to the receiver, and then from an output on the receiver to the sub amp. But the only output the receiver has is under tape and VCR. So how should I connect the amp?

Cool thank you, but how bout for the speakers? And do you know any good places I can look for the receiver, or maybe an example of one that will work for me? Looking for something under $250.

Okay, maybe if I'm more specific I might be able to get more help. If I want to use two of these and four of these what kind of amp/receiver setup might work? I want something I can just plug my ipod/computer/tv into..Don't mind if I need 3.5 to a/v adapters or whatever.

I'm sure this has been asked here before many times, but I didn't see anything on the first few pages that really answered my question. So, what equipment do I need to hook up car speakers and subwoofers in my room? Home amp? Receiver? If it helps, I plan on having two 10's and probably two 2-ways. Not sure what kind of power I want until I see how much the equipment costs.

I was wondering who you were talking about yesterday And cool, thanks. I was about to give up and just go for a regular toggle in the back. I don't know why, but just searching for 3 way toggles never gave me what I was looking for.

Okay after lots of research, I believe what I need is "SPDT on-on" switches. Is this correct? (I wasn't getting many results searching for "three way switch") Also, do I need to worry about the voltage and amps they're rated for? This one I was looking at is 125V and 15A. Would that be good? The light strip I ordered was 15 LEDs if that helps... It had no info on the amperage or anything.

Lol, alright bro, thanks for the help. I think I understand the wiring. Lots of guides for it online anyway.