LZTYBRN
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Posts posted by LZTYBRN
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Thank you for the input. Let me just pull $500+ out of my ass to afford a 1500D. I've got no job bro. Some people simply have to settle with something less.
Why don't you post a fuckin budget then instead of being a dick about it.
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I used Torres to design the box and it told me physical port length 12in so thats how long the port wall is behind the double baffle. What I put in for port was 20in
It's more or less impossible to have a 20" port if your depth is only 23", and that's probably why torres gave you a weird dimension for physical port length. But let me get this straight. You just put in a 12" piece, no L or anything? You didn't stop and think "How do I get a 20 inch port from 12 inches plus 1.5 inch of baffle?"? But in any case, I don't see how this would cause port noise. x2 on pics
i un mine at 0 and -3, but on you setup youll def need -10
And why do you say that?
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Looks like dayton mid and subwoofers.
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use MP3 Rocket, it will take the mp3 file from youtube videos and shit. thats what I do
That's called copyright infringement. It's illegal and frowned upon round here.
Just right click the song in Itunes and choose Create MP3 Version...will make a 320kbps version in the same folder as the purchased one
Okay so I tried right clinking it but there is nothing that says create mp3. It has an option that says create aac. Not sure what that is.
It depends how you have itunes set. If you want to change it to something else, Go to Edit > Preferences > General > Import Settings, then pick the one you want, and select the highest settings (preferably).
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can you even buy pwxs anymore?
Yup you can get them on Crescendo's store, or from SSA.
And to the op, if you do plan on getting an amp and doing a separate mid and tweeter setup, I don't think you'll be disappointed by the crescendos for the price. Heard nothing but great things about them.
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Do you have a high pass on the mids? My guess is the low frequencies are what's making them sound distorted... Not sure but you should be able to put a filter on them through your head unit.
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you need to know how efficient that aq is at .5 ohm
14volts x 250 amps = 3500 watts
but that aq is prb only 50-60 % efficient at .5 ohm so your back down to around 1800 watts
so 1800 watts / 12 volts, since your alt isn't keeping up we will say 12, plus its always better to have extra
so 1800/12=150 amps you need to make up with batteries
I think you got it backwards homie. If an amp is 50% efficient and puts out 3500W, then your electrical is seeing 7000W, not 1800.
Are you sure your alt is gonna be enough for the kind of power you're gonna be running?
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I get 3136.5 cubic inches. 1.815 cubic feet.
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I have no experience with this kind of thing, but you might be able to make them out of foam
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Most 3 way component sets come with passive crossovers so just plug and play basically. If you were to go active then you would need an electronic crossover of some sort to run seperate amps, or channels of a 4 channel amp to the different speakers individually.
I'm not talking about component sets. I mean if I chose each driver individually, like pro audio drivers or something.
Do you know of any active crossovers for a 3 way setup? I could try to build the crossovers out of capacitors and inductors, just don't want it to sound like complete ass...
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How about a 8 and 6 in the door and a super tweet for the a pillar. Run them as a big three way comp. I had a setup like this in my integra. 8" played 70-500, 6" 500-3500,tweets 3000 and up. Sounded great.
I would like to do a 3 way setup like that. I'm just not sure how I'd cross them over, and not sure how to even choose drivers. Hmm...
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Any plans for the second one?
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Are you putting the negative lead on negative speaker terminal or amp ground?
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just take ur time man n instead of fleece,try ponti or spandex. needs less resin. and make sure shape will b fine and not weird for u or pass. foot room.dont wanna kickem
Yeah lol I'm tryin to find sets that have some strong looking grills on them. I'm definitely gonna take my time on these, as well as doing lots of research, because at this point I know hardly anything about glassing.
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it wont sound bad man.. are you going for a serious high sq vehicle? i gots myself a few speakers in my dart and its a sq'ish build.itll still sound goodman
Alright cool. That's probably what I'll do then. I really wanted to start with the kicks, because I figured they'd be easiest and easiest to fix if I mess up. So I guess I'll do that.
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unless you are planning on or have some sort of time alingment, i would recomend not running dash and kick components. one or the other. Otherwise you will hear things at different times unless its not a big deal. but I would run a three way comp set with crossovers unless you are planning on going active. but a three way set up middbass in door with 4 or 5" midrange and tweet in dash or kick. if in the kick, you could add a silk tweet in the dash to help bring stage hight up. or even a 4" coax in the dash with a midbass in the kicks. good luck
What kind of device would I need for time alignment? And how bad would it sound without?
I guess I could just skip kick locations... Then I won't have to worry about people kicking them in.
I wasn't really planning on dishing out the money for a 3-way set, considering this will be my first "real" mids and highs setup, AND my first time glassing. Unless you know any budget 3-way sets?
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5.25comps in the dash but id keep 6.5s in the kicksiff possible and 8s would be good midbass in door. im just running 2 setsof 6.5sin my doors right now.
Thanks for the reply. Reason I was thinking 5.25's in kicks as well, is that I'd be able to run them off the same channel as the ones in the dash. But I guess investing in another 2-4 channels might be worth it. You think that setup will sound good though? I know nothing about imaging and all that, so I'm really lost.
Are your doors done? I was going through your build log, and last I seen you had them glassed, but didn't look like you installed them yet.
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Bump... I'm thinkin maybe two 5 1/4" comp sets, one in dash, one in kicks, and then some 6-8" midbass in the doors. Does that sound good?
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That was from 2010?
/\ this..... if i had to guess he is long gone.....thats sad
If you go to the co.uk link, the family is still fighting to get him back, but at this point it doesn't seem too hopeful.
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Civil rights movement wasn't in Ireland lol, and it doesn't apply to dogs... signed though.
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They're so close in cone area, it really boils down to what looks best or works best for you.
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Well, I've had some bass for a while, and it's definitely time to upgrade mids and highs now. The little 4" speakers I have now just aren't cutting it -- not even close. Now, the only stock speaker location up front is the little 4x6 spot in the dash.. So this is definitely gonna have to involve some fiberglassing. I'm just not sure where to go with this setup. The three spots available are the dash locations, kicks, and doors (pics below).
(sorry for poor quality)
Looks like I can fit 5.25's in dash, 6~8" in doors, and a 6" (maybe bigger if I alter the brake) in the kicks. There's just so many possible setups, I'm not sure what to do here. I know for sure I want to put something in the dash, because I don't have the stock grilles, and can't find em anywhere. My goal is to have good imaging, and extension down to at least 50hz. Any ideas?
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Alright. Well With the RCA to Aux input I was seeing if there were RCA's that go both channels into 1.
Would it work if i got two of those RCA to Aux Chords for each set of RCA's and then used something like this
To put both channels together to play them out since i'm not using a HU?
That would work, but if it's a long enough run, it'd be easier to just use a regular aux to RCA converter, then run an RCA cable, and use y-splitters from there.
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Y-splitters.
Just ordered an SA-15 D2... What amp should I choose?
in Amplifiers
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How am I supposed to know that's all you're willing to spend? That could mean anything. If you still don't want to post a specific budget, then good luck with that MB Quartz homie.