LZTYBRN
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Posts posted by LZTYBRN
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A regular RCA to XLR adapter won't do anything. Both the shield and one of the conductors in the XLR are connected to the ground of the RCA, so it's besically the same as RCA just with a different connector.
If you actually want a balanced signal, you'd need something to actively convert it. I don't know much about this, but after some quick research I came across a couple things. Google "balun transformers" and "jensen transformers." Hopefully that helps.
Also, I'm curious what amp it is you got... car audio?
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Yeah only PC. They give you the codes to redeem it on steam.
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Don't know how many of you already know about this, but thought I'd let you all know anyway. You can get 6 games for only a dollar, or 7 games if you pay $5.71 (this number is slowly rising, because it's the average "donation"). I only got it for Metro and Saints Row, so no idea if the other games are any good. But even if you only like just one of those games, still worth it no doubt.
Edit: These are only for PC, and windows only.
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That is basically exactly what I just said just throw away the word voltage. He said the track -10 was putting too much power on MUSIC and making his subs bottom out. If he tunes it with the -5 track he will be turning the gain down essentially = less voltage = less power on MUSIC correct? But none of tones matter much once you put music on, if he tunes it to the -10 track and then plays music that has -5db notes in it he will be clipping. This is even more dangerous if your subs cannot handle the power your amp produces.
You're right about all that, but he never said anything about music. You can't really accurately test voltage on music. When someone says they get a certain voltage with a certain track, you'd assume they used the same track to test voltage as they did to set it.
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I'm confused. How do you get 28V with the -5db and then 40V with -10db?
AC Voltage
I understand that lol. I'm pretty sure the distortion point should be at about the same output regardless of which track you use.
Wrong, if you play a -5db track and turn the gain up half way to reach distortion light then put -10 track on you will have to turn the gain up higher to reach the same distortion light. More gain is gonna be more Voltage.
No, that's not how it works. The -10db track is gonna produce a little more than half the voltage of the -5db. Then you adjust the gain back up to the distortion point, and it'll be back up to about the same voltage.
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Will that makes all the difference. Where does it say theres a multiplier on the x-over.
That amp looks too good to be true. 800.4 200w each channel plus good x-over seems like a steal. It would be worth the 300 to me just for 200w each channel.
I guess Im going 2 way active until I am ballsy enough to fiberglass my doors.
Thanks for clarifying and showing me something I missed. I think Imma take some more time to learn some stuff and order it up.
Do you think my electrical will be good enough for it and a BC2000 at 1ohm
When I said it has a nice crossover, I just meant it's versatile. I can't speak for the quality of it or the amp itself. Other than the ones listed above, I can only think of 2 amps that allow you to bandpass with the on board filters (those being DC and Zed).
And if you look at the picture of the side where the x-over controls are, you'll see that it says freqx1 for when the button is not pressed, and freqx10 for when it is pressed. So basically, your high pass can be anything from 20 to 4000hz, and your low pass anywhere from 50 to 5000hz.
I'm curious though...
Pretty much the same amp as PPI, polk, hertz and few others
If I'm looking at the correct amp (http://www.sonicelec...wer-P900.4.html), it's only 230 bucks. Any reason you'd go with the NVX over the Precision Power?
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Ehh maybe Ill get the NVX just run passive untill I have the balls to fiberglass 8's and 6's into my doors and go active. Than I could use the NVX on the 8's and get another amp for the rest. I think I settled on what Imma do. Thanks for the input guys and I think actives just a little over my head right now.
The NVX has a nice active crossover on it. I think that's the main reason he linked it. It'd be sort of a waste to get that amp and run passive.
And to answer your question above, it has a 10x multiplier for the crossover. So you can cross your tweeters at up to 4khz.
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Have you tried free studio?
http://www.dvdvideosoft.com/products/dvd/Free-AVI-Video-Converter.htm
It says it'll convert .mts files, but I dunno about acvhd. When you're ready to convert it, at the bottom, either select original quality, or full hd.
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I'm confused. How do you get 28V with the -5db and then 40V with -10db?
AC Voltage
I understand that lol. I'm pretty sure the distortion point should be at about the same output regardless of which track you use.
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I'm confused. How do you get 28V with the -5db and then 40V with -10db?
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Weird. Works for me too, but http://www.isup.me/ says it's down.
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lol at the end... she's probably using her phone to record the video
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I agree with aerickson here. After you remove the fuse, you really have nothing to worry about (as long as you're only messing with the amp). Easiest way to do it, and as long as you know wtf you're doing, shouldn't present any hazards.
I wouldn't stress about doing it the "proper" way. Just be smart about it and you'll be good. With multiple batteries, the "proper" way could honestly be unreasonable. Not to mention it'll reset the memory on your H/U and other devices.
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I'd honestly just buy a sheet of 3/4. Save the 1/2" for speaker rings or something, you'll find a use for it some day.
Unless, like n8 said, you have enough to double up.
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Do I have this right? You connected the dmm lead directly to each side of the fuse holder and got different readings?
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Or maybe something to do with the 16 volts wouldn't you need the dd-1 hv for that?
The hv is for high voltage output (high power output), input voltage doesn't matter.
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he cant technically wire to .5. .75 is the lowest he can go. just saying, but i'd still recommend not to do it.
Lowest he can go is 1.5 ohms, I believe they only come in dual 6's. And I think he meant .5 ohms more than the minimum of 1 ohm. Not actually wiring to .5 ohms.
You might do well to learn the difference between Peak and RMS as well.
To put it shortly: when an "RMS" signal clips you double your power to produce the "peak" result. That means if you are set for 3KW RMS then if you clip you could send upwards of 6KW to the subwoofer(s).
Peak has nothing to do with clipping. Peak power is just the power the sub can handle for a short instance of time. Usually the peak output from an amp will be about 1.4 times the RMS power. And that's not only when clipping, that's at every high and low point on the sine wave.
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my worry is the .5 ohms more will this cause the amp to fail or other isues?
Going higher than the amp's rated impedance will not cause a problem. But do you have the electrical to run approximately 3k?
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Why does it pull more current? Like what physically goes on inside the amp to make that happen?
I believe it's because of the regulated power supply, which attempts to always keep power output the same.
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To keep power output the same, the amp has to compensate by pulling more amps, which, like he ^^^ said, creates heat.
At least that's my understanding of it.
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where are you getting 2 and 15 from? and how does that equal 32?
2 15" woofers. Would leave no room for port at top, and only about 4" on the side (with subs arranged in a square).
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wasnt fond of the lyrics
Whut.
I mean don't get me wrong, I love me some Wiz, but if I cared about lyrics I definitely wouldn't be listening to him, or much of any rap for that matter.
But Smokin On (Snoop and Wiz) is probably my favorite so far, that or On My Level.
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If you have a clamp meter for DC amps, hook two batteries in series, hook the actuator up, and measure it while it's working. And make sure they're hooked up to whatever they're moving, because I BELIEVE they use more amps depending on how much physical resistance there is. Then you'll know how many amps the converter would need to put out.
Or you can just keep 2 batts in series, disconnected from the rest of the car's electrical, and just charge them separately as needed.
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i would just run two 6.5s per channel and the tweets either on one channel or 2 separate ones depending on power handling
That'll leave me 1 channel free because 2 tweeters will be go on one channel.
Is everyone still against putting 8"s on that empty channel?
I don't think anyone's really "against" it per se, but there's a few reasons it's not really a good idea. The first, and probably most important reason, you can't control each channel's crossovers individually. You can only control them in pairs. This goes for the amp, your head unit, and pretty much any active crossover I can think of. So you would either need to go passive, or find some other way of crossing them.
So let's say you DO find a way to cross them properly. Well now you'll have to go mono instead of stereo. On most songs you won't be able to tell the difference, but there are a few songs that do utilize the left/right channels, and sometimes the effect is actually pretty cool and ends up sounding really nice. I guess this part is up to you, but it's not really the "proper" way to set up a stereo system.
If I were you, I'd just do (2-3) 6.5's and the tweets. Then if sometime down the line, you feel you need more midbass, you can get another amp and add the 8's (or other drivers) in the kicks, or redo your doors.
Polaris RZR-4 900 Turbo - Sound system and Mods - Update: New Seats!! Rockford Fosgate I-Beam Bracket Fabbed Pg. 30
in Just Meade....my projects - Tons of SMD Builds here!
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Man, I haven't been on this site in a minute. Forgot how pleasant it is to watch a nice quality build like this come together.
The box is really looking damn nice. The angles and everything flow perfectly with the RZR. Really impressive (I'd expect nothing less though, eh?)