LZTYBRN
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Posts posted by LZTYBRN
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Well then according to this calculator, a 10 μF capacitor will give you a high pass of 3978 at -6db/octave. So that capacitor you linked should be just about right.
And I don't think it really matters where you set the amp's crossover, but I would just set it to all pass.
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If you live in Johnstown, PA, it looks like there's someone with a DD-1 about an hour from you (if it's worth it to you.) http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/137758-smd-audio-tools-map/
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i no some people said where your amp gain is at the remote gain will not go past that
Correct.
also how accurate is the clipping light on it? when it blinks am i clipping or solid red? i no a few people said when it says your clipping your really not so im confused
It's not accurate at all. Most people say not to pay any attention to it.
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What is the impedance of your tweeters?
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The DD-1 is not an o-scope. Quite a few differences, a big one being scopes detect clipping, the dd-1 detects distortion (omg!). All clipping is distortion, but not all distortion is clipping.
Without going into it too much, get a dd-1. It's more user friendly and its pretty amazing.
i hate to be that asshole, but dont listen to this guy^^
distortion IS clipping. is the DD-1 an oscope? no. it will just tell you at what gain level distortion is being sent to your speakers.
I hate to be THAT asshole, but everything he said was correct.
Distortion does NOT necessarily imply clipping.
Anyway, the DD-1 detects distortion. While an o-scope gives you a visual representation of the sine wave going through your speakers. The DD-1 is more accurate in the sense that it will detect more than just clipping, and it will set it to exactly 1% THD.
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Do you have a clamp meter? If so, see how much current is being drawn with the car on, and all accessories off.
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It might be easier to make the whole front piece (with the port) removable. Then you can have some pieces that come out more, and each piece can have its own appropriate port on it.
Edit: Kinda hard to explain what I was talking about. Something like this:
Then of course you just bolt it in and use some sort of gasketing tape.
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I also have the 154-piece set. It's a good set of tools, but I don't really like the case. The smaller wrenches fall out some times, because they're kinda just sandwiched in there. I'd personally get one those toolbox-drawer type sets. In fact, now that I see those, I think I'm gonna try to sell mine and get one of those.
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Haha, I'm in the exact same situation as you. And I was just about to make a thread about joining the air force too.
Anyway, I talked to a recruiter about a year ago, and he said the doctor can just sign it off. And I personally wouldn't risk it, but I know a couple people that lied about it. They're not gonna look at your records, but again, I wouldn't risk it.
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That does sound like one cool mofo. Sure knows how to take care of his customers. Congrats on the new subs man.
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Doesn't matter, had sex.
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I don't know much about it... And xs doesn't put any info on their website for some reason. But from what I know it steps the voltage down to 12v. You basically put everything but your amps on it (up to 50 amperes)
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Use firefox chrome with adblock addon.
ftfy
dick clean up
I think I need that.
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..........wtf. Yeah, I wouldn't buy from you lol.
Dude change your pic back to toy story! that als toy barn shit had me rollin with your name
Lol, that's funny you remember that. The avater didn't fit right after the forum upgrade, but I'm gonna change it back now. I think I liked it better too.
EDIT: Fiiiiiiiiinally got it lol
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If i blow mine up im shipping them back, but ill slice the side of the box so they fall out and break.
..........wtf. Yeah, I wouldn't buy from you lol.
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Skar VVX, Fi SSD, Obsidian perhaps.
I'm really considering a 4th order. I have some plans for one. Basically, it'll be three independant boxes that join together with t-nuts (lots), and the subs will use the sides of the ported part as the baffle. I can get 6.88cuft before displacement on the two sealed boxes, and 15cuft before displacement for the ported side. I want to go with 4 15s, two in each sealed box, somewhere around 750-1000wrms.
I really have no idea what you're saying, but three separate boxes does not sound like a good idea.
And since you seem to be new at this, I would recomment NOT trying a 4th order. Start out with some ported boxes. Build your woodworking skills, find out what sounds good to you, etc.
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Look good? 140 db worthy?
Look 140+ db worthy?
What are you talking about?
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I would definitely aim closer to 1.25 for this setup.
Did you put in the length of external port? Doesn't look like you did, but could be wrong.
Something like 1.25 cuft. with a single 4" aero should be good.
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quaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad
Anyway, I don't think going and listening to different brands would do much for you at all. Every car and enclosure will sounds completely different.
Are you set on a pair of tens though? Could probably get "better" with that budget.
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I think Im going with these http://www.amazon.co...=A3JV2WX8IXDD3A
Now I just need to figure out my crimping/soldering situation for my ring terminals.
Those look pretty good, would eliminate the need for a couple ring terminals. I've been trying to find these other ones that I liked, but I can't seem to find them. I'll let you know if I do.
As for a torch, I've had this one about 6 months now, and it's served me well. You could probably find a cheaper one though if you want, like:
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Ok cool, ill take a look at those. I'm not sure my crimp is that strong, its literally just a wirecutter with a slot to crimp wires, not sure if that's what you meant. And thanks for all your help. Ill be home in about 15 minutes and ill get you those pictures.
Thanks everyone for the help as well!!
No, not that kind of crimper. That won't work, at all (if it's what I'm thinking it is).
If you want to get a crimper, take a look at this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydraulic-Crimping-Tool-Kit-8-Ton-Electric-Wire-Crimper-/230762212794?pt=BI_Electrical_Equipment_Tools&hash=item35ba7fedba#ht_2482wt_1037
Otherwise, just solder them. The ones with the closed tops that were linked above are pretty easy to solder. Just melt a bunch of solder in there (with a butane torch), and then stick the wire in it. The kind with the open ends are alright too, but I'd recommend the closed ones.
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Those subs are complete shit. I learned the hard way.
Are you sure you even have room for 4 15s? Do you plan on upgrading your power any time soon? If not, I'd just go with a 15 or two.
can anyone point me in the right direction for info on "free-air" designs?
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
I could be wrong, but I think it's as simple as putting a vertical board with holes for the woofers, and sealing it up.