PandorasCustoms
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Posts posted by PandorasCustoms
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I drink just about anything Craft beers.
Duvel, Dunkel, Tagnerine Wheat, Alagash, Saigon, Lagunitas, Maxximus, Hefeweizen...
Everytime I go to a bar or restaurant, I try to get something different.
I have a good beer store right by my place that sells craft beer for anywhere between $10~$15 for a 12-pack.
But, I have had some that were $12~$15 a bottle...
It is more expensive, but so worth it when you get a really good one. All light beers taste like water to me....
I actually just got done drinking a batch of beer I made myself. Took 3 months for the whole process and I loved it...
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1200 Watts is around 85 Amps (14 Volts) being ripped from the alternator.
You will probably be fine running around during the day, but may see some loses when Lights, A/C or Heater, Wiper Blades, Etc... are all running.
It is safe to say that you should run it, and if you see any drops, make those your next upgrade.
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That looks like a good setup to me.
Similar to a build I made before.
It is just unfortunate you will be losing so much Enclosure volume from port displacement, but its all good.
You should not have any problems with port noise with monsters that size...
By the way, just for future reference as well, the Rule of thumb is a maximum of 8:1 for Height:Width on a rectangular port. You met this easily, but just wanted to throw out some more data for any others watching and considering this thread...
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i had 3 12inch type R's in a sealed box once, and it hit pretty hard.. it hit you harder in the chest then my 4 15inch kicker L7s do..
doubt that.. unless you tried and failed with a ported box for the L7s
dont doubt it.. its true.. the box for my L7s is tuned lowww.. but it doesnt hit you in the chest like my type R's did.. think what you want but its true..
Well, tuning low for a ported enclosure has a HUGE negative effect on the SPL output. I find it doubtful that Sealed Type R's would out SPL Ported L7s.
But, there is no sense in arguing about any of this because every application in every vehicle is different.
Different woofers act different based on how they are used. The reason all professionals use different equipment.
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JL has a great write-up about this...
------------------------------------------JL Audio - Car Audio Systems http://bit.ly/kD7o2l ------------------------------------------
Slot / Ducts
Ducts are often used when a particular alignment calls for an outrageously long port to be squeezed in a very tiny enclosure due to a very low tuning. This scenario is commonly encountered when constructing ported enclosures for long excursion drivers.
Designing and implementing a duct in your own project is really not as hard as it may seem at first, but there are a few guidelines you must follow if you are to experience any degree of success utilizing this porting technique.
Below is a perspective view of a typical duct port along with a few helpful tips on how to get the best results from your duct.
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You can make as many bends in a port as you wish, but you have to make sure the port size is not affected.
The ports in my box actually have... Four bends each. Bending a port could save a lot of Enclosure volume if you do it right.
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I could possibly run some calculations for this later today when I get home, but I don't have the time while I am at work. If you don't have an answer when I get a chance, I will look into it.
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Port Area for a speaker is not a valid calculation.
You can tune to any frequency with any sized port, but port noise may be really bad, and anytime you bump it will sound terrible...
You need a certain port area to generate your tuning frequency and to counter act port noise.
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Displacement of a sub-woofer can be pretty closely estimated by calculating the volume of a "Frustum"....
Getting into the tuning frequency gets slightly more complicated. But, I do think Torres's calculator accounts for all of that. I have never used it personally, but I know many others have.
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Hey, it isn't the amount of equipment used or the money invested. It is the amount of creativity used to make it YOUR BUILD.
I think that setup is nice. Maybe not be a flexing monster, but it gets the job done and makes the owner happy, right?
By the way, where did you end up mounting the amplifier?
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4th order is easy if you take your time and get your measurements right. Sealed on the backside, ported on the front side. Simple as that. Just think of it as two boxes mashed together .
If you want helping trying to set one up, I may be able to do so. But, that would need to go to PMs or another thread, as this would off-topic from OP original question,.
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Sealed boxes drop 12 db an octave below the Fs of the enclosure, and ported drops 24 db an octave below the tuning frequency.
It all really depends on what YOU want to do. If you listen to a lot of metal or high speed music (Techno, etc...), then sealed may be a better option.
But, if you like to bring down the house, go with ported. The biggest problem with ported though is if you are not careful you can rip the coil right off your sub. A subwoofer looses all control and "unloads" below the tuning frequency of a ported enclosure. This is why the roll off is so dramatic. A poorly designed box or an improperly tuned amplifier will destroy a subwoofer in a ported enclosure.
If you are really feeling brave, go with 4th Order Bandpass. They really aren't that hard to design, and some of the ones I have built were just incredible. I put a 300 watt bandpass system in a Passatt a year ago and that thing flexxed like it was 1,000 watts. It completely destroys my 650 watt ported system.
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have one. Have a rotary telephone connected to it with one of these curly round phone cords. Any of you little whippersnappers ever seen one?
Hey! My grandfather had one of those! On his desk, right next to these things he called a letter opener and stamps.
Actually, my sister still has the phone, she is sort of nostalgic I guess.
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I haven't had a house phone for almost three years.
My wife and I never go over our minutes, so I got a 3rd line (An extra $15/mo) and just give people that number as a house phone number.
The thing never leaves my kitchen and is probably plugged in 95% of the time.
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No problem.
One more thing, pictures would be great too if you can give them to me.
I am going to PM you with my E-mail address...
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Okay, if you can get me your dimensions, I can come up with a simple Dual port design. With a 6x9 port, it should not be too hard.
The port will actually probably end up being 5-3/4" x 8-3/4" internal dimensions, but same thing...
I will have to check what the port noise would be on it though and see if it would be a suitable design.
Do you know what you want it tuned to? And what kind of music you are listening to. These will both affect the design. \
And remember, the more detailed you get your dimensions (Wheel Wells, etc...) the more detailed and custom of a design can be made.
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So, you want 8 cu' after port displacement? And, you want the possibilitiy to use your factory 6x9 opening as a blow though port.
It can be done, and I would actually tell you to prefer it, as long as you don't think losing those 6x9 will kill your overall sound quality. If you are only going to be running front speakers, it would be a really big pain to ride in the back and try to actually listen to the music...
But, what are the dimensions of your trunk?
Because, if you are willing to drop the aero ports and building your own, you could do this design easily.
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Rear facing ports is fine.
Sealing the trunk from the main portion of the car will have limited effect on the "volume" of this setup, but it will have an effect on air movement.
Also, if you plan on playing heavy metal, you want to look past SPL measurements and look towards Delay.
I have my enclosure tuned to 35Hz and it is sometimes pretty offbeat when a good Double-Bass Drum Solo kicks in.
But my delay is pretty high around those frequencies. As a generic statement, tuning lower decreases Delay.
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The formula was to assist in calculating tuning frequency. I have a spreadsheet that kind of does the same thing.
The Torres Calculator doesn't take much as far as resources to run. You sure you can't get it?
What are you running for an operating system? Anything XP or above should run it no problem. If you are running OSX or Linux, it might be another story.
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Yeah, it is Peel'N'Seal.
The vehicle is not currently a daily driver, and I never drive with the windows up (Old Car = No A/C). I only use it to pull a trailer and boat. Other than that it is a toy. I do plan on doing upgrades, and doing the same as you. Using the cheap stuff for now and replacing it when I can. I keep my eyes on DailyDeals from about five different sites (actually how I picked up the Cadence wire about a week ago).
It is a good start, and I have SO MANY ideas, but with the budget being tight for another year or so (Wife finally graduates from Grad School); I have been scraping the barrel where I can to get money to invest in "toys".
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Might want to research this a little more. Is there any reason you are looking for a specific Port Volume?
Tuning frequency is a combination of Port Volume, Number of Ports, and Enclosure Volume.
According to the JL Audio site, they break it down like this...
The correct way to figure out how long each port should be follows this simple three-step procedure:- Divide the chamber volume by the number of ports you wish to use for that one chamber.
- Take the quotient and use that as your Vb (box volume) in the port formula
- Do the number crunching and figure out how long each port should be
So, changing things up will have different effects on how the enclosure / speaker combination works. Are you just working off of a Manufacturer's Recommendation Sheet? If so, they are probably listing the port setup in a specific way in order to counter act Port Noise.
Also, Going with a bigger port is never "worse". It just requires less length than a smaller port.
Finally, remember if you are building your enclosure with the ports inside, exclude port displacement from the enclosure volume before calculating the tuning frequency.
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Vehicle: 94' Ford Explorer Sport 2-dr
Nickname: Midnight
Source Unit: Pioneer Premier DEH-P360
Amplifier: Soundstream PCX1000-D
Subwoofer: 08S12L5-4 -- Kicker 12" Solobaric L5 - Dual 4 Ohm Voice Coils.
The object of this vehicle was to maximize sound with little value (A bang for your buck scenario). I have used (And will continue to use) some unconventional methods to try and cut costs. I love designing enclosure, and have been doing so for friends for quite a while actually (I have designed several big Ported and Bandpass designs). So, I decided to finally put my creativity to work and build my own enclosure. This is not the first box I have built, but this is the first on with more than six cuts required (Standard sealed). I read a lot and even though my hands on experience may be low, I have read everything I possibly could on how to come up with optimal designs.
Cadence 4 AWG wire was to be used throughout.
Sound deadening on drivers door (Passengers Door Looks Exactly the Same)
Sound Deadening on Rear Hatch
Sound Deadening Rear Cargo Floor
Enclosure -- 3.5 Cu' (after displacement and ports) tuned to 35 Hz
Rear Cargo with Amp and Crossovers for Front Mids
Amp mounted with original wiring (Scosche 6 AWG)
Upgraded Cadence 4 AWG ground
Video of the setup running (Sorry I don't have the door panels back on yet)
Future upgrade are to include:
- Replacement Battery Terminal
- Replacement Primary Wire
- Enclosure Cover (Haven't decided on carpet or paint)
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Yessir.... !!!
Patiently waiting...
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Hopefully this shows up in time for when I complete my new build...
Coors light FTW
in Murphys Pub
Posted
Last fall, I had a Pumpkin Spice beer, it was 15.5% and came in a 24oz bottle.... One of the best damn beers I ever had. I ended "wobbling" home since I drank 3-1/2 of them...