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garton05

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Posts posted by garton05

  1. Well ya see in theory, if you have a 270A alternator and back batteries your runs front to rear only have to supply the current that the alt can produce + or - for the voltage drop so lets say 300A depending on length of your runs this could be done with one or two runs of 1/0...

    IF you connect your alternator to the front battery and have the runs going from the front battery to the back batteries, your runs now have to flow the current that the front battery + alternators can discharge, i dont know about you but batteries are rated in CRANKING amps, ya know like 1000CCA <_<

    Now you need a hell of alot more runs right?

    Also mismatching batteries is not optimal.

    Ever seen a SS CRX burp car, how many runs from the front to rear do they have?

    With the jeep i had 1 run of 1/0 per 300A alternator, and had a .1-.2 voltage drop full tilt between front and rear.

    I'm still not catching on all the way. What about a diagram of what your meaning.

  2. If you have 2 big alternators i would run them both to the system...If you have 1 big alternator i would just run it to the system with its own batteries. This is really nice as you dont get headlight dimming or any electrical issues with the car, but you may get ground loop noise if you dont set it all up right.

    I have the stock alternator and DC power 230amp alternator. What do you mean by run them to my system. I was planing on runing both alternators thru my optima battery up front to my XS power d3100 in back then to my 2 AQ2200's. What you think?

  3. Ok so i have yet another stupid question for the pros out there. I want to have a system somewhat like meades with the touchscreen on the dash. Right now i have my Alpine IVA-W205 headunit and i was really wanting to make it so that my second laptop can be mounted inside the truck and i can control lots of stuff in the truck with it over bluetooth. What i planned to have is to use the pc as my main unit to sync music and play music, get a bluetooth keyboard and mouse for it, and use my bluetooth remote to control the system and to control my 3sixty.2. I was wondering how i could, if at all, get my laptops screen to be displayed on my alpine h/u and get the screen to still be touch sensitive to what im doing on it and allow me to control some stuff with it. I really dont want to tear my dash apart to make a custom face to fit a huge screen like meade uses or re-locate my climate control unit because i dont really have all THAT much of a need to go that extreme right now.

    So if anybody knows how i can possibly get my laptop to have an image on my headunit and make it responsive to touch so i can control it please let me know. I know how to get the image on the headunit but making it respond to touch is where im stuck at.

    BTW, the laptop is a dell inspiron 1521.

    How has this head held up for you. I have had nothing but problems with it.

  4. The Audioque amps would be your best bet and wired to a .75 ohm load will be even better. With box rise you can expect to be sitting at over 2ohms probably anyways. I would highly recommend a high amp alt and a big XS Power batt. On that amp. What ohm subs do you have? I was just going off somebody elses post on sub impedance

    Frequency Response . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20Hz to 80Hz

    Nominal Impedance per Coil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Ohms

    Nominal Impedance per Driver . . . . . . . . . . . .2 or 8 Ohms

    Peak Power Handling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2000 Watts

    RMS Power Handling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1200 Watts

  5. Ya I'v never heard of audioque either. they look like nice heavy amps. Will a optima battery work or should i buy one of them XS batterys. How big of a battery would i need for two aq2200d amps. Do you think that two aq2200d is to much amp?

    Optima Yellow Tops work well, although it's always better to go with the best, and you'll pay for it too, but if your not on a budget, definetly go with XS power, get the largest you can afford (leave room for later upgrades) and put it in the trunk, then run it in parallel to your starter batter, with AT LEAST 4 gauge wire, definitely try for 0 gauge. The other option is replacing your starter battery with a compatible sized battery from xs or optima, IF u can find one that will fit AND meet your power requirements. And DEFINETLY DO THE BIG 3. If you don't know what that is, everyone will be happy to explain.

    As for an amp, Soundstream has the DTR series, they're affordable and they're durable. No matter what amp you choose, keep in mind that manufactures will over rate there amps, so unless someone on here tells you an amp is ok, ALWAYS check to see if it is CEA compliant. it will be on the amps data sheet or on the manufacturer's website.

    The big three is Big battery up front witch i have a optima red top, battery in back and what is the third? Ya i know amps are always overrated thats why its taken so long to buy amps. i got the money gotta find the legit one's. thanks

  6. I'v got a 2002 escalade with a alpine IVA-W205 deck with two phoenix gold elite's in a sealed box. The subs take 1200 watts apeice of continuous power handling power. What are some good amp's that will stand the time? Also i had a cheap amp hooked up and my lights were deming even tho i have a cap. How else can i solve that problem? just looking to finsh thing off right!

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