hayabusa boi

I was thinking the same but seen some people run the rear batteries to the chassis and some do front to back batteries. what about grounding the amps. in my truck i just have one d3400 under the hood so i grounded my amps to the chassis. so we ground his amp to the battieries cause i seen lots of people do that and i've seen lots ground them to the chassis to

my cuzin and i are about add a new system to his 2003 trailblazer and wondering whats the best way to wire the batteries, ground the 3 rear batteries to the chassis or run a ground from the front d3400 to the 1st rear d3100 and then jump from neg to neg to neg like we're doing with the power wire.

here is a picture of it didnt have a chance to take one. found that Merzbow had the same problem with his tahoe build OK, with my GM service manuals in hand I've been reading up on the charging system in this vehicle in preparation for the immense amount of work I have to do here. Guess what this is: That's the "battery current sensor" clamp. It fits around the negative cable from the battery to the frame. (Actually, there are TWO negative cables, a big one to frame and a small one apparently just for the headlight assembly return path, but whatever.) This sensor feeds into the BCM (body control module), which also measures voltage. Using these data, the BCM controls the alternator (by adjusting the field current supply, I think). So what's the big deal? Every high-output aftermarket alternator company recommends replacing ground cables from the alt and battery to the frame with 1/0. Great idea, except that if your car has some bullshit like this current sensor hanging off the battery negative cable, and you DON'T migrate that to the new cable, your charging will be FUBAR. Just keeping the OEM cable connected and running a new 1/0 cable is NOT sufficient because the clamp will NOT see the current running through the new cabling. [EDIT: fixed paragraph for accuracy] So what to do? Luckily, it appears this clamp will fit around a 1/0 cable. (The OEM cable is apparently 4-gauge.) So I think I can just do a straight-replace on that cable. Note that there is no way this clamp would fit around MULTIPLE negative cables, nor is there any way to have the BCM control more than one alternator. This is why, if you do a multi-alt setup in this vehicle, it appears best to completely isolate the extra alternators and their batteries (which is what I'm doing).

thanks guys for the info i should have some time off from work this weekend to work on my system. need to do this big 3 bad, can't really bump my system to it fullness cause i'm getting enough power. at night if i try to push it a lil to much, my headlight damn near cut off and if feels like my truck wants to kill.

i have a 2010 Tahoe with a pretty simple system that consists of: Head Unit - Pioneer AVIC - Z130 High Amp - Audiopipe AP-2004 Bass Amp - Audiopipe AP-15001D Door Spk - Boston Acoustics PRO60SE 6.5 Woofers - planet Audio BB215D Question is, The ground wire from the engine block to the battery has some sort of plug around it near the battery and it don't look like a 0 gauge wire can go in it to replace that wire. Would it be ok to just run a 0 gauge from the block to the main battery along side it or do the wire need to go through that plug for proper charging. I plain on adding a second battery under the hood to help my system. Anybody did a big 3 on a tahoe with this plug or climp whatever you wanna call that can advise. thanks