kryptonitewhite
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Posts posted by kryptonitewhite
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Here's < 30Hz tracks from searching Limewire for your guy's posts. I'm not makin vids for a while, too many problems at the moment, but check these out.
Love for Money - Willi the Kid, Trey Songz, LA The Darkman, Bun B, Flo-Rida (my favorite and NOT chopped and screwed! This gets below 20Hz, so chopped must be RHEDICULOUZ!)
Black Tee (remix?) - Crime Mobb, Gucci Mane (if it's not below 30Hz right away then it's not the right mix)
Slumber Party - Gucci Mane, Nicki Minaj (starts at about 2:40, very quick/breif)
Drop it Off - Gucci Mane, Eva Trill (only 25-28Hz but still below 30 I think!)
Waddle - Gorilla Joe, Gucci Mane (This is very close to Hustla Baller, **only** about 30-33Hz less the low harmonic)
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OK, we JUST got the car a few weeks ago and started installing the system. it's not done yet by a long shot. I do not have the big 3 done yet. I do not have a HO alt. however, I used to run 1 red top under the hood and 1 stinger spv70 in the back without big 3 or HO alt in an Olds Cutlass and Dodge Intrepid with ZERO problems. the systems in those were WAY louder and hit much much harder than this one, plus I had a kicker 350.4 and 200.2 in those as well. when I ran the lanzar it, it was at 1 ohm , now only 2 ohm, and before that an inefficient Audiobahn A1500HCT that popped 100amp fuses left and right till I just ran the power wire strait to the battery no fuse.
this one is totally not ready... single 2 ohm coil on a Lanzar OPTI2000D...and it clips very easily. I can hear clipping and I back it off. Sometimes the sub starts to stink a little. The amp is rated 1100 RMS @ 2ohms, but I am going to guess I'm doing no more than 900. We first put 1 redtop under the hood and hooked up 1 of the 5 in back. With 2 hooked up, no big 3 or HO alt, I STILL should not get any headlight dimming even "full tilt" at 2 ohm, but I cant do that or I clip and cook. But we keep it real, real low because of that..and it still dims! Hooked up a second in back and took the extra 3 completely out for now. Same problem... solid grounds for both of them.
What gives? 10 amp draw per battery, so 30 amps now. Just guessing no more than 50 amps for the amp (probobly much less) so yeah yeah, maybe up to 80 amps in addition to normal current draw, but still... i never had that with my intrepid or cutlass!
OLDs... 1 red top, 1 stinger spv 70, 1 Audiobahn A1500HCT 1 Kicker KX350.4 1... no big 3, no HO alt! (had that worthless cap in there for a while, oooh... 1 farad... I'd take 1 battery over 100 farads any day of the week)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/553176
INTREP... lanzar opti 1ohm, kicker 350.4 and 200.2... red top and yellow top, no big 3, no HO, NO DIM!
even ran a XX-Colossus I bought Hexi... but it was damaged, clipped at low power, not near as loud as the other 2 amps... current draw minimal
used to use 8 guage power wire and distro blocks for speaker wire for very low resistance
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http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/tease.gif http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/mega_shok.gif http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif
im waiting
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thats probably what it is, some sort of harmonic - maybe the bass AFTER the bass. Its got a thump then a bunch of wind after that thump, its hard to explain
at least you feel what im talkin about ya I haven't had a sub for quite a while, I'm getting the feel again... with the song I did, 8 Ball, it is a pure tone below 20Hz I think. With the 2 songs I got from you, which 1 seriousely BANGS by the way, it seems there are several different notes creating a lot of other stuff... so its really hard to decipher. Hell the pure tones below 20Hz is really hard to pin point!
But I like...
Did you get a chance to make a vid today? freakin slacker...workin all day.... (I basically got laid off and so did my woman)
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wait a sec, we went and listened to those 2 songs over and over along with that 8 Ball track....
I think I know what you're talking about Steve, I think there's multiple bass lines that are converging to create harmonics. And that Hustla Baller... is AWESOME! It is much louder than everything else. We just cruised for about 2 hours, IDK since my last post anyway.... and when it gets to that song, it actually gets loud.
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whatever they are, i will be able to peak in the area. im good to about 16hz for good output
alright then, try this!
8 Ball : Relax And Take Notes
The camera mic distorts, it is NOT loud, the pic distorts, but it MOVES
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I'm gonna have to agree, 30Hz ish.... but dudes got me onto a Gucci track last nite thats down there below 25Hz, might even be lower than 20... I'll go make a vid in a bit, get the track, and hopefully one of you can run it through an analyzer...
but here's the other 2:
EDIT you gotta wait!
(still not processed
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I totally agree with meade.
free air is just a " slang" that is easier to understand as compared to " infinite baffle"
but when u lay the woofer on the floor and u power it up, it TOO is also called free air.
so 1 term can refer to 2 kinds of application
just like the term " weed".
weed = pot rite?
but weeds are also those shurbs that grow in ur garden? 1 word, 2 applications.
from my understanding, free air application is commonly used in SQ setups. you'll mostly never find a hard bumping 140+ to 150+ setup on a free air application.
the benefits of free air setups is that the sub is able to get insanely low and very easily. thus you'll be achieve the low fill without much effort.
But the cons abt free air is that it will definitely lack the " thump" as compared to a sub in an enclosure if i'm not wrong wrong, power handling wise, it'll not be as strong as that of a sub in a box.
but good thing is, u save space in the trunk!
Lastly, when i mean SQ, i mean REAL SQ, where the sub is more of meant to be felt slightly, but not heard.
YES! I totally agree! Neither is wrong, and slang is to blame. Free air WAS IB, now it's 1:IB, 2:slang for WTF!
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look i dont need crutchfield to tell me this, i already know.......but this is for YOUR info.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-6m0qSJy4ZqF/l...enclosures.html
The type of bass you get from your component subwoofer doesn't depend on the woofer alone. You'll need a strong, tightly-constructed enclosure for optimum subwoofer performance. Speakers without an enclosure can't deliver full bass because the sound from the back of the speaker can cancel out some low frequencies emanating from the front of the speaker.
Using our box-building accessories, you might choose to construct your own box to create the enclosure size that you want. However, unless you have excellent craftsman skills and a solid understanding of enclosure volumes and other technical terms, you're better off purchasing a convenient, professional-looking pre-made enclosure.
Different types of boxes will produce different types of bass:
Sealed boxes: For deep, precise bass
A sealed box is an airtight enclosure housing your subwoofer. A sealed box is best for any music that demands tight, accurate bass. Expect flat response (not excessively boomy), deep bass extension, and excellent power handling. Since a sealed enclosure tends to require more power than a ported box, use an amplifier with ample wattage for optimum performance.
Ported boxes: For forceful bass
Ported boxes use a vent (called a port) to reinforce low bass response. You get more output than you would from a sealed box at any given amplifier wattage. Some people prefer the sound of ported boxes for rock, heavy metal, or any hard-driving music. Ported boxes can deliver deeper bass than sealed boxes, though they need to be much larger than sealed enclosures to accomplish that.
Bandpass boxes: Maximum slam
Bandpass boxes are a special type of ported box designed for maximum slam. The woofer is mounted inside a dual-chambered box (one chamber sealed, the other ported), with the sound waves emerging from the ported side. The sound that comes out of the port is extra loud within a narrow frequency range.
Because bandpass boxes are super efficient within that range, they tend to boom. Their aggressive sound is great for rap, reggae, and hard rock. Not all subwoofers work well in bandpass boxes, though; consult our product information or call one of our Advisors to be sure.
Free-air subwoofers
A free-air system consists of woofers mounted to a board attached to the rear deck or placed in the trunk against the rear seat. The trunk of the car acts as an enclosure which houses the subwoofer and isolates sound from the back of the speaker, solving the sound cancellation problem of subs without an enclosure.
Free-air systems save space and have flat frequency response. The woofer must be specifically designed for free-air use. The lack of a box makes them more convenient to install, but their power handling levels are usually much lower than their boxed counterparts.
when i put the 10 on the tailgate and bumped it, it was just a sub out in the open, cancelling itself out. Its free air in the fact its sitting out but its not a "free air" configuration when talking SPEAKER BOXES. A free air sub is NOT designed to bump without a baffle, it is designed, as Jack said, to be either in a trunk or in a super large enclosure where it has little to no resistance behind it. It still needs to be on a baffle and have the front/rear seperated to eliminate cancelling.
ok, ok... good read. I think most data that has been out there for a while and not updated will say the "old" definition. I think that over time, sometimes words uses are changed, and I feel most of the time today, when someone says "free air" they most likely mean sitting on the floor or tailgate. I think most literature will take time to catch up, and I agree that free air at least was interchangeable with infinite baffle. But I would be willing to bet, 5-10 years from now, litterachur will catch up.
I'm not tryin to argue, this is all IMHO, I just think that what everyone considers something to be today means more than what people may still write down.
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http://kicker.com/sites/default/files/SoloBaricL7Series.pdf
Important Break-In Information
Every Solo-Baric L7 subwoofer is individually computer-tested before shipment to insure the highest performance standards possible.
Like many precision machines, the Solo-Baric L7 requires a break-in period before it will reach optimum performance.
When brand new, the L7-series high performance suspension system is very stiff. After approximately two weeks of daily usage, the suspension
will loosen, or break-in, to a point of equilibrium. This time period may vary depending on the amount of play time, volume level, and type
of music you listen to. More play time, with medium volume levels and more bass content, will break in the subwoofer most quickly.
For those of you with more sophisticated audio equipment, the Solo-Barics can be broken-in on the test bench overnight with the following
procedure.
Solo-Baric Freeair Break-In Procedure
1. Connect the speaker to a power amp of about fifty watts or more. The speaker should not be mounted in any enclosure - just freeair.
2. Connect an audio generator to the input of the power amp, and adjust the generator to approximatley 45Hz for the S8L7, 35Hz for the
S10L7, 30Hz for the S12L7, and 20Hz for the S15L7.
3. Now adjust the gain on the amplifier and generator so that the cone is moving to Xmax. This can be determined visually by looking at the
"blur depth" of the logo on the dustcap. A close approximation will do. On the S8L7 this will be about 3/4", on the S10L7 about 1", on the
S12L7 about 1", and on the S15L7 about 1 1/4".
4. Operate the speakers in this manner for about eight hours. A quick break-in will give acceptable results in four hours, and a very thorough
break-in would be closer to 16 hours.
NOTE: Keep in mind that as the speaker is used under normal conditions the break-in will continue, so if you don't have time for the complete
break-in period the speaker will still break-in itself under normal usage.
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my opinion>useless thread,lost time...we need new enclosure designs,slim and far few between the ones doing infinite baffle...
how much more time did you waste posting in this useless thread when u could have gone on to read about the important new enclosure designs you are speaking of?
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i do believr the "free-air" speaks were designed to work in extremely large enclosure, ie trunk...10-15 cubic feet. but to even get the best out of a free- air sub you need to make the trunk air tight or it will unload on you with too much power. never used free air myself but just what i read back in the early 90's edit....what steve was doing with the 10 on the tailgate is what you call fun
a free air speaker can not unload... it is not supposed to be loaded, hence "free air"
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I like Lady Sovereign, I just couldn't find the daggone CD in anyone's store.
I downloaded a bunch of porn, and I swear to god I got the "if you like me/hate me" music video hahaha....
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well I am totally happy being wrong with the avatar I selected
i've been getting my woman into car audio for a while now, and we're gonna watch the 10" on the T15k again since we're talkin about it
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yeah...free air is no baffle...speaker in the air with nothing around it.
I'm kinda scared to back ya all up on agreement with my original idea, Meade said bumpin is right...
hahaha jus playin! Krypto doesn't want banned! Or his Avatar changed to a flamer in leather, and some messed up signature! :01nocomment8so:
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Totally correct... I was just answering the person that posted after you
IMO Free air = not attached to anything and Infinite baffle = on a baffle but hey that's just me.
haha my bad
and I totally agree, back in the day I bought my very first subwoofer...a 12" Pioneer from Walmart, $75 and a Jensen 300 to run it. (hey, I was in HS, paying rent at my own mothers, and worked at Taco Bell, had to get my own clothes and shit... and those subs were pretty friggen good for $75) so good, after I no longer had it, I later got 2 more and ran it off a Rockford 350a2! They were called "free air" and the manual installation instructions showed mounting them on a board in the rear deck or back seat... and for a long time, free air also meant infinite baffle.
But I think since speaker porn has started and we started running our stuff...well free air, I think free air means more just hookin it up and showing excursion, and IB is specific... but its due to slang???
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wrong....
foreverbumpin is correct.
I guess a quick google of free air subwoofer speaks of mounting it to a rear deck, but in youtube it always shows it sitting on a floor
so I guess that would be the incorrect slang, sitting on a floor nothing attatched, and IB/free air are interchangeable
so when you did the test vid of the HX2 (was it HE2?) 10" on the T15k, what would you call that? and I think your first vid of the Fi BTL 18" when you got it
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free air is infinite baffle, same thing, an imaginary infinite wall that doesn't allow the front wave and rear wave collide= bass
free air means completely unattatched to any baffle
it is sometimes used as slang for infinite baffle incorrectly
if your driver is free air, then the front and rear are allowed to cancell eachother out
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Your trunk isn't sealed The world is the airspace for the woofer...
I never said it was sealed, i said at best it is a very leaky/high flexing sealed enclosure that varies in volume with pressurization. It most certain is not open to the world. CAREFULLY play a sine wave on your system that reaches maximum excursion before damage, then open your trunk or a door. (assuming everything was shut and rolled up).
if u play an IB system with everything shut then pop your trunk, the 2 can't even be compared.
on that note, not only do you need X times the Vas behind the driver, but you need it in front as well. otherwise you could consider any sealed enclosure an IB as long as it was in free space outside....
in other words, even if you have a huge trunk thats 25X vas on 1 side of the driver, the cabin must be as well
even further yet, if you cut a hole in your roof and mounted the speaker in it so one side WAS outside with the whole world as your airspace, the other side, the inside, would still most likely be too small... the whole interior of the car
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so how do you plan to use an infinity baffle woofer inside the trunk of your car? obviously you dont have 25 times the woofers size in airspace inside you're trunk so will the sub only be able to reproduce higher frequencies rather than lower frequencies?
Anyways that cleared up some questions i had about infinite baffle subs but im still not entirely sure on how they work.
what is an infinite baffle woofer? what is an SPL woofer? what is a pro audio woofer?
there is no such thing. all woofers can be used in any application. all woofers are better suited for certain applications than others. Thiele Small parameters help determine this, a common combination is EBP... effective bandwith product, which i am still just barely learning about.
it will produce all frequencies, but the responce curve will vary
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There seems to be a lot of misconception about an infinite baffle, so here goes my stab at it with a link to a forum that has a lot of dedication and experience to them.
What I have gathered:
A baffle is a board a speaker driver is mounted to.
When a speaker is not attatched to anything, and the front and rear wave are completely allowed to go around the driver and are not in any way isolated or coupled, it is free air.
When it is on a baffle, the sound waves are forced to travel further to intersect. The smaller the baffle, the higher waves (upper frequencies) are no longer cancelling out as the baffle separates them. As we increase the baffle size, the longer it gets, the lower the waves that no longer cancel depending on 1/4 wavelength and total wavelength.
The 1/4 wavelength for 33Hz is 8.5 feet, the total wavelength is 35 feet. For a driver to effectively recreate 33Hz without any cancelation and all the way up from there, the baffle would have to be 35 feet out from the driver, or a total of 75 feet in diameter.
An infinite baffle is a "sealed" ROOM with a minimum airspace of 25 times the drivers Vas, so that the driver does not "see" the enclosure. Anything less, and the air acts as a spring.
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paper airplanes is sweet
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made some excursion vids with a DVD player disc tray and laser guide
this is what happens when i get bored
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i figured it was something to do with transfer functions, but i wanted to know details=)
port is NOT LOADED, it is in an armrest, firing straight into the cabin, and at ~18sqin/cube, its friggin massive
amp gains/setting are untouched from last install, subwoofer volume on deck is low for break in (like -8 when amp does full potential at 0, subs cant really take full power, so its going to be staying lowish, till i get L7's)
and the subs, i dont know how much they can be loading off glass about a foot away, thats what was bugging me, that it seems so darn open, i knew cabin gain had something to do with it, but jeeze, playing 15-20hz below tuning is kinda strange IMHO.
Ive been told to tune to 32-33hz for daily, but come on, if i get more spl out of 42, and it can still play high 20's, what could possibly be the upside of tuning low?
edit: 2 pics so ya'll know what i mean, i know i cant explain worth a shit
port:
subs:
i know its ugly, im cleaning it up when i go home, it was a day before going back to college cuz i need bass job, in the middle of the night in snow
thats gotta b the most interesting install ive seen in a grip
at least you feel what im talkin about .gif){kind=small}
Love For Money- Willie The Kid
in Tunez - All things music related
Posted
I don't think those analyzers can read below 25-30Hz, cuz it MUST be lower!
I LOVE this track!!