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kryptonitewhite

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Posts posted by kryptonitewhite

  1. hm.... i have always mounted amps on my boxes, but i shock mount them so idon'thave to worry about the amp vibrating from the box. lol but thats not good having your amp get shorted from the screws coming out

    Bills

    I usually cut 2 1" wide boards and mount the ends of the amp on them so I have it spaced for cooling... but even then screws were coming loose

    The enclosure takes up most of the hatch, a little room... barely... on all sides.... no where to secure it other than the box!

    I'm using different kinds of security screws so a theif would have to have several different security bits to get the sub... Id like to do the same with the amp

  2. I would not unless it's last solution. 150 db will vibrate things a lot!

    I agree... though I might get over 130's LOL

    I want an anti-theaft way to mount it with security screws, but other than the box, I've got nowhere to bolt it down

  3. Maybe askin in the maxxonics section on here will yeild a better answer from someone that works on them. The 200watts or so that will be missin wont be that noticable either. i would really like a definite answer on actual hifonics power too, but most ppl say its a little over rated

    i guess my main concern is the lanzar want't nearly enough power for my IB3 18. I am hoping the BXI has just enough more... basically I had it figured out on the volume knob where I could listen for a long period of time VS where if I listened too long the sub would get a bit warm/stinky. At that same point I noticed going any louder wouldn't actually make the sub much louder... so i think it was clipping... and if I pushed it just a bit more again I could hear a little clipping.

    So guessing the sub wanted 200-400 more watts, if this hifon makes 200-400 more watts at 2 ohms as well, it should be perfect.

  4. Number 1: I have a weird thing for sub-sonics. 10 hertz to 20 hertz can be kinda neat.

    Number 2: is I'm still old school with old fashion beliefes and feel when building a sound quaility vehicle a sealed enclosure is the best way to go.

    Now we have companies like FI,DC,DD and hell even my original Kicker L7s are subwoofers that have either excellent SQ or from what I have read have excellent SQ in ported enclosures.

    And If I run DC I will have to use ported encloses, but I think my next subs are going to be 4 10 inch Kicker SOLO Classics once the price evens out on Ebay.

    I put a word out to a man about an 18 but I don't know if I'll hear back from him.

    http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy...-effects-2.html

    http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....4047&page=3

  5. dual 2 and not much. I should be gettin some more bday $ and im workin on gettin a job so no more than 200

    well I may want an audiopipe, so would u b interested in my BXI2608D that I havent even received yet? BNIB from the ebay company everyone recommends.... it should be here in a day or 2

  6. I wouldnt set it with just a DMM or try to do 1500watts. Its been said by almost everyone that hifonics doesnt do all its rated power. maybe ~1300. but i never tested mine with the right equipment to see if it put out rated power. even if i did i wouldn know if it was clipped or not. But using a DMM along with a clamp meter will better set the power. i found some decent clamp meters on ebay for 25 bucks.

    the test tones.. it may just have to do with box tuning. music isnt always at peak frequecy. and when they put the music together it my be eq'ed low. not totally sure on that though

    see now this really pisses me of, I've been amp shoping here and on ROE for at least a month or a few... and I kept getting told the hifonics do rated. I kept asking "so if the hifon does 2600 for $350 and the kicker does more than rated, but for double that, why arent the prices closer? even if a kicker does 3000... why is it double a hifon?"

    and everyone said hifon does rated

    now that I bought one, on ROE yesterday someone said the same shit... that they DONT!

    Anyway, so the reason I switched from the AP30001D to the BXI2608D was because discrepencies in the IB3 22". On HTS it is said to have the same VD as 2 18's. So I wanted the AP for a 2ohm load. But later in the IB322 thread on HTS, it seems to be said to only have an Xmax of 30mm... same as the 18's... so VD will NOT be the same as 2 18's, as Sd of a 22 is not double the Sd of an 18... so Xmax must be higher. Then I am also told the IB3 motor wasn't strong enough, so they were bumping up to a Q motor... well that's still not over 30mm

    so i decided on a pair of IB3 18's, 1 ohm load. So at the last minute my dumbass went with the BXI instead... now everone is saying it doesnt do rated, and, i got more IB3 22 info...

    fuck

    anyone have a perfectly good AP30001D willing to swap for a BNIB never used BXI? I haven't even received it yet... in the next 2 days. and no, not a pair of 1500's.. too much wire mess

  7. Lower the ohms the more power draw from the power supply, more amperage draw, closer to a short circuit

    yes most amps do make more power at lower impedances, or if you have a 2ohm stereo amp, if you bridge it@ 4ohms, it makes the best power that way

    I understand what you're getting at, but when they are testing them and rating them, I hope it is with a constant supply voltage

  8. the 30001 does 1500 per channel at 1 ohm....its 1 ohm per channel, with 1500 on each channel

    IMG00214-20090223-1605.jpg

    dude, you are the reason I ORDERED an AP30001D... I actually ordered one from 97 maxima after you gave me lots of great info and pics... thanks BTW... however, since I had to wait a while for shipping, I decided not to purchase just yet in case something came up... and something did... so I had to go with a 1 ohm amp instead.

    In the pic, it looks like 2 ohm bridged/1 ohm stereo 3000 watts, but at 4 ohm bridged/2ohm stereo 1800 watts... so not quite 1/2, which makes more sense

    so why the more reputable/expensive kicker doing the 1/2 and double?

  9. I ran a BXi1608d at two ohm before and it ran great, it shouldnt clip unless you have your settings to high

    I'll be using a DMM and setting it to 1500 watts or less with a sine wave...

    this brings me to something I've wanted to post about for a while now...

    when I have my music "cranked up" and then I go to 0dB test tones, obviousely I have to turn the deck WAY down. So when I am setting my gains with the deck way up and a test tone, I can see the benifit that I will actually be using much less power, but, doesn't that waste a lot of the amp? If I have my volume 80% with a sine wave to set it, when I play music, I will have consderably less overall power in general

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