Jump to content

TeddyG

Members
  • Posts

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by TeddyG

  1. Hello all I was wondering if anyone could help me set up my remote start unit for my 2004 Pontiac grand am SE 1 V6. I'm confused by the ignition 1 wire with no fuse and where it supposed to connect to my ignition harness wire looks like this (http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=1161&link=DW) And my ignition 1 line is supposed to be pink. However I'm confused as to why i have two ignition 1 line and only one ignition 2 line (Dark green) I already split the starter line which is yellow any help would be appreciated! :)

  2. ADS al-ca works pretty effing well for your car itll do door locks, trunk , immobilizer, and oem alarm and disarm, will also do tach output to the starter. hardwire bypass to the starter for viper, vipers dont like data connections trust me ive had enough remote start checks to know that, easier to do it right the first time. rememmber to program the tach too.

    just put a 5902 with an al-ca in my 2003 silverado, just need to program the tach and she``ll work just beauty.

    Hey how do I program if without the weblink software? It says i need to be a registered installer

  3. I'd go H/O route.

    Seems I'm the only one on most forums that way this.

    I like producing current, not adding another battery which could draw current from your alternator and give you worst voltage.

    In some cases alternators cost to much vs output. Or some cars just don't have good H/O options. Even some cannot be upgraded due to factory ECM.

    What vehicle do you have?

    2003 Pontiac grand am 3.1L V6

    I have that same car, Mechman has a direct bolt on large case alt that fits, it does 165amps at idle and 270amps at 1800rpm. It is 449 dollars, IMO that would be the best bet, especially since if you upgrade in the future all you will have to do is add a battery in the trunk. So I would do the alt first, I wish I would of went that route when I had the funds.

    off-topic

    Thats ironic lol I'm buying that DC lvl 4XL 15 from 99GPX that he got from you

    It is definatly a task to get a box that fires into the cabin sealed off with it but is doable, if you want I can get you the outside measurements for the box I had in there, I had to take off the taillights to get that extra half inch on eachside but it sqeezed in there with help from a friend, IIRC it was about 3.3-3.4cubes after sub/bracing/port displacment using 2 4" Aeroports tuned to 28hz.

    That would be helpful man I never thought of using aero ports for the port and yeah send me those measurements so I can see how you did it.

  4. I'd go H/O route.

    Seems I'm the only one on most forums that way this.

    I like producing current, not adding another battery which could draw current from your alternator and give you worst voltage.

    In some cases alternators cost to much vs output. Or some cars just don't have good H/O options. Even some cannot be upgraded due to factory ECM.

    What vehicle do you have?

    2003 Pontiac grand am 3.1L V6

    I have that same car, Mechman has a direct bolt on large case alt that fits, it does 165amps at idle and 270amps at 1800rpm. It is 449 dollars, IMO that would be the best bet, especially since if you upgrade in the future all you will have to do is add a battery in the trunk. So I would do the alt first, I wish I would of went that route when I had the funds.

    off-topic

    Thats ironic lol I'm buying that DC lvl 4XL 15 from 99GPX that he got from you

  5. I'd go H/O route.

    Seems I'm the only one on most forums that way this.

    I like producing current, not adding another battery which could draw current from your alternator and give you worst voltage.

    In some cases alternators cost to much vs output. Or some cars just don't have good H/O options. Even some cannot be upgraded due to factory ECM.

    What vehicle do you have?

    2003 Pontiac grand am 3.1L V6

×
×
  • Create New...