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ROBERT 04XBLZ

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Posts posted by ROBERT 04XBLZ

  1. I was thinking about taking the SMD logo at the top left of the forum pages (Street Motivated Devastation) and making it into a vinyl for my rear window on my car. Figure this could help get the word out and get some people to think.

    I need to know if this would violate and copyrights or if this is even copyrighted, because I am really interested in putting this on my rear window as a banner.

    Thanks

    i can make the logo with his permission

  2. That port area and box size doesnt seem right to me. You have 2 18s in less then 10 cubes. Unless you have gobs of power on them, try redesigning your box and I imagine you will see a world of difference in those woofers.

    thats what i got off of re audios site. on their box calculator. 10 cubes is about as much as i can get out of the back with out taking the back seats out and i really dont want to do that haha. what do you suggest? i like it being tuned around 30hz moves lots of air. had a box in there tuned way higher and like 6 cubes and it sounded nasty.

  3. not to get off topic but how much port do you have and how do your btls sound in 9.5 cubes thats right up my alley in an s-10 i used to have 2 in a durango in about 12.5 cubic ft

    its sounded really good and loved the lows. tuned to 30.185hz port length 21. 25 square port area 93.75

  4. 2 18" BTLs

    vs

    4 15" BTLs....

    simple... the 4 15's more cone area and 2x the power...

    even though its sealed? will it hit the lows good with it being sealed?

    its still going to be the same amount of power though.

  5. right now i have two btl 18 ported tuned around 30hz around 9.5 cubes.

    i was thinking about going with 4 15's not sure what subs yet say btls just so that its easier to answer my question.

    so 4 15s sealed around 11 cubes.

    or 2 18s btl ported both set ups will be running on dd z2lv. what will be louder and sound good?

  6. ------------------------------------------------------

    ,,, i also meet a girl, who the first time she emailed me we talk for like 6hr on skype,.. she lived real close to me,.. i meet her at her work,..

    3 years later were still together and very happy,.. true and very odd..

    anyone else?

    yea same here been with my girl over a year now. and we couldnt be happier we met on myspace. hahaha. the best decicsion ive ever made in my life.

  7. ya, you probly could. but you don't want to. cause that would be the same as running two amps at .25 ohms. and think about this for how to figure out how you can tell what each amp sees. ok. 2 ohms straped, each amp is seeing 1 ohm. so if your amps are 1 ohm stable your ok. just cut everything in half. and having an amp at .25 ohms. you should only be burping and still its not even close to safe. because with that you pull a lot of current. hope that made sense. haha

    Bills

    so if i was to wire my subs where they would be at .5ohm. each amp would see .25? then if i was to wire them to 2ohm then each amp would see 1 ohm? hmm. now i have a question on the purpose of the maxxlink. these amps have a master slave option. would i need the maxxlink?

  8. Absolutely bills. You more than likely see less box rise if you were to run one amp per sub. I tested this in my case and this is what I got. I had a single Crunch GP3000D running at 1 ohm nominal. When I would play a burp and get my power readings I would calculate for impedence rise and would get a reactive load of 3.88 ohms and the power output was only at 1900 watts. Now I have 2 Sundown 1500d's and they are wired each at .5 ohms. So you see the option of wiring lower right off the start because instead of having my one amp at 1 ohm I can run each amp at .5 which will produce more power right away. Anyway back to the amps are at .5 ohms nominal and when they are burped and rise is calculated they are at 1.45 ohms each. Thus each amp is producing 2000 watts a piece rather than one amp producing 1900 watts by itself.

    Now in your case this is how that would work and this is just an example and the real numbers may be different. Now let's say that you strap the amps at 2 ohms like you wanted to. You are going to get a bit more efficiency at a higher ohm load but you will still have the rise effecting the power output. So at 2 ohms nominal let's say when burped you see something like 5.4 ohms reactive. Usually impedence rise follows in doubles such as 1 ohm, 2 ohms, 4 ohms, 8 ohms... So 5.4 is being a bit generous but it's just an example. Now the amps are capable of 6K at 2 ohms strapped and that's without any rise at all. At 5.4 ohms you would probably make in the 3000 watt or so range give or take a few watts. Now you move on to running a single amp per sub with the gains matched and you have each amp at a 1 ohm nominal load. You play a burp and calculate rise and if it carries the same trend as before you will be close to 4 ohms on each amp. But as I stated before with my single GP3000 it made 1900 watts at 3.88 ohms so I would expect the same amount of power or a bit more if you have a decent electrical system to help them out. So right off the bat in power you've went up from 3K to 3800 watts increasing spl by just choosing to wire different.

    I can't guarentee the amount of power you will make because I just made up numbers to give an example, but in my case and the case of several others by running a single amp per sub instead of strapping them has resulted in louder bass and higher spl scores. It's something for you to think about and you have the option of wiring it both ways and putting it on a spl meter and seeing which one is actually louder. Sorry about the book, but I had to try and explain it all.

    not a problem id rather someone write a lot than to answer with a couple words like google or search button. thanks. im just going to wire them seperate then. saves me money now too lol.
  9. I believe that the amp is 19-20" long X 9-9.5" wide. I never got around to measuring mine but I think that those are the dimensions that I read in the manual when I got it. I would expect in the 5k-6k range on two of those amps strapped at 2 ohms if you can keep your box rise at a minimum, otherwise they won't make near that power and you'd be better off running an amp per sub or per pair of subs if your going with 4 or more.

    well i have two btls d2. so i would have to wire it at 2ohm? this will be the first time i strap amps. if you or anyone can explain to me how it works?

  10. i have looked everywere for 1 for mi car no won haves or makes nothing semilar

    hmm well you can talk to missinglinkaudio (mla) they have their own section towards the bottom or go to missinglinkaudio.com they sell unit that can up your voltage and that would be cheaper and easier to install. and you keep your stock alternator. hit him up he is a really cool guy and have heard nothing but good things about his product.

  11. robert your seeing i mith be ok with the 2 yell.top's

    yea you should be good. but an alt would help tons. i had that amp 2 fi btl 18's and i was dropping voltage down in the 10s and that was with a yellowtop stock alt. i like that amp alot its pretty good on price and pushed my subs pretty good.

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