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mrd6

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Posts posted by mrd6

  1. Oh man, thought i should share this...its from the comments on a youtube video i randomly saw, i don't even remember what i was looking for when i found it. Pretty funny though(slightly painful). For reference, the video itself was a 10 second wall socketing of an old kenwood or something, nothing exciting.

    • haha nothing like running good ole AC through your sound system... NOT!!
      donttouchme124 1 year ago pixel-vfl3z5WfW.gifpixel-vfl3z5WfW.gifpixel-vfl3z5WfW.gifpixel-vfl3z5WfW.gif

    • umm idk maybe DC idiot learn some shit before posting a dumbass comment that only makes u look bad
      dawggg101 1 year ago

    • Really? You think the output of an amplifier is DC?
      swbari00 1 year ago

    • i know really, whoever thinks it's dc is crazy...
      codex653 1 year ago

    • uhmm yeah go to ur amp plug in a multimeter put it on DC and watch the volts go uuuuuuuupppppppppp because it is DC and btw ive done it before dumbass
      dawggg101 1 year ago

    • your a fuckin moron. Just accept it.
      rckr68 1 year ago

    • wait! doesnt AC come out of the wall HMMMM YEAH it does so why when he plugs a subwoofer into the wall IT MOVES ONE WAY unless he reverses it AND THEN BLOWS! ohh yeah because it is DC that comes out of an amplifeier because if it was AC then the sub would blow when you hooked it up to the amp ohh now it makes sense! dumbass
      dawggg101 1 year ago

    • but btw im talking about a home receiver amp idk what ur talking about but i have measured it beore
      dawggg101 1 year ago

    • wait if u meant that as a serious question then Yes. i do think that but if u meant it to be like im wrong than... Ur a dumbass
      dawggg101 1 year ago

    • Jesus. It's AC. Hook a battery up to a speaker and the damn thing moves ONE direction and stays there until you remove the battery. The direction it moves depends on which way you hook up the battery. If you could ALTERNATE that current, the speaker would move in and out. LIKE ALTERNATING CURRENT, YOU KNOW. AC. Hook your DMM to an amp and set it to auto detect. It will BLOW your mind :)
      swbari00 1 year ago

    This guy never responded but there were these!

    • JPutting it in the wall is like playing a 0hz sine wave. Wich is just pure electricity. Wich will melt the inner parts together. Nice fuckup (Y)

    RCdude101 1 year ago

    Ah yes i hate it when we get that dirty electricity from our amps rather than that pure wall electricity.

    • ... DUH that can handle almost two wall sockets
      spike1master 3 years ago

    DUH. WOW my subs are rated at 2 wall sockets rms and 4 wall sockets peak!

    Oh and this comes out of nowhere....

    • I agree... like Michael Jackson probably can't stop watching!
      PeteA216 3 years ago

    • fucking moron who would wonder besides mentally retarded homosexual pedophiles
      BilliardsPlayer777 3 years ago

    • Are you even in the correct website?!
      Cry4H3lp 3 years ago

    .

    .

    .

    .....Wuuuuut?

    Anyways enjoy

  2. They'd be custom crossovers. You would need to design and build them. "the12volt," or whatever that site is called, has a calculator.

    I have no idea in hell how to do that i cant get a EQ?

    an EQ alone wont work. It wont be able to attenuate the frequencies outside your desired bandwidth enough to be effective, at higher volumes it just wont cut it. Look in to making crossovers, its not as hard as it sounds to design and assembly is only soldering

  3. Id just go stinger if i were you. Its super easy to set up since it already has the remote turn on and the fact that you can count on it working consistently without worrying about random failures is worth the extra money to me. One well designed voltmeter from stinger that i can reuse in all of my rebuilds is way better than some cheap thing i find on ebay imo. A lot of electronics will do what you need for awhile but the ones that do it for as long as you need are the ones worth buying. Again this is just my opinion, more power to you if you find something cheaper that works just as well tho!

  4. Ok, guys, small change. I would like to add one more McIntosh 300 watt amp for a total of 1000watts hooked up to a 15" JL Audio 13w6v2 sub.

    Does this alter anything power wise? I will be doing the "Big three" of course and am planning on running one of the 3100 batts up front as well as one in the back by the amps. Zero gauge power and ground wires run to batts and amps.

    Thanks again,

    P.S. Tentative starting place for xover is the following:

    15" sub -- 40hz and below

    10" subs -- 40hz to 150hz

    6.5" midbase -- 150hz - 750hz

    4" mid -- 750hz to 10khz

    tweets -- 10khz and up.

    Don't mean to thread jack but this caught my eye.

    What mid do you plan to run that will play up to 10khz without breakup? Ive been looking into 4 in mids for my rebuild and for sq (which i assume you are going for since ur using McIntosh amps) i have found that very few mids sound that good/should be crossed above 5k. Im just curious what you have in mind!

    To the original quesion tho, you will be fine with that small power. Depending how you listen to your system, i would say you could probably get away without the extra battery in the trunk. Just the stock alt, big three, and single 3100 up front

  5. I have heard the AQs do well tuned around 36hz and still reach down plenty low into the twenties once broken in. Try raising your tuning a bit and see if you can get that port area per cube to 16 for these subs and see if you can still make the two fifteens fit.

    If not, youll be much happier with a single 18 or 2 12s with optimum box specs than two fifteens that aren't able to reach their potential.

    Sorry about the ticket, that sucks. Hopefully you can get to this box sooner than later. Good luck!

  6. Not sure if you like it or not but the stripe down the side really dates the truck and i think it would look alot better without it. Depending if it is a decal or if it is not under the top clear coat it can be removed without a new paintjob. Thats probably what i would start with if i were you.

    I did it on my truck and it looks way better. Its quite a bit of work but cost wise its super cheap to do yourself.

    Do it on a hot day (shouldnt be a problem since youre in california) and get a spray on tar remover or something to spray on it and let soak in then just try to scrape/rub off and repeat over and over again. It gets tiring but is worth it in the end.

    Then some cheap black rims (or white depending on your style) and a tint or something and alittle trim work and that truck could look pretty sick.

    Good luck dude!

  7. Punctuation's not a joke. No one had any idea what you are asking. We want to help but can't if no one understands what you are saying.

    To what I think the original question is: Haven't heard any Saturn wagons but i have heard audi and subaru wagons. They can sound good just like any car when done right. Good luck with your build man, seems like it would be pretty unique.

  8. I was at my local Car Toys to check out alarm install prices and started talking to one of the guys there and he seemed to know what he was talking about (not to say I'm an expert by any means) but I started talking to him about my plans for my front stage and he said "why don't you run the components in parallel to drop it to a 2 ohm load and it will save you the rear channels for something else in the future" my mind was blown. I asked if that was possible to connect the passive cross overs in parallel without them getting all fuckered up he said yes but a little voice in my head said "nah, muh fucka don't do it. It's a trap"

    Is this possible? I feel so boot (noob) asking this but this is the place to ask.

    If you mean you're thinking about running the left set in parallel with the right then that's definitely possible but you would lose stereo left to right.

    But i think you are talking about wiring the tweeter parallel to your midrange...and in that case i'm pretty sure you had it right above. As far as i know, there's no way to wire them to that load while they are still using the passive crossover and all that. Its an interesting idea though i'm not sure why no one else has chimed in

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