mrd6
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Posts posted by mrd6
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Even he doesn't know!
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How much air space do you have?
the zv4s will be louder if you cant give enough space for all of the xs...
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And also, 2 runs of 1/0 where? Front to back?
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Perfect power IMO
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My town just got a streetcar, the grand opening is either tomorrow or sunday and they're already getting trolled on Facebook lol
No, no. Bullshit, there's no way someone is that stupid and nobody said anything about it.
Haha could easily be real. We have the South Lake Union Transit..."Ride the SLUT!"
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^previous owner of that terra?
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What benefit does that basket option have?
...besides looking super badass lol
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Not necessarily...rise is frequency dependent. A 3.5k per xl could be too much. I've seen a few blow on similar power.
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Very likely...but also a 3.5k per xl is pushing it a bit. Ypu could just be reaching thermal limits of the subs with clean power
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In all likelihood yes...but there's still always that chance it wont
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You can get nsv3s or team subs now, you just have to know the right people
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I see this getting out of hand quickly....
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I thought #3 had an extra whisker but it was just a crack in my phone screen fmlLook at the eyes homie
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Man...this thread...
Let's sum it up, AMM-1 is not the only way you can get reasonably accurate power results. Using a scope with true rms clamps and meters will get you there. That being said, the AMM-1 takes alot of the work and math out of it for those who could not do it otherwise. It's a tool, like any other tools, there is always another way. If you use a jig saw to make your sub cut outs why buy a router and circle jig? Because it is easier to get good results. But that doesn't mean the guy who uses the jig saw is suddenly doing it wrong. The same logic can be applied to this situation.
Clamping with the right tools and knowhow will give you accurate results. Im sure this is why Taylor and that sinterman dude as well as myself are frustrated after reading through here and watching the vid, since it is suggesting that clamping will never be accurate which is really not the case. I think the AMM-1 is an awesome tool but it's just kinda shitty to start misleading the general audio community for a marketing campaign...intentional or not, it's happening
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8
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slomo of silva's kick
HOLY SHIT
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Did I say they're the answer to every box building scenario?
As most people understand, box building is a series of trade offs.... especially in the limited space we have in car audio. So if the recommended port is too large, you can reduce the size.
How much can you reduce the size? Ask that question in a civil manner and someone will probably answer you. ;-)
That all im saying, people keep recommending those calculators, but give no additional explanation to help the OP. In reality, the "recommended" port area is almost never feasible or even necessarily the loudest or best sounding for a given scenario.
So in the end, how is it even helpful?
I didn't elaborate because I didn't think to because I'm doing other things as well. But asking usually gets a more detailed answer.
And I trust that you've built boxes with the recommended port area and then built the same box with less port area in order to test these calculators and have some evidence for your claim? The reason I ask is that I've had a lot of success using the correct port area, so I'm wondering what sort of scenario you're talking about.
Some times yes. Ive shrank port area before, kept tuning and box volume the same and gained on the meter. But other times, ive had better results with more port area. In my experience it is trial and error, rather than make the port as large as you possibly can as the calculator suggests. That's the part of this whole theory that I have a problem with ya know?
One scenario where this might hold true is where your port requires alot of 180 degree turns to get to proper length with a large port area. In some situations you'll be louder with a straight port with no turns that has less port area.
But, so back to the OPs question...what would you recommend you do port wise using that calculator for his situation?
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Those metal ports are insane. That one was 19" port for the bandpass box is NUTS.
I think if you're going to go those metal ports, go for twin 5" ports or twin 6" ports. If 5 cubes net and tuning at 32 Hz, only 17" length needed. If the 6" option, they'll need to be quite a bit longer at 25" in length. Two 5" aeros should be enough, twin 6" ports would be where I would go with it.
Right?! They look awesome painted up nicely too.
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Did I say they're the answer to every box building scenario?
As most people understand, box building is a series of trade offs.... especially in the limited space we have in car audio. So if the recommended port is too large, you can reduce the size.
How much can you reduce the size? Ask that question in a civil manner and someone will probably answer you. ;-)
That all im saying, people keep recommending those calculators, but give no additional explanation to help the OP. In reality, the "recommended" port area is almost never feasible or even necessarily the loudest or best sounding for a given scenario.
So in the end, how is it even helpful?
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LOL okay so with those calculators say we are tuning to 30hz...we need about a 12" diameter port....with a 5 cube box that port needs to be 60 inches long to get to a 30hz tuning...
Do you really think those calculators are the answers to every box building scenario?
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^Not a typo, custom metal flared ports.
I'll be using a few in my 6th. I think the 9 will work just fine for you OP.
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Its amazing how quickly people forget how to drive when it starts to snow
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Whats mother ofngod about that? Its just a wall with low port area
hahaha exactly, my first thought was I bet that would be louder with only 3 18s and more port
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In the info.. no tablet used
well shit haha
New SUNDOWN amps - CAPPED monsters.
in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
Posted
^You're not alone there...