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mrd6

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Posts posted by mrd6

  1. Nate took the words right out of my mouth. No one cares...this thread is old as fuck and its clear your only goal is to try to show off whatever little bit of knowledge it is you think you have, when all you are talking about is basic interference patterns like its some impressive shit lol.

    Post some of your work up so we can tear it apart from a technical standpoint, sounds like fun to me ;) but quit cluttering this thread and start your own. Let us all be witness to your audio godliness

  2. For a true full SQ setup I would shy away from any bandpass enclosures unless you plan on having other drivers that will also play the same frequency range. The reason for this is that due to the nature of how bandpasses work they do a great job at reproducing the fundamental frequencies but tend to filter out the harmonics of notes. It is the harmonics of specific instruments that give them their realism and specific sound signature. If you lose these you will lose alot of detail in your low end....just thought I would throw that out there for your consideration. If you arent dead set on a 4th, consider going another direction...

  3. Look at tuning lower then around 43hz, with a 2:1 ratio you should crush that frequency range and still have a nice roll off up in the mid 50hz area.

    You want your sealed chamber to be whatever size causes it to have a sealed resonance the same as your tuning. Or another way of looking at it, you want your sealed impedance peak to be at your tuning frequency. Some box building software will be able to get a good estimate on what size sealed enclosure that would be but imo if youre investing this much into the build I would build up a small test sealed enclosure for one of the 15s and measure it until you find the correct size sealed per 15. It will probably be around 2 cubes but even being .25 cubes off in eaither direction can hurt your output by a few dbs. So be ready to test!

    Thanks for taking me to school lol. I'm glad someone else chimed in to help bc box designs give me a headache, and I know net to nothing about 4th's. I just read him DC's specs. :drinks:

    Haha yeah, there are a few ways to design 4ths. This is the way I have read to go about it and it has turned out some great results in the 4ths I have built.

    So how do i figure out what sealed side resonance is. I thinking 11.3 cubes with subs in i was i will have ,how do i go about this

    You need to test it. There really is no way to guess perfectly. If I were building this system I would build a big sealed box say 3 cubic feet after displacement of a single 15. Put the level 3 in the box and measure the sealed resonance. It will probably be too low. So then shrink the box by some known quantity, for example say shrink it down to 2 cubes. Then measure it again, this time it might be too high so you know you will need more airsplace so you try 2.25 cubes next. Basically keep going back and testing like that until you nail down the sealed resonance that you want. The easiest and most accurate way to take the sealed resonance is with an SMD IM-SG, you can hook it up to the terminals and it will read out the resonance on the screen, doesn't get much better than that haha.

    Once you have the sealed size for 1 15 just multiply it by 6 of course and thats what you've got.

    When I built a 4th order for my XL 15's I only did 1.5 cubes sealed side per sub. That seemed to work out well.

    Higher motor force subs generally can get a low enough resonance in smaller enclosures, so a level 3 will probably need a larger box.

  4. Look at tuning lower then around 43hz, with a 2:1 ratio you should crush that frequency range and still have a nice roll off up in the mid 50hz area.

    You want your sealed chamber to be whatever size causes it to have a sealed resonance the same as your tuning. Or another way of looking at it, you want your sealed impedance peak to be at your tuning frequency. Some box building software will be able to get a good estimate on what size sealed enclosure that would be but imo if youre investing this much into the build I would build up a small test sealed enclosure for one of the 15s and measure it until you find the correct size sealed per 15. It will probably be around 2 cubes but even being .25 cubes off in eaither direction can hurt your output by a few dbs. So be ready to test!

  5. So, since this info seems to be non-existant...I would love it if any of you running the new lvl 5 18s could run the parameters for one of these and post it up here. My m1 xls are reaching their limits with the power I am throwing at them and I would like to be able to upgrade to the new 5s if the parameters are what i am looking for.

    Anyone at DC could do this too! Seems kinda weird that no one has actually haha

    Thanks in advance!

  6. Your sig says 2012 Psychlone trunk champ so I believe you when you say you know what you are doing? Even though your original post doesn't really suggest so lol. But to answer your questions, yes dc amps generally do well when wired down with proper electrical by those with the experience to do so. They are strong well built amps. And with lvl4 coils on the 3 motor I would bet they could take that power just fine.

    Put up a build for it if you stick around here and welcome to SMD!

  7. I think comparsion threads @ SMD are forbidden incase of a predication against the higher reality, inb4lock.

    PS. Geta Sundown SA 8

    lol at this fail post :-0

    Haha this! Telling someone no vs threads than saying they should get another 8 instead of the ones mentioned lol.

    But to the OP, I think I have heard ma is more daily sq based while the vvx is better for higher output goals? Could be totally off base here tho hopefully someone with more experience with the products can help you out

  8. Bear with me here If i use sub terminology wrong but hopefully this makes sense:

    To deal with the voice coil size/suspension travel problem, why not design some kind of tapered coil former? Basically, you have the former for the size for your 3 inch coil to get your thermal power handling up and then taper it in above that to be thinner where the spiders attach giving them more space to be longer and allow for more travel?

    Granted, I imagine this would increase the mounting depth quite a bit and require many more custom tooled parts but, could it be worth it? Has this been done before?

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