SwaggerWagon
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Posts posted by SwaggerWagon
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I had a yellowtop under the hood, and the big 3 in my old car with a 130 amp alt. I was running to old SVC Punch P2 12's on an AQ750. Electrical wasn't much of an issue. My buddy's jeep had an XS under the hood and a D3400 in the back with the big 3 and a 270 amp HO alt. He bought a second battery for the back, and now the AQ doesn't have any problems. The electrical should have been fine with both setups. But again, I'm not bashing AQ, I've just had bad luck with em.
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Ask any of the DC reps or anyone who runs DC amps.. I've heard nothing but good things, but that's just what I've read, not from personal experience. I've had bad experience with AQ amps. Not saying they're a bad brand, but my good friend and I have both used them and had light dimming problems and had issues with the amps going into protect mode. My buddy finally bought a second battery, and I switched to some RF amps.. pricey but reliable. just my 2 cents
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I have the XAV-60 HU (6-inch non BT. Otherwise same HU) and I have the same problem.
I have found that when resetting the HU, make sure you tell it that there is a subwoofer connected. Then adjust the Crossover's accordingly (as well as bass boost on the same screen) and the EQ accordingly.
After doing all this the subwoofer can be manipulated, but I feel as if there may be more missing. If anyone else can shed some light on this it would be much appreciated.
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what's coming at ya? i'm contemplating/saving cash for a couple of 2k amps
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Where is the closest dealer to zip code 25701 (Huntington, WV) that I can get a D2400 for under the hood? or a D3100 for the back.. Really I just need prices shipped to above address or where to get one. Thanks!
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I have 2 xl on a dc 5k I was gonna run 2 aq 3500 but having 2 amps and electrical is to much of a hastle. And want I would want to upgrade all I have to do buy2 more subs and another big amp. Oh and in my opinion 1 big amp is cooler then 2 little ones.
^^^ Or if you want some head room and have the electrical, get two DC 5k's for your future setup. Two big amps looks wayy better than one big amp...
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Can I get a quote for a D2400 and D3100 batteries? Also, if the 2400 is my primary and rhe 3100 is in the back, will a stock 130 amp alt be enough to charge them? This is to power 2 DC 2K amps.
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I thought about it, I just don't know anything about aero ports...? cost, how big in diameter, port area..
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Awesome, thanks for the quick response!
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I've got a 2004 Honda Pilot with a stock 130 amp alt, big 3 in 0 gauge, with two P500-1bd amps powering two dc level 4s. The rms is about 1200, and I'm seeing some voltage drop with this NAPA battery..what do you recommend I put under the hood? I plan on upgrading power to two t1500-1bdcp amps, so closer to 3000 rms; what will I need to add to support the increased pull to the bigger amps? Thanks!
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Yeah, I see what you guys mean damn this is difficult. I've gotta get creative cause this is the most space-efficient, practical way to fit a ground pounding system in this car.
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Check out ebay for the RF Punch P1000-1bd. It'll easily do 1k rms...RF's are usually underrated. I glanced and saw some prices for around 180-240 used..pictures are included in the posts I saw. I have two P500-1bd amps I bought used off ebay and love em! each does around 700 watts rms @ 1 ohm.
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No, the prime amps aren't 1 ohm stable
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Luckily I have a friend who works at a cabinet supply shop who is going to use a machine to cut the mdf. Any recommendations on how to connect the port walls? Just glue or should I try to run a screw from the bottom up into the port walls?
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Hey guys, I need help deciding how to built a slot ported box that has an angled back wall (similar to a wedge). I'll put up pics of what I'm talking about in a second. The first picture is the original box design, but I kpw need to add ~1ft^3 without increasing the front depth or heIght or width of the box (it will fit snuggly as it's designed now). Therefore, I thought maybe I could add a few inches to the wall of the box sp it'll be flush against my reclining rear seat.
So is it possible (without causing acoustical problems and to accurately calculate) a slot ported box with an angled back like the pictures?
Ps. I just found these pictures on another forum, but they were posted merely as an idea, never had a final outcome.
Thanks I'm advance for any help!
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may sound dumb, but are those first two pics of a box thats going to be downfiring?
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Here is the image Torres was talking about with regards to port bend
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Alright so I PM'd Torres and he had some great answers:
Torres:
physical port length isn't necessarily the length before it bends. that would only be part of the length. if a port is 4" wide by 10" tall and 20" long and doesn't bend, the physical port length would be 19.25". the missing .75" comes from the baffle or wall of the box that when added together gets you 20" long. now...when a port bends, the bend in the port makes it seem effectively longer which is why the physical port length is shorter. so using the same port, if it bent then the physical port length would be 15.25". you have 20" minus .75" for the baffle/wall, minus 4" due to the bend in the port, which gets you 15.25". here's a picture to kinda help show what i mean if you made the 'physical port' as long as the effective port (which is the port entered in the port length box).
so as you can see, if the port bends and it is still made the desired length then the port will effectively be longer than it should be, lowering tuning and taking up more volume in the box.
as for your box, the pic you posted looks good
and since you're using 2 common port walls in the middle, you're right that the width gets divided in half after the bend. so in the middle it'll be 4.8" then when it splits it'll go down to 2.4" and continue along the rest of the port.
hope i helped answer all your questions
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Do you have the birthsheet or know tested RMS @ 1 ohm?
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Ahh makes sense! Okay, so if you complete the steps I posted above, you should get what I'm going to call initial port length, and it should be equal to the physical port length.
In other words, physical length is length before it bends
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I can write up a formula for it if you want, and u can just plug in the numbers. This is, of course, assuming I'm right about everything here.
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Alright. It means it's going to have to split to the left and right when it gets to the back wall. And go by what is in the "port length" box if I'm not mistaken. That's how I calculated it to be. And what you do is;
Take the width of the port from the "Port Demensions" "width" box, and divide it in half.
Now, subtract that from the over all length of the port (the "port dimensions" "length" box). Now make the port start at the front of the box, and go back so that it is as long as the difference you just calculated.
Now, take this length and subtract it from the overall length, and divide by two.
Starting in the center where the port ends, measure to the left and right for the most recently calculated distance.
It's long but that's how I did it to make sure the port will be the proper length.
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Well, looking at what it told me, I'm not really sure. What did you put in the "port length" box? I did the manual calculations before I put everything in Torres' calc, so I'm making mine 32 inches long.
And when you say two common walls, will you have a port on each side? Mine is going to be in center of the box
Low-tuned BP for Level 5 15's
in Member Videos - Host 'em & Post 'em! System Vids / Off Topic
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I'm thinking of going from ported to 4th order since I'm upgrading my amps. How large would a 4th order need to be for two DC Level 4 12s on ~2.5k, with a similar tuning frequency as the above box?
Jw because if I'm gonna loose all cargo room it won't be worth it.