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audio1der

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Posts posted by audio1der

  1. Well, you can never have too much power and if you're going to upgrade subs at some point, get the 1200. It's an awesome amp for the money. I used mine with a 500w RF P3 12" and that held up for months of abuse until I just wanted more lol. Just keep an eye on the gain and watch for clipping and you'll be fine.

    My $.02

  2. I've always thought equal pathlengths were the way to go and in a car, that typically means kickpanels.

    But it seems image/soundstage height might be even more difficult to overcome; how do you find the balance? I see a lot of you guys run tweets and/or small mids in the a-pillars but those are not nearly as equidistant as in the kicks.

    Just throwing ideas around to help my SQ clarity.

  3. I thought you guys would not only find this interesting, but have the knowledge to follow through with it. I made a pair of them a bunch of years ago using Pioneer 12" subs and an old 70W x 2 Technics receiver. It made the door on my oven downstairs rattle (I had only a 150W, 10" powered sub, so that was not what was shaking anything) :good:

    http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_4_2/tactile.html

    Tips: Use loctite on the fasteners, ensure you can add/subtract weight to/from the bridge across the dustcap in order to tune it, and frame the fukers like you mean it. You will NOT be dissapointed. It REALLY added to the HT experience, unlike anything I've heard/felt before. Commercially available "shakers" tickle your bum compared to these.

    *Caveat- I used speaker-level outputs from my main HT receiver and converted those to RCA level inputs for the shaker receiver, often putting 9V of input into that poor thing. It lasted a year, but could easily be reproduced with a good plate amp meant for HT subs.

  4. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/index.php

    Read. Learn. Enjoy your lights instead of being frsutrated with them.

    Unless you've modded headlight housings before, I'd suggest leaving it to a pro, but that's me (and I've taken my housings apart to black them out). Having a nice clean set of housing which have a proper adjustable aim and level, even projectors are difficult.

    Glad you're looking at projectors, though. People with HID kits in reflector-based housings should be caned for blinding the rest of us. There's a reason no OEM setups use this method anymore (and only a couple ever tried)

    [Rant off]

    -Audio

  5. EBay! Lol. As long as the reflective surface is silver you should be alright. There are some "halo" housings on eBay that I like. Don't get the black backed housing's. Do you plan on getting hids?

    yeah probably just some plain white hids. so its not the actual housing its just because they are black is why they aren't that bright?

    Because the ones you linked to are projector it shouldn't matter what the back color it (hence why they can be black). I'd guess the projector lenses are garbage. Be careful with eBay lights too! I bought some for my car and the build quality was SO poor. I had to dissasemble them in order to fish a loose piece out, re-seal them, and they still won't aim properly (the aiming screws just don't do anything). Very fruistrating.

    I have little options for my car as well, so I feel your pain.

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