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audio1der

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Posts posted by audio1der

  1. Would anyone mind going on Parts Express and linking me to a xover that they think would work out with the above drivers? Please.

    Doesn't look like they have any pre-assembled units that would work for you. HOWEVER, installing seperate units off the rear inner binding posts to the sepearate drivers wouldn't hurt.

    You know what? they have dick-all (not to say other sites don't, but I'm at work and can't look). You're really better off to study some x-over charts, grab some caps and coils and make'em. The goods don't need to be mounted on a circuit board to work! Know that caps cut out bass, coils cut out highs and when combined in the right order (1 cap +1 coil per driver) they make 12dB/octave x-overs :-)

    http://www.car-fi.com/techcenter/xovers-4ohm.htm

    http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/cross.asp

    It really is easy- read a little and you'll be just fine bro! :-)

  2. hey all im stephen

    there can only be one <img src='http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/angry.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':angry:' />

    :drinks:

    Maybe, but with his avatar, you're in trouble ;-p

    Hi all, I'm Kevin from Calgary (Canada).

    It's too damned cold to do much of anything outside half the year here (I even pull dow my back seats so the sub warms up before I crank it!) but it doesn' stop the hardcore. I had a car stereo before I had a car but got away from it for a while. I have an old, somple system but it works. Don't want to sink much money into the car because it may not be around too much longer, and my main hobby (Cuban cigars) is REAAAAAAAAALY expensive.

  3. I'm using an archaic Alpine 3539 bridged to my RF Stage 3 sub, which works well but really taxes my electrical system.

    Wondering if a newer Alpine/RF class D amp which are more efficient would work the electrical less while producing the same power?

    doing so would also allow me to ditch my POS x-over and use an internal one in the new sub amp, making things simple, the way I like them.

    TIA!

    -Audio

  4. Thanks for the input guys. It just goes to show there's always something to learn. Man I feel like such a noob cause the concept is pretty basic but I don't know anything about crossovers or how running them in parallel would effect the components.

    Running a pair of 4ohm (final load) components per side in parallel at the crossovers so one wire goes to each corresponding side of the front channels

    Better quality component x-overs should include a zobel circuit which irons out impedance matching problems, potentially allowing you to run 2 sets of components off one channel of an amp.

  5. Do you guys run multiple batteries purely for key-off playing time?

    Trying to figure out what I need to keep my lights from dimming severely on my undersized stock electrical system (even while driving). I have the ability to run 2 batteries (parallel) and wondered if that would help, or if I need a HO alt.

    Only 550W RMS in an '01 Nissan Sentra.

    Thanks guys- love the forum!

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