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mrrairai

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Posts posted by mrrairai

  10. Another Great Best Buy Story...

    in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"

    Posted

    I work in the car audio department in Best Buy, and I don't think I am a shit for brains, or someone with little to no knowledge. What you have to remember about Best Buy, or Circuit City is that they aren't meant for serious car audio enthusiasts, but rather for the average joe who just wants to change out what came with his car/what he currently has. Before you lump all of us Best Buy employee's into the useles category, seriously consider where you are. You are in an electronics store that also happens to sell car audio equipment, not a true car stereo shop.

    You're right. There are some smart cats in there. I just hate it when I (an average guy) walks into a car audio store and the person working there knows less than me. I just feel that if you're working on a certain job you need to learn damn near everything about it. Might not know every brand but at least know the difference between a DVC and SVC sub.

  11. Upgraded Electric

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    first of all i have a 1996 cadillac deville that i just upgraded the big three and put an aftermarket alternator got all my rcas and 2 runs of 0 awg and speaker wire ran. keep in mind that there are no amps hooked up just all the wires ran to the trunk. i have pulled EVERY fuse out the car and i still get like 2 volts with a muti meter from my negative on the battery to the ground wire. what could possibly be the problem.

    I say start from scratch. Explain your big three upgrades and also are your 2 run of 0awg and RCAs currently connected to anything (ie. Battery, head unit, etc). Also measure your voltage on the ground side with the ground connected to the battery. In other words measure in parallel, not in series and let us know what you get. Make sure the meter is on DC Volts!!!

  14. Upgraded Electric

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    You are using the wrong measurement setting on the meter. It need to be set to "DC amps" , not "volts". On a lot of multimeters, you have to move the red test lead over to a different plug on the front of the multimeter that is fused. You can then test it like how you were going, (measuring between the ground cable and the negative terminal of the battery) and it will display how many amps are being drained from the battery.

    You can use the same setting, and test to see if the alternator is draining the battery. (this can be possible with a regualtor that is bad or mis-wired) Hook up both battery cables like normal, then disconnect the alternator charge wire. Measure from the alternator charge wire and the positive terminal of the battery, and see if there is any current flowing with the key in the "off" position. If there is, the alternaor is faulty, or has the wrong regulator wiring.

    This post confused the hell outta me. Just like Mechman said you need to be measuring your amps because you had your multimeter in series so you shouldn't have been trying to test AC voltage. Are you going off of the indication that you were measuring 2 volts when the neg was unplugged? Is that how you came up with the fact about the short?

    I would measure everything normal with the vehicle off and then with the vehicle running. I don't think you have a short at all.

    Well I did what you said with it on amps and nothing came up with the alternator but here's the twist I left the alt power wire in pluged and tested neg to neg and got a .27 then I plugged the alternator power wire in and test it again on negatives and got a .60

    Is that .27A and .60A? If you're measuring current measure right after the alt or are you using the neg on the alt? Remember measuring current is very tricky. Its not as easy as voltage.

  23. Powermaster For A 98 Expedition

    in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)

    Posted

    I agree with Steve, of course ... you can never have enough reserve power. So, squeeze in what you can. But, if you have the common 6 cell group34 yellowtops now. . The D3400 is group 34 also, of course. So, it will take the place of the optima without any issues. It also happens to be the size that would fit with a little room to spair anway. So, you could drop it right in, and add another to the back to replace the other optima and be covered for about 6000watts or so combined. They are much stronger than the yellowtops.

    But, if you want to pack all that you can under the hood. . as long as you have another inch or so to spare in height you can run with the D2400 no issues. The D2700 will require that same additional height and another inch in length. . The D3100 would require two extra inches in length and the same additional inch in height.

    D3100 should be about 13"L x 7"W x 8.5"H (est.)

    What are you running for amps?

    My amps are in the sig. Also check out D3100 in Expo

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