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Crazy4CarAudio

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Posts posted by Crazy4CarAudio

  1. I'm having a problem with my ZX2500.1 amp and also the ZX650.4.

    I'll start with the 2500.1.

    Here's my hook up... I'm gonna start from the Alt.

    300A alt - 1/0 wire to 300A fuse to Battery (+) ---- Battery (-) 1/0 wire to chassis & 1/0 wire from engine to chassis. From Battery (+) 1/0 wire to 300A fuse then into conduit running along underside of body up through rear trunk area. then wire going into distribution block. On other side of block 1/0 wire to 300A fuse then into ZX2500.1 amp. Ground at rear trunk area at 2 places.

    Battery up front is a 34/78 Optima Red Top. Settings on amp are only 1/4 turn for gain and all others are at zero.

    With stereo playing at half the volume, the bass is strong for about 3 minutes, then will go into protection. This is where I would hope you guys could answer why?!!!

    I have had a orion amp & MTX amp hooked up to this with "no" problems, but with this Kicker amp, it goes into protect. The sound is then muffled and scared not to leave volume up cause last time, it some how burnt the caps in the amp. So I had to send it to Kicker for repairs. Now it seems like almost the same thing is about to happen. Reason sent to Kicker: Bought new, powered up amp, both green and red lights were on. doesn't say anything about both lights being on together in the manual. Smoke appeared - caps fried.

    Also my 4 channel amp goes into protect before my sub amp, but comes back on with in a min.

    So I'm lost. I have checked everything I could think of. DMM on battery, wires both - & + both volts and ohms. all connections. With sub amp on, I only see down to 13.2V but peaks around 15.3 for recharge on battery. Load tested battery and they load tested upto 900CCA and said its better than normal, mines only 800CCA, lol.

    I was thinking maybe its the remote wire, not giving the amp enough power? it read like 12.?V Remote wire is hooked to back of radio.

    Also I know I need another battery or 2, which I will be getting soon. But not needing the extra power to figure this out!

    Also subs are 2ohm into amp, so amp is seeing that - well, after ohmming it out before the amp, it sees 1.8 ohms, but not thinking it would be the problem. Tried wiring the subs to 4 and 8 ohm. same thing happens.

    PLEASE HELP

  2. well I will be getting the D2 on the L7's to bring me down to 1 ohm. The ZX2500.1 only goes down to 2 ohm. I know ppl have gone below that, but I don't have enough money to be buying more if it blows.

    Plus, the SX's are digital, with A LOT of options!!!! So I think it would be better, instead of going to the back to change a setting or turn a amp off.

    I want to be able to turn 1 on for driving and 2 for comp's or jamming out

  3. This is what I'm thinking of getting in about a week.....

    2 - 06 15" L7

    2 - SX 1250.1 w/remote

    1 - SS 65.2

    1 - RS 65.2

    1 - SX 700.4

    I have a 1999 4dr Chevy Blazer. I want to have Pete from TTB make the enclosure layout for me. I was wondering if anyone has ever listened to any SUV that had 2 of these in it????

    I know its all in the enclosure and how you set up your amp to keep it from clipping and such, but trying to figure out a average of DB's I can get out of the? I'm also thinking of adding the Pioneer H.U. 9800BT later on down the line.

    But I also have an option of getting the 12" or 18" SoloX. But I keep hearing that there not that good and there coming out with a different model next year. I was wondering if I get it, could I just upgrade with the new model by changing the S.P.A.I.R.? And if this would be better than the 2 15" L7's.

    :-[ IDK anything anymore, so I'm asking you Bassheads to help me out!!! 

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