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TonyD'Amore

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Posts posted by TonyD'Amore

  1. Great info and like the test... Might change a few peoples minds about using them...

    Changed my mind when I saw the evidence lol. Now I can do what I wanted to do when I originally thought it up, which was to put 2 caps on each of my amps. I think my thread about that is still around...

    We did see that they had to be as close to the amplifier as possible.

  2. Would like to see what the results with your primary battery and a large AGM battery like a XS 3100 ran without a capacitor. This would be a similar set up like a lot of us members would run and see what the numbers would be. Also, stock alt?

    Another big battery would only help on the runs where the voltage dropped below 12.6 volts. At least, that is what I'm guessing.

  3. In all seriousness though, hopefully your favorite local install shop will pony up for one and have "dyno days" where people can bring their vehicle in, strap it down to the dyno and find the weak links in their system. We really believe this is going to be a great tool for dealers to show people why REAL copper wire is more expensive, why REAL amplifiers are more expensive, etc. The old adage "you get what you pay for" is pretty accurate when it comes to mobile audio. Of course there are always exceptions to the rule, but when a 50 foot spool of 1/0 awg wire only weighs 10 pounds, something is horribly wrong.

    • Like (+1 Rep) 6
  4. Interesting any testing with a battery?

    No testing with an additional battery, but if you look at the numbers it would only help in the situations were the voltage fell below 12.6V, since another battery is just a load to the alternator over 12.6V. We have an additional group 49 AGM battery all charged up and ready for testing. May do some dyno runs on Monday.

  5. Alright guys, I am all done hearing about "clamping". The numbers generated from that are so far off and don't account for many factors. I just did a quick little dyno run vs the clamps tonight to show how drastic the error is. If you want to know more detail about why clamping doesn't work, there is another video on the D'Amore Engineering youtube channel that describes the problems in detail.

    Clamps vs Amp Dyno vid here:

    Detailed explanation of why clamping is wrong vid here:

    • Like (+1 Rep) 2
  6. Tony Candela of CE Auto Electric Supply, Juan Rodriguez and I decided to do some testing with the AD-1 Amplifier Dyno to see what effects adding a capacitor to your system does. We did over 60 Dyno pulls with a Rockford T2500-1bdcp, without a capacitor, with a 1 Farad electrolytic capacitor (a real 1 F), and a 100 Farad carbon supercap.

    Test vehicle is a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 5.7 Hemi, 180 amp alternator, single group 49 AGM battery, all wiring 1/0 AWG copper.

    We tested each possible combination 3 times just to make sure our numbers were consistent, which they were. Video part 1 is continuous power testing, video 2 is dynamic burst power testing. Enjoy!!!

    Video part 1= Continuous power testing (uncertified dyno test mode). We do 4, 2 and 1 ohm dyno runs with no cap, 1 F cap, and 100 F cap.

    All tests in this video were made using the Uncertified Dyno Mode which is a continuous sine wave. We test a Rockford T2500-1bdcp in car, with no added capacitors, then with a 1 Farad aluminum electrolytic capacitor added, and then with a 100 Farad carbon supercapacitor added.

    RESULTS:
    No Capacitor:
    1499 Watts RMS @ 13.07V into 4 ohms
    2059 Watts RMS @ 11.84V into 2 ohms
    2366 Watts RMS @ 10.83V into 1 ohm

    With 1 Farad Capacitor:
    1489 Watts RMS @ 13.10V into 4 ohms
    2024 Watts RMS @ 11.90V into 2 ohms
    2358 Watts RMS @ 10.87V into 1 ohm

    With 100 Farad carbon supercapacitor:
    1531 Watts RMS @ 13.13V into 4 ohms
    2208 Watts RMS @ 12.25V into 2 ohms
    2606 Watts RMS @ 11.30V into 1 ohm

    Engine RPM held between 2200-2500 for all tests.

    1F capacitor didn't add any power on the continuous RMS test, actually lost a few watts probably due to the increased number of wire connections.

    100F capacitor added more than 10% more power on the continuous RMS test

    Make sure to watch part 2, dynamic power testing (burst power). Hint: The results are different!

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Video part 2= Dynamic burst testing (Dynamic Power Dyno Mode). We do 4, 2 and 1 ohm dyno runs with no cap, 1 F cap, and 100F cap.


    All tests in this video were made using the Dynamic Power (Burst) Dyno mode which is representative of musical peaks. We test a Rockford T2500-1bdcp in car, with no added capacitors, then with a 1 Farad aluminum electrolytic capacitor added, and then with a 100 Farad carbon supercapacitor added.

    RESULTS:
    No Capacitor:
    1543 Watts RMS @ 13.80V into 4 ohms
    2550 Watts RMS @ 13.32V into 2 ohms
    3154 Watts RMS @ 12.76V into 1 ohm

    With 1 Farad Capacitor:
    1613 Watts RMS @ 13.98V into 4 ohms
    2666 Watts RMS @ 13.60V into 2 ohms
    3426 Watts RMS @ 13.35V into 1 ohm

    With 100 Farad carbon supercapacitor:
    1620 Watts RMS @ 13.95V into 4 ohms
    2616 Watts RMS @ 13.65V into 2 ohms
    3260 Watts RMS @ 12.91V into 1 ohm

    Engine RPM held between 2200-2500 for all tests.

    1F capacitor didn't add any power on the continuous RMS test, but it OWNED the Dynamic Burst testing!!

    100F capacitor added more than 10% more power on the continuous RMS test, but less than 5% on the dynamic burst test.

    • Like (+1 Rep) 2
  7. There are just so many scenarios where this tool would be beneficial, something like this could do wonders for even your most basic of installs. Or say a customer comes in and you can show them how a simple amp upgrade could make their entire system like brand new. I thought that the DD-1 was an exciting tool and I freaking love mine. For some of the younger guys or guys who couldn't afford an O-scope it was a chore setting some of them up and before hand helds I had a gigantic monster on a cart we had to wheel around. So not gonna lie unless it was a big install we tuned by ear LOL. Now with the DD-1 or AD-1 it's made our jobs easier and protected customers investments. Your mind is amazing Tony. Oh wow did I just have one of my Dad's "back in my day" moments? LOL

    I changed a 6 foot piece of 4 awg to 1/0 awg from distribution block to amp and gained around 100 Watts on the 2 ohm run!! That is the stuff dealers need right there.

    • Like (+1 Rep) 2
  8. This would be the ULTIMATE tool in any shop. I would use this for everything, from showing customers their junk amp really doesn't do 1000 watts to tuning systems. After all my treatments are done and I get back to work I'm defiantly making a presentation to the owner to get one of these as a selling tool. Even though it's going to be more of an install tool for me lol.

    Thanks Larry

  9. We've got the AD-1 Amp Dyno very close to production trim. Here are a couple of demo videos showing some of it's capabilities.

    Currently the AD-1 Amplifier Dyno is the only self contained test system that can measure RMS Continuous Power and Dynamic Power of both Full Range and Bandwidth Limited (subwoofer) Amplifiers in the world....and it does it in YOUR CAR! Please enjoy these two videos.

    The first video demonstrates the gain setting capability of the newly developed DD-1+ technology built into the AD-1. DD-1+ allow the user to make variable gain overlap settings in 1dB increments, even if the system is dirty and reads over 1% Distortion BEFORE clipping. The AD-1 amp dyno's DD-1+ technology can also be used in EXACTLY the same manner as the classic DD-1 if the user chooses. Link below

    The second video demonstrates the dyno loading and precision power measurement technologies in the AD-1 Amplifier Dyno. Learn about Certified Dyno Mode (which the Jeep's system failed due to headunit's noisy output), Uncertified Dyno Mode (which is the backup in the event you run into a problem like we did), and Dynamic Power Mode which measures power output during a very short term "bursted" signal. This is the industry standard for measuring "Dynamic Power" or "Headroom". Link below

    • Like (+1 Rep) 4
  10. Long story short. Couldn't ge tmy CC-1 to function properly the day I got it. No signal light. Posted a thread on here, tried new battery differen amp, different car, home reciever, different tracks. No luck. Emailed D'amore and sent it in.

    Since it's been in I've asked for some updates several times through email, no replies yet. I'm assuming there might be a problem with email so thats why I'm posting in here.

    This IS NOT A THREAD TO BADMOUTH OR FLAME DAMORE's CS or anything else.

    Just wondering if anyone else has had to send in a DD-1 or CC-1 and approximately how long it took you to get it back? I'm just trying to get an idea here as to how long it will be.

    Thanks,

    And Damore if you see this my email is chris_e_hammer maybe you could look in spam folder or check.

    Chris, I will check with Juan in the morning, but I'm pretty sure it has already been taken care of and is on it's way to you.

  11. Upgrade your DD-1, DD-1HV, CC-1, or IM-SG today with one of our RB-2 or RB-4 rechargeable upgrade kits! Guys we've tested several types of rechargeables, and several different chargers. We have put together 2 different kits that will perform great in our tools. Especially the hungry IM-SG. Upgrade today!

    Free shipping within the contiguous US
    http://damoreengineering.com/batterykit.html

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