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BigPimpin91

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Posts posted by BigPimpin91

  1. Use a meter.

    I set my gains on my amp to give 800w (40v AC) to my 1600w sub and, uh, I didn't need all of it.

    Is set it with my DVD Player volume on max (20) and I can turn it to 7 and hear a slight vibration of the walls in my room at only 0.7v AC.

    I'm not saying that my stuff is better than your's just that usually you don't need full tilt.

    Also, it could be the box placement and the fact that my walls are sheets of panel board.

    I say set it to about 100-200 watts under the max combined and watch for the hot copper wire smell.

    If you smell it turn it off let it sit for about an half-hour and turn gains down a titch.

  2. First two are made using Bryan's Bass Song.

    Last is the infamous Bass, I Love you.

    th_PoundingaLightningAudiowithBryansBa.jpg

    th_BryansBassSong2.jpg

    th_BassILoveYou.jpg

    Yes the cone is bottoming out. Yes the sub is damn near blown. No, I don't care.

    Funny thing is only 20v was maximum during all songs.

    Which, If math is correct, 100 watts. Not sure of the resistance of meter but sub is wired at 4 ohm.

    This camera hardly picks up any of the fun things to see.

    IH8PunkRok's bass song is the star of the second half of the second video.

    MAD EXCURSION! Leading to a burning smell and a slightly warm cone.

  3. Second on the Bandpass motion.

    One 12" JBL on a 215w MAX amp got the mirror's vibrating on the inside of my friend's '94 Explorer.

    I put my new 12" in there and I had a meter hooked up to it.

    With 0.7v I got some slight vibrations of walls in my room.

    DON'T Quote me on that. It may just be box placement in my room but still.

    They are very efficient.

    But that's the only type of box I have ever owned so no experience with ported, sealed, or T-Line's (Yet.:)).

  4. just tried to copy/paste a section...the copy worked, but the paste isnt? button isnt lighting up to click. am i just missin somethin?

    After you highlight the section and copy. You did half of the section you wanted to chop right?

    Press the left arrow key. This will put the cursor at the beginning of the highlighted section.

    Now try pasting it.

    Yes, the music has to be stopped before you can play with the button's.

  5. I'm on now. 1:11 A.M.

    Will have to get off at 2 am tho.

    If I went with the first box design I could make the center hole the sealed part of the bandpass.

    I posted this same discussion in the ROE forums and got some people with more experience, too much experience, they were talking about tapering it adding foam to slow the back wave, multiplying the speed of light by Pi and then dividing it by the length of Albert Einsteins nose to get the length of the port.

    I will try the second design, Hopefully if i Check craigslist I can find some free wood.

    Some Guy has sheets of 3/4" MDF but he's 40 MI from my house.

    $10 gas or $23 whole sheet?

  6. My Guess would be E-Mail Term-Lab Site.

    And ask them about shipping to AUS.

    They might be able to work with you.

    You need a computer or Lap-Top for TL.

    ALSO, for about $400 U.S.D. Less, which is like $3.7 Billion A.U.D. ( :P ) you can get a meter that goes up to 186 db from Here.

    They calibrate their meters at 178db at other frequency's and 166 db at 20hz.

    Their meter's seem to give a slightly lower number than the Term-Lab's.

    Which isn't so bad if you go to a comp with a car you metered at 147 and it hits 150 on a TL.

    No computer program all you need is a digital voltmeter.

    It explains it all on the site.

    Shoot them an e-mail about shipping also.

  7. OK.

    I started last night when I downloaded Sketchup.

    I just now finished, at 7:00 A.M., after several design errors.

    Here Is what I came Up With.

    HomeMadeTRansmissionLine.png

    HomeMadeT-LineX-Ray.png

    HomeMadeT-Line.png

    That IS a hole in the middle It was an accident at first but I though Of a Great Idea.

    I could put my amp inside of the hole.

    Cut a Rectangle Shape Board that completely covers the top.

    The Bottom One will Only Cover the Port and I can Run My Wires Out From Underneath the box.

    There Is a hole behind the speaker placement for wire's which would only be about 1 ft long to reach the amp. Equaling less resistance, not much but it helps.

    Nobody would see an amp and they would be like, "Awww, snap, son." It's late sorry for the lame ass joke. Shit it's actually early.

    ForevrBumpin,

    Would these dimensions work?

    Would the port be too shallow?

    The length comes out to ~9.5 ft .1 over the 9.41Quarter Wave length.

    Port Area is 80 sq/in. 78.5 is what I needed 80 close enough?

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