zeppyrkr
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Posts posted by zeppyrkr
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Its an old picture back when I was running DC Audio and JL Audio, my wife had these cornhole boards made for me one Christmas
Those are sick!
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I've put 1200 to a level 3, no problems. Just gotta know what you're doing.
But what would get louder? 3 or 3 with upgrade
I could be wrong but they should be about the same loudness ( same motor and magnet), id just feel safer with the upgrade when dealing with that much power
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I ordered a lvl3 with upgrades and plan on giving it 1k, I think u made a good choice ive never been a fan of under powering a sub
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really smart, make enimies with those your surrounded by. I hope u have a good alarm.
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I don't understand what your beef is. What if you find out you've been clipping with an scope? The he'll does it matter how you find out? Clipping is clipping... Why buy a 300+ tool that you will use 1/xxx features when instead you can buy a tool at a fraction of the price that will suit the need of most members in the car audio world.
Geez no beef my man, just bringing out valid point, many members on this forum have oscopes already? is there any buying motive for us? I've seen other people try to say this product will detect distortion before a oscope clips, saying this device is better?
I was simply suggesting that using an oscope is a very valid way to set your gains and many of us have been doing it for years and when done properly I think it is more than accurate enough to not damage your equipment. I honestly wouldn't lower my gains if this device told me i was distorting while my oscope showed a clean signal.
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I was really hoping for this to be under the 100 dollar price point
. Honestly how many of us have set our gains with oscopes and never blown a single thing? I mean if this thing tells u to turn your gain down a little even tho you've had it set (with your oscope) and bumping with no issues for a long time are you really gonna do it? I think its sweet and if you dont have a oscope or access to a scope, you should really buy one of these. As for me I'm sticking to the scope for the time being. I would like to think most modern speakers can handle a little harmonic distortion. Been in the scene for almost 10 years now, only speaker I've ever blown was a stock one.
My question is, if you set your gains with oscope and say you've been pounding it at full tilt for a year or so and you hook this thing up to it and it says your distorting. Are you gonna lower your gains?
yup...i care how clean my sound is.
Ha nice simple answer i like that bro, i see where your coming from tho. its just weird that until now setting your gains with an oscope was like the perfection of amp tuning. Times are a changing ...
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I was really hoping for this to be under the 100 dollar price point
. Honestly how many of us have set our gains with oscopes and never blown a single thing? I mean if this thing tells u to turn your gain down a little even tho you've had it set (with your oscope) and bumping with no issues for a long time are you really gonna do it? I think its sweet and if you dont have a oscope or access to a scope, you should really buy one of these. As for me I'm sticking to the scope for the time being. I would like to think most modern speakers can handle a little harmonic distortion. Been in the scene for almost 10 years now, only speaker I've ever blown was a stock one.
My question is, if you set your gains with oscope and say you've been pounding it at full tilt for a year or so and you hook this thing up to it and it says your distorting. Are you gonna lower your gains?
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So pumped to get mine! This month better fly by
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Video Update.
Sub in Action.
Also I just made an order with DC Audio and have a 12" Level 3 (level 4 coils & spider) with a 1.2K DC Amp to power it to replace my current sub stage. Won't get this til mid summer so I'll update then!
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My other worry is that my alternator is regulated through the ecu and im guess if u bypass it and go direct to battery it will throw a check engine light and I live in a area that wont pass u on emissions with a cel. Right now at 1000w (400 for front stage, 600 sub) I have no dimmimg.
Anyways will a level 3 on 750 be an upgrade or waste of money?
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The would go level 4 but than I feel I would need to upgrade my alternator which even if the fitzall fits idk how much or if I could even get someone to install it, the alternator on protege is in a bad spot.
So anyways I think im set on a level 3 12" dc dual 2ohm, and an aq750. Plan on making a ported box for it.
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I wouldn't waste the money ...upgrading to a DC level3 from a type r. If your looking to upgrade. 150 Watts and a different sub probably isn't going to change much compared to the amount of money paid. Do you have a custom box at this time? Tell us more about your installation. So then people don't just jump on the; get a DC blanket statement.
The type r is a 10 in a small custom .7 or so sealed box and the amp for it is an ab class, Reason I wanna upgrade is I want a ported box, a 12 inch sub and a class d amp. Im expecting an audible difference is that wishful thinking?
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Nope the alternator is regulated through the ecu im told there is no possibility, I have an extra battery and im not having any problems running 600w. I think the stock alternator wouldnt mind an aq750 the reason I wanna replace the boston is because its an ab class. I think a level 3 12 would do me good.
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Nope the alternator is regulated through the ecu im told there is no possibility, I have an extra battery and im not having any problems running 600w. I think the stock alternator wouldnt mind an aq750 the reason I wanna replace the boston is because its an ab class. I think a level 3 12 would do me good.
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I currently have a 10" type R on 600w from a bouston acoustic amp. I'm looking to upgrade. I want a single 12" maybe a 15" im looking for something under 1000w my car has stock alternator and no option for HO one (03 protege).
So I was thinking a level 3 dc 12" dual 2 ohm along with an AQ750? My other thought was an Sundown SA-12? Which one u think is better or feel free to recommend another sub. Im looking to spend 200-250 on the sub. Also anyone think i should go for a 15?
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Im looking for a new amp to power my ma rk6 speakers, they can handle 250w so thats what im looking to give them. I have a power acoustik right now and want something higher quality than that. Let me kno what u got
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XS Power
"Let the power flow"
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Have an order coming from Sonic.
1. SHURiKEN SK-BT20 (Small Battery, comparable to 100 Farad cap)
2. Tsunami TSBT-PN (Battery Terminals) Can finally put my 0 gauge to use and do the big 3!
My system is dropping volts to low 13s, ive hit high 12s every now and then. It seems my crappy speaker amp is causing more voltage drop than my sub amp which seems weird to me although the RK6s pull some bass out of that thing. Should I have both amps power off the SK-BT20 or just the sub amp. The battery will be in the trunk directly next to the sub amp, speaker amp is under drivers seat. Anyways I'll report back once I get those things installed.
Just got an email that my school has oscopes that I'm able to rent out, sweetness!!
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Update ive changed a few things.
HU - Kenwood X994
Fronts - Massive Audio RK6
Rears - Alpine Type S
Sub - Alpine Type R Sealed Enclosure
Speaker Amp - Power Acoustik PS4-1200 (2x 250w 4Ohm)
Sub Amp - Boston Acoustics GT2125 (1x 600w 2Ohm)
Pictures.
Door Deadening (edead)
RK6 With Custom 3/4 MDF Bracket, Boom Mat Baffle
From a distance
Drivers Side
Crossover Mounted, wires hidden and fed through door.
Power Acoustic Amp Under Drivers Seat
Power acoustic amp with seat back
Boston acoustics amp.
Sub now facing rear
Im in the process of selling the sub and box and getting either a new single 10 or 12, we'll see what happens.
I'm looking for some advice as well, since I'm not amping the rear speakers the deck naturally plays them louder than my RK6. I am bypassing the X994s amp (DSP bypass) which takes away all the eq and crossover settings so i cant adjust the rears at all! Should i just up the gain on my speaker amp, i guess better than that i should probably set them with my dmm(currently the gain is set on the low end. Thanks for looking.
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power acoustik gothic series, did like 380w x2 2ohm supposedly, bought it used and the thing actually still bumps to this day and pounds too
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Got my Kenwood X994 head unit installed (first one kept resetting itself back to demo) this one works perfect and damn does it sound good. I've tended to cheap out on decks in the past and go for a feature heavy deck with a small price tag. I had no idea how much a difference a good sound quality deck makes. The X994 is amazing and I can't believe the sound coming out of my stock speakers! I'm hesitant to even upgrade them at the moment lol but i have some DD CS 6.5 coming next month so I'll post back once those are in the car. Thanks for looking i know this isn't a mind blowing build lol so i appreciate those who respect us cheap bastards.
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^^^ that
Really i tried both ways and it felt like I was losing sound out the back that way, there is no sound deadening. It was louder from the outside with it that way tho. I'll switch it around again the next time I feel like rewiring it, thanks for the suggestions. Im not a complete noob I know that most ppl face subs to the real especially sealed and its suppose to be louder. This sub is not for SPL in any means, my woman has already been yelling about the bass lol
Next step is well firstly getting my X994 back in once i get it back (had problems with the first one, waiting for the RMA) I have some DDCS-6.5 coming soon which will be powered by my power acoustik 110w x4 amp for the time being. Will update once these things are done.
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Been working on this little project for the past couple days.
*note this is budget (its a recession) nothing mind blowing
Car - 2003 Mazda Protege ES
Sub - Alpine Type R 10" 4Ohm DVC
Amp - Kenwood 8105D - 500RMS at 2Ohm
Custom sealed wedge box ~ .7 cubic ft. filled with fiberfill
Head Unit - Kenwood KDC-X994
Pics
The Sub
Box and Sub, Unmounted
Close up of the 8 gauge direct connection between the amp and sub
Installed, Back seats
Close Up
And even closer. Notice i had to turn the sub 90 degrees because the sub was mounted so low in the box and it wouldn't fit right because of the speaker wire.
Thanks for looking!
. Honestly how many of us have set our gains with oscopes and never blown a single thing? I mean if this thing tells u to turn your gain down a little even tho you've had it set (with your oscope) and bumping with no issues for a long time are you really gonna do it? 
Post Pictures Of Your DC Subs/Amps!
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
Posted
My Level 3 12" m2, freaking love this thing!