Jump to content

Stephen_og

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    341

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Stephen_og

  7. wiring speakers and rms?

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    I've read all of your posts, and youre really overthinking a lot of this. What are the impedances of the tweeters you're choosing, and the mid drivers(8")? That will determine what power you are getting from the amp. And just a little FYI, that amp CAN actually put out more than 400WRMS. Fosgate amps do more than rated.

    *Edit-You want to run your soundstage in STEREO because mono won't have any left to right differences. It won't give you the true sound in the way it was intended to be heard.

    Yes i know your right i am over thinking this i just want to get it right cause im not sure. All sppeakers are at an 8 ohm load

    This. Your best bet is to get a 2 channel amp that does close to 200 watts RMS each channel. If im reading it right, you will have 2 speakers per channel. all speakers are 8 ohms and running the two speakers in parallel cuts the ohm load in half, 4 ohms. look in to Soundigitals new 250.2. it does 250 watts RMS at 4 ohms. just my two cents.

    Sounds good so i decided i will go ahead and get a 2 channel... i will look into that sound digital

    want my advice? ditch the "bass blockers" and get a real passive x-over.

    you see those "bass blockers" are a simple 6db per octave passive crossover that 1. can handle very little power (as they were designed for HU power) and 2. do very little in the way of protecting your tweeters

    say your tweet can play down to 3k hz at a 24db per octave id feel safe putting my high pass right at 3k

    for a 6db per octave id want it set more at 6k and even then it may be a little iffy

    i like 18 db and up x-overs

    as for your other questions good luck

    Ok so i will go ahead and ditch the bass blockers... and on the passive cross over would something like this>>> http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33608_Audiobahn-ASX02J.html?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=froogle or do you mean something like this>> http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23146_Power-Acoustik-C-3184.html Just references not the real products im looking at

    Iwould go with your first choice, the audibahn or how everyou spell it x-over. something simple to get started with and its your common x-over. But if you plan on getting, or already have subs, sub amp that would be your way to go it has front and rear, and sub control on it. It all comes down to your needs and what you want bro.

  8. wiring speakers and rms?

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    I've read all of your posts, and youre really overthinking a lot of this. What are the impedances of the tweeters you're choosing, and the mid drivers(8")? That will determine what power you are getting from the amp. And just a little FYI, that amp CAN actually put out more than 400WRMS. Fosgate amps do more than rated.

    *Edit-You want to run your soundstage in STEREO because mono won't have any left to right differences. It won't give you the true sound in the way it was intended to be heard.

    This. Your best bet is to get a 2 channel amp that does close to 200 watts RMS each channel. If im reading it right, you will have 2 speakers per channel. all speakers are 8 ohms and running the two speakers in parallel cuts the ohm load in half, 4 ohms. look in to Soundigitals new 250.2. it does 250 watts RMS at 4 ohms. just my two cents.

  9. wiring speakers and rms?

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    never go by what the amp says its MAX power is, RMS is your true power thats going to your speakers, subs etc. and tell my what that picture was so I can get a sense ofwhat yourtalking about.. the computer at my work wont let me see it.
    I know that i only go by the rms i am just wondering if more than 1 speaker is wired together does the rms get added together. and my picture posted is of a 2channel amp with 2 svc 8ohm tweeters on each channel a total of 4 tweeters (wired at 4ohm load) 70wrms each tweeter and 2 8" midbass svc 8 ohm (wired to 4ohm load)bridged between the 2 channels 150wrms each midbass speaker. Or my first picture posted is of 2 svc 8ohm tweeters 100wrms each tweeter and 2 svc 8ohm midbass speakers 150wrms each midbass all wired down to a 2ohm load in a mono amp that could have a frequency response of 20-20000hz
    also, wiring like that will change the crossover points if you are using a passive crossover. raise the impedance, lower the crossover point, lower the impedance, raise the crossover point.
    yes i am using passive crossovers i think they are called that anyways. Im talking about the little cylinder capacitors with the 2 wire points on the ends, or some of the stinger products. So if i wire the tweeters as shown in pic 2 i would use the crossover points at the wire connection where it meets pos to pos then wires to amp? And i would use the proper crossover to block frequency points from a 4ohm load? EX. 0-600hz@ 4ohm. And what about if use the first option where i got all speaker wired at the 2ohm load on a mono block, where would i put the crossover on the tweeters and what ohm load would i use to calculate the crossover point?

    No i dont believe RMS gets added togehter but someone correct me if im wrong, just whatever ohm load you wire to, the RMS watts will go evenly to those two speakers per channel.

  12. Subwoofer for a T1000-1bdCP

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    Are you looking for something is the same price range as your L7? If your looking for somethin that would handle in your 1500 watts RMS range DC makes the 15" XL thats 1500 watts RMS. Contact one of the handleful of dealers on the forum or go to the website for pricing. Like everyone is saying your going to have to make a new enclosure, and iirc the cutout for kickers square subs isnt round, correct me if im wrong. Plus you can always ask the dealers on here for recommended enclosure sizes for that perticular sub.

    Hope this helps

  13. WTB Pair of DC or Memphis CM cast mojos

    in Want To Buy

    Posted

    So as the title says im looking into getting a pair of either DC 12s or a Pair of Memphis CM cast mojo 12s. For the DC's I would like them to be lvl 4s if you have them.

    New or used. If they are used I dont want them to have been abused or pushed to the limit.

    shipping is too 98001, so if your interested PM me or reply with what the cost would be WITH shipping..

    Thanks

  18. The Mechman turbo Mustang!

    in Off Topic Vids

    Posted · Edited by Stephen_og

    What made him go turbo? Three reasons:

    1. Turbos are MUCH more traction friendly. As boost comes in in proportion to speed of the turbine, which is a function of RPM, it's much more manageable.

    2. Turbos do not take HP to spin them - rather, they are spun by spent exhaust . . . a byproduct of every engine. To put this in perspective, the blower on John Force's funny car takes over 800 hp just to spin it. Of course, it also makes 60 pounds of boost . . . just sayin' . .

    3. NOTHING feels as fast as a FAST turbo car (fast = 11s or quicker). As boost continues to increase through the RPM you are pulled further and further back into the seat. This is a function of the hp and tq curves and it's AWESOME.

    And I have two different blown cars - a roots blown and a centrifugal blown. The roots blown makes 13 pounds of boost at 6,200 RPM - 10 of it instantly . . . from idle if you need it. This results in IMMEDIATE torque . . . as in like a nitrous car, but as quick as you like. This is EXTREMELY difficult to manage so I can't get in it until 25 mph or so on the street or it wants to swap ends. The centrifugal is on my 2003 Mustang GT . . . it makes great hp at the wheels, but would make 10 - 15% more without the engine having to use hp to spin it (same can be said for the roots btw). This is much more traction friendly as boost comes in similar to that of a turbo - proportional to RPM. It tops out at 10 PSI at about 6,400 RPM, which is as much as I'll dare with the stock bottom end. This car dead hooks from 5 mph - like, not even a squeak from the tires. Power shifting the 1-2 is pretty violent and it kicks the ass-end sideways so that you know you're having fun. Even though I don't street race any more, you'd need a much faster car to beat it from light to light. Evos and WRX STIs need not apply.

    Matt - get that air filter OUT from behind the radiator - duct that to the front of the car or the cowl to get some nice cool air! For every 10 degree drop in IAT, you'll increase efficiency by 1%.

    Two thumbs WAY up on this one!

    Im picking up what your throwing down.. lol I wish my car could be turboed.. I know theres the mazdaspeed 6 but I have the 3.0L and they only made that in the 2.3L.. but on the flip side they do have a supercharger for the 3.0L 6's

  20. WTB KnuKonceptz 1/0 power/ ground wire

    in Want To Buy

    Posted

    I looking for around 50', doesnt have to be a spool but if thats what you got hit me up, of KnuKonceptz power and ground wire for a couple runs to my trunk for my extra battery, and big 3 that I will be doing. Doesnt matter if its Kolossus fleks, KCA, or KLMX.

    New or used ( if used I would like it to be in some what good shape).

    Shoot me some offers, Kind of on a budget so if it could be under 100 shipped that would be great.

    Thanks,

    Stephen

  24. Master/slave question

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    No you would wire your woofers to 2ohm....

    (1ohm + 1ohm = 2ohm final load)

    If you wire them to 1ohm each strapped amp would be at .5

    (.5 + .5 = 1ohm final load)

    SO to get this right, I wont be able to get the full 1200 rated power out of the amps without going to .5 ohms per amp?

    Im know these are all noob questions but im just trying to unde3rstand the whole ohm laod, impedence bullshit, i appreciate your help bro.

    Don't do .5 unless you got the electrical to back it up. Wire your subs final load to 2ohms. Check that with a DMM.

    When you do a 2 ohm load, And you have two amps in master & slave, The 2 ohm load splits, and each amp see's 1 ohm final. And at 1 ohm final load, you get the power its rated at 1 ohm. ( Considering you have the electrical to back that up at 1 ohm, And it does rated. ) I hope this makes sense.

    That makes perfect sense. Just to make sure im understanding it correctly, When you do run amps in master slave/strapped, in a sense the amps are already preset for a 1 ohm load but depending on how you wire your subwoofers for a final impedence, it could change the ohm load being wired to the master amp im assuming?

  25. Master/slave question

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    No you would wire your woofers to 2ohm....

    (1ohm + 1ohm = 2ohm final load)

    If you wire them to 1ohm each strapped amp would be at .5

    (.5 + .5 = 1ohm final load)

    SO to get this right, I wont be able to get the full 1200 rated power out of the amps without going to .5 ohms per amp?

    Im know these are all noob questions but im just trying to unde3rstand the whole ohm laod, impedence bullshit, i appreciate your help bro.

×
×
  • Create New...