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Stephen_og

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Posts posted by Stephen_og

  1. uh oh... lol. when you strap amps (thats what you're talking about doing) they put out twice the power of one amp but at 2ohm (for a 1ohm stable amp). doing that, each amp actually sees 1ohm.

    what you meannn uh ohh? lol and thanks man, i appreciate it.

    uh oh... lol. when you strap amps (thats what you're talking about doing) they put out twice the power of one amp but at 2ohm (for a 1ohm stable amp). doing that, each amp actually sees 1ohm.
    THISanother example is If you wire your final impedance from your woofer(s) to 1ohm to a pair of strapped amps, each amp is actually seeing a .5 ohm load

    I dont want to go below 1 ohm lol not tryna blow anything. so to get where each amp is seeing 1 ohm a piece I would wire my subs to to have a final impedence soo each woofer only see's 1 ohm?

  2. when you add a slave amp to an existing amp you already have, I have one cadence Flash F1200-1D, planning on getting a second one once I get new subwoofers(btw these amps let you run master/slave mode), does the power from the slave amp equal what you have your subwoofers wired to on the master amp?

    example:

    if you have the the amp running at 1 ohm, does the slave amp push the amount of watts at 1 ohm as well?

  3. Unless you are going over 2kw you can just use one good battery up front.

    Yeah, Soon i will be getting another cadence F1200-1D to run as a slave and at that point is when I will be adding another battery. there 1200RMS at 1 ohm but right now I am only going to be running the one I will be getting in a couple days at 2 ohms which is 760 RMS, and plus once I get the DC level 4 12's im wanting to get, I will be running two of the cadence amps at 1 ohm.

  4. never heard of an isolater or batteries killing eachother haha. If you wire them the way I told you, you should be fine. +to+ -to- I do recommend upgrading the ground from the stock battery like I said. Grounds are important.

    so going + to + and - to - its a better option then grounding the battery in the back or is it just for preference?

  5. Umm + fuse + and - with -.... Not a rocket science my friend .

    I know its not, but knowing me and just searching for it myself i would find some way to fuck it up lol

    Just wire + from the front batt to + on the rear batt with 1/0, then ground the second batt in the rear. Fuseholders on both ends of the wire and you'll be good to go

    thanks my dude

    to wire in a second battery you can either run + to + and - to - and upgrade the ground on the stock battery or +to+ and ground the second battery VERY good to the frame sanded down very solid if your new to this i recommend just wiring the batteries together it will be easiest and you dont need to worry about making a ground for the second battery depending on the power you run either add another run of 4 gauge wire from the stock battery to ground or upgrade it to 1/0 gauge and dont forget to put at least one fuse on the + run

    thanks bro

    You dont need to add a battery isolater or whatever theyre called? lol just wondering because from what i heard they will eventually kill each other in like a week or so?

    ummmmm.. whats a battery isolater?? lol

  6. In the very near future, I will be adding an extra battery in my trunk to help with electrical power with the amps that will be in my trunk. Right now, my system doesnt need the whole nine yards of alts, batts etc but as I put high rated amps in there I will be doing this. I was wondering if any one had, or if its already on here could you point me in the right direction, a diagram of how to wire, and the the right wiring, to put a battery back there. If anyone could help that would be awesome.

  7. Are you looking at 600 for two or 600 each?

    try contacting rusty from DC on the forums, im sure you could get some level 3 or level 4 12s (D2 or D4, whatever you decide) for a very good price and possibly in your price range. level 3 or level 4 subs could handle that amp you will be running just fine imo

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