SPLVan
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Posts posted by SPLVan
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Thanks guys!
so if it blows really hot heat and at a good speed the heater core is good right?
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2.8L 6 but its an auto.. oh well
And ive never heard of a heatercore causing overheating.. im not doubting you man, just trying to learn can you explain?
If the heater core is leaking or stopped up, then this is crucial. It will inhibit the flow of the coolant through the whole cooling system. It would be about the same as a radiator hose, or the radiator itself leaking or being stopped up.
how can i test to see if the heater core is blocked up?
does it take a long period of time to blow heat or no heat at all?
wouldnt know didnt turn the heat on for the test drive. ill have to take a MUCH better look next time i go look at it.
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2.8L 6 but its an auto.. oh well
And ive never heard of a heatercore causing overheating.. im not doubting you man, just trying to learn can you explain?
If the heater core is leaking or stopped up, then this is crucial. It will inhibit the flow of the coolant through the whole cooling system. It would be about the same as a radiator hose, or the radiator itself leaking or being stopped up.
how can i test to see if the heater core is blocked up?
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4 or 6 ? Don't sound to hard to fix up , if u like them go for it man , u can buy little plack pellets to plug up rad leeks but u must replace thermostat if that is prob , it might be heater core and they are fuckers to repace
2.8L 6 but its an auto.. oh well
And ive never heard of a heatercore causing overheating.. im not doubting you man, just trying to learn can you explain?
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I know this isnt a troubleshooting type forum but theres gotta be atleast one guy here that knows enough that can help me. so here i go Im looking to buy an 86 GT 92k miles and very clean just a little bit of rust on the unibody. and the only other two issues are a rough start up but there is no EGR hose so i would replace both the EGR and the hose. the second thing is the worst. it overheats very quickly. in about 10 minutes of idling it reached just above 220. he admitted to the radiator leaking, but said the thermostat was replaced. there is no coolant or any fluid in the oil and no smell/color from the exhaust. it comes with a new coolant pipe for under the car and new shocks and struts.
so
1. Would this be worth it to buy and fix up.
2. how easy would it be?
3. what is the most likely reason for it?
4. is there anyway i can temporally fix it so i can limp her home about 10 minutes without damaging the motor?
any help is appreciated thanks!
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I think I'm still gonna go look at it with someone who knows enoug about imports. Maybe its an easy cheap fix. If not ill leave it alone. Thanks for all the input guys!
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im looking for a good gas saver, so i began looking on craigslist for civics. ive found one that is really close to me. but its got a replaced motor that wont start, im hoping those of you with import knowledge will chime in Click me! im hoping i can get him down lower. if not is this a good deal. and would it be worth it? all help/comments are greatly appreciated!
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find the subs optimal ported box volume.(should be in your manual) then Use Torre's calculator to find the specs for the sides and etc. and you can tune your port as well.
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Both work great when done properly. port volume is port volume no matter what shape/design.
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i bought some cheap ebay $11 one. its only got a positive and negative wire. i tried wiring the positive to the remote and i got like 9v LOL. i guess its time for a toggle. maybe if i get ambitious ill get one of these illuminated ones
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I just got my new volt meter. it works great hooked up to the positive and negative terminals on the amp. but it stays on when the car's ignition is off. the amp/headunit is all off. but the volt meter is still on. how do i fix it/where do i wire it to. sorry for the noob question
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But that's also what I'm trying to see what's the final impedance of 8 dual 4 subs and the final impedance of 8 dual 2 subs.
i cant see why you cant wire them to whatever you want. 2 ohms 1 ohm. just need to find a diagram or do some reading on wiring in parallel. or series
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if you use one. and somehow it makes 100% of its rated power. youre gonna be getting 1500wRMS and all 8 subs need 1600wRMs so you'll be underpowering a tad. but i dont think it would be an issue.ill do some looking and see if i can find a diagram to wire them all down to 1 ohm
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=4&I=42#results
The top option is to wire down to .5 ohm. but in any case you're gonna need two amps to power all 8.
EDIT: actually if you wire 4 to 2 ohms. your amp will give you 800WRMS and 4 of your subs will require 800w RMS so just get another saz1500d and run the other 4 and you will be golden!
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looks to me like you can strap them. but dont take my word. i am a
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Depends on the amp. do you have an idea of which subs+amps you want to use?
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unless your subs are less than 150wRMS a piece. you're gonnna need two separate amps to power them all to them full ability.
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what impedance are the subs?
For two ohm subs. just wire 4 together.. and the other 4 the same way. you're gonna need two amps anyway.
For Four ohm subs same thing wire two sets of 4 subs.
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how much will the reading differ from wiring from the amp. vs. straight from the battery with a toggle?
Not a damn bit. And wire it to the pos and neg of the amp. That is the most important number to know. A switch is NOT a load, so it won't affect the display accuracy.
ok thanks for your help!
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im kind of confused on how those work. if they are wired right to the battery. are they always on?
Wiring it to the pos and neg of the amp is the best way to do it. And what i did was put a toggle switch on one of the leads in my console so i only have the meter on when i give demos or compete.
how much will the reading differ from wiring from the amp. vs. straight from the battery with a toggle?
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you wire it to something that gets power when the ign is on...
I was thinking about wiring it to the pos/ground of my amp. but will the reading be accurate after all that wire? sorry for the noob questions. im looking at getting one and want to know as much as possible
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i got mine from here. the green one to be exact.
im kind of confused on how those work. if they are wired right to the battery. are they always on?
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I heard having a stock battery up front and a better one added on will do damage to the new one.. This true?
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Just a quick question i was looking at tat audiopipe amp and im noticing some weird features. number one being. its not fused(but it comes shipped with an in-line-fuseholder) so really not a big deal.but is there a benefit to not fusing directly into the amp, and another thing. it says it comes shipped with a remote bass knob. but i see no where in the pictures to plug that in? anyone?
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I think ill be going with the AUDIOPIPE APSM-1300 thanks guys!
Sorry double post.. how do you delete this?
Calling all fiero experts!
in Engine and Performance - Anything for that couple extra horses!
Posted
well the guy sold the fiero from right under me. anyway while ive got your attention. lets name so nice american muscle project cars!