kylecm85
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Posts posted by kylecm85
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was it a stinger and i would see if they would do 0awg for u. it will help u out with current and save u money by not haveing to take out the 4awg and put 0awg in.
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WOW i dont think i have ever seen anything this nasty. I feel bad for whoever has to clean that up.
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i had sirius for awhile and liked it just didnt feel like paying for it anymore and octane is the shit for rock
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sounds like maybe something going on in the amp if u already tried switching rcas and it still does it. Do u have ur rcas going in to one amp out of the same amp and into another soret of like daisy chaining them. Are ur rcas and power ran on diffrent sides of the vehicle.
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yeah u will b fine doing 4 awg just let me know how it goes
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you said wjen u unhook the sub amp it goes away in your door speakers. Thats what makes me think it might be a groundloop problem. Try putting both the grounds for all the amps to the same spot in the vehicle
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does it sound like engine noise or just a constant squealing out of them. I would check the grounds first
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i only use overdrive on the highway it is just like everyone else stated that its another gear for better gas mileage as far as the race it depends alot of diffrent things . cant really say who wins a race just by the car
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no prob man if u need anything else let me know or just pm me. Hope everything works out. By the way like the car. Looks good
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i mean if i did that in a customers car i would not be alowed to roll it.If it was me in your situation i would run a acc power to the acc under the dash and a constant 12 volts straight to the batt. Since the factory amp is bad you cant do anything with it but use it as a paper weight. But if it works out for you then best of luck.
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i personal have not done that. You said the headunit is not turning off with the car so that makes me think by conecting all the wires together u just eliminated the acc power. which pretty much just sends the power to the deck to turn on and off. So if it works out then i guess all is good. But it will always have a constant pull with it hooked up that way.
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thats cool when u connected them together did they go to the red wire coming out of the interface harness or did they go to the yellow
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do you mean you just hooked both together. If so u are still going to loose memory the red is an acc that just has power when the car is on. But try it and let me know what happens.
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clipping is bad no matter for how long. So i would not try to clip things it is just going to cause things to go bad.
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i say go for it. Even if u dont work on it at the moment. You can make it a project over a little while.
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yeah it will not mess with any computer parts of the car. It just sounds like the deck gets it constant/memory from the factory amp. But there is deff something going on inside of that factoy amp. It should not pull 2.5 amps at rest. Just try that and let me know what happens. If that does not fix the problem i will call a tech line at work and see what they suggest doing.
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try running a wire from the battery to the yellow wire on the deck. Put a 10 amp fuse close to the battery. That should take care of the memory problem.
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yeah it sounds like it is the factory amp causing the problem. If i remember right you said you have a four chanel runing your door speakers if so u can leave the factory amp fuse out. It is not doing anything. It sounds like it has some kind of short in it somewhere. Let me know what happens when you leave tht fuse out for a period of time. Make sure the battery is charged after you take it out so you can get an accurate measurment if it happens again.
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i have the formulas writen down at work for all kinds of box designs i will try to post it if i remember to bring it home. I just dont remember them off the top of my head.
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try going to the12volt.com they have a port calculator that has helped me out. They also have box calculators for diffrent shapes to.
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its not that hard to do a basic amp sub combo. But if you do not feel comfortable doing it take it to a shop and have them do it. In the mean time just do some research and figure out how things work and how to hook them up. If you have questions dont be afraid to ask someone that is why people join forums to talk about things and ask questions good luck.
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honestly i have never used it i just go to the manufactures website and get the box size i need and build it to fit the vehicle that i am doing. Is there a reason you want to use a program.
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WinISD that is a program thet gave us at IIT audio in orlando when we finished
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ok here is what u have to do
1. the positive lead on your meter should be in the jack marked "A" and the negitave should be in the com position.
2. set the meter to DC ampres.
3 disconect the negitave lead on the battery.
4. the positive lead goes the the loose negitave battery cable.
5. the negitave lead goes to the negitave battery post.
6 Leave alone for 30 sec to one minute. The current draw needs to settle.
7.Check the measurment n the display. Pull the fuse from the components that are suspected of the currnt draw. Most cars from the factory will have a standby current draw of 30 -45 ma.
Make sure all the lights are off and nothing is on when you are checking. If you pull the radio fuses out and the current does not change then you know that is not what is causing it to die. Just pull until you find what the problem is.
Hope this helps out
Time To Vote For Installer Of The Year
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Posted
my store made it on the 2-3 chain autosound inc Lexington ky. Coogle u deff have my vote