JustinWillmon
-
Posts
355 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by JustinWillmon
-
-
Not sure on the geometry as i dont know how to do the different sides, if it were all the same i think you would have figured it out.
But your elite design inc tag had me rolling hahah
-
DIdnt read the whole thread but i would say go ahead and upgrade your electrical before you do either amp. I learned that running watts that high can cause voltage drop with no upgrades of the electrical which in turn can damage your equipment of you wont get optimal performance out of it. Beef up your electrical right the first time so later on you wont have to worry about it and you can just upgrade your amp and subs as needed without worrying if you have the electrical to back it up.
-
Nice looking stuff man, may have to check out your place when im around houston.
-
same here. He designed a 4th order blow-through for my truck. You can go to his page and get a quote just fill in with everything you want and it will generate a price before you even order it.
-
Sorry about this going slower then i thought. I had just planned on doing a false floor and rewiring everything. Decided against the floor as it makes the floor to tall for a properly sized box. Tomorrow hopefully i can get the amp rack i have in my head built up and installed. I finished tearing out all the old wire plus other random wiring that had been there for a long time that literally was for nothing. But tomorrow should have pictures of the amp rack as well as hopefully the speaker pods for up front for the 6.5 components that are going in.
-
Yeah ram_desings just did me a 4th order blowthrough for 4 15" subs. I'd check with him and get something designed.
-
I think JL makes some good stuff but like you i think its way overpriced, ill take my money elsewhere and buy something just as good if not better for half the price.
-
Thanks guys ill see if i can get some pictures of how it was when we first got it. I was 9 i think and im 20 now so weve had it awhile, still needs some work but not bad for a poor boy haha. If yall have any ideas on something yall would do let me know im always open to new ideas.
-
Yeah thats what i have for my fronts in my truck that i need to still put in, ill talk to him about those. But yeah that is the old box, its a pre-fab so nothing special. He just wants it to look factory sort of so i was thinking of just a box for the 10 he has with a slot port. The main thing im concerned about is the speakers up front. There under the dash so its a tough fit, i tried talking him into glassing the doors but he wasnt having it haha
-
Well this is my first build log on here. Im waiting on money to get my build in my truck started but my dad finally has his car up at his shop so i started on it. Its a 1969 Camato RS/SS Convertible with a small block 350. All the equipoment going in is basically just stuff we have had for awhile. Im trying to make it sound good but keeping it looking factory as thats the way he likes it so just doing what he says. Plans are to rewire everything, build a false floor in the trunk, and build a box. Still undecided on the speakers up front as the convertible has no rear door speakers or rear deck so not sure on what im gonna do there so any ideas?
Equipment we have so far is gonna be as follows:
Kicker 750.1
Kicker 350.4
Kicker CVR 10
Kenwood CDA-148
Taking everything out of the trunk
Repainted the Nitrtous bottle to match the Car. Was white with some chips in it filled those with body filler and shot it with some paint.
Test fitting the bottle
-
-
One more thing this may be dumb but i need help on wiring that battery in the back. I assume just run positive on front battery to positive on rear battery and the same for negative and then ground it after my wires are ran.
Reason i ask is i keep reading about isolators and all that stuff and then i saw where you had to have the same identical battery in the front as the rear ones? Can someone help me out with this?
-
I guess ill go with 100 ft of it to start with and see where that gets me. For now it will only be ran to the one battery and later on if i think i need to make more runs hopefully ill have extra wire.
-
Alright thats what i was thinking as i saw that its oxygen free copper, dont know what that means just heard its good? Surely 100 ft will be good for a few runs.
Im gonna be running 4 dc lvl 4's off of about 5-7 k watts. Right now i just have a d3100 in the back gonna add another and a dc 270 amp alt in the next few weeks.
Would yall just run 2 positive and 2 negative runs to each battery?
-
Alright guys i got a quick question. Im about to order some knu power wire for my runs of 0 gauge to the back. I noticed all the colors besides red are out of stock. But my question is which is better to buy the Kolossus Fleks Cable or the Kca Cable.
This is my first time doing a big install and im taking the electrical over the top so later on i can just upgrade the gear, but anyways let me know what will work best.
-
from the store or itunes
-
Yeah out in Cali I'm sure there should be lots of help. If I was you though like I said I wouldn't necessarily be worried about your subs getting x amount of watts. Have the proper electrical to back uo that dc equipment and get your gains set with either a o-scope or if you or someone out In Cali buys or let's use you steves new distortion detector you should be plenty happy with your setup.
-
In your case though i would let a shop do it, or even find someone on here close that knows what there doing that would be willing to help you out to save some cash. Not trying to be a dick but i would hate for you to blow your equipment by messing with the gain knob
-
Im not saying dont use the shop, i would definitely use the o-scope over this method or buy steve's new distortion detector and do it yourself.
You asked how to know how many watts your subs are getting and that formula is simply one way to do it, although i cant gurantee you wouldnt be clipping as im not there to see your system or hear it. In no way am i saying that this formula should replace using an o-scope or anything like that i was simply giving a formula for you to see how many watts your subs are getting if you want.
-
no i was talking about the square root of watts x ohms (resistance)= voltage
Get your voltage then hook your amp up to a dmm and turn the gain until you get the same voltage as the formula gives you. This definitely isnt the best way to set your amp but you asked how to figure out how you know when your subs are getting x amount of wattage.
If i was you wi wouldnt worry about getting exactly 800 watts, just set the amp so its giving good clean power and if its only 650 watts i doubt you could tell the difference between that and 800 watts.
edit: Still have to run a 40-50 hz test tone signal to set it with a dmm
-
There a formula you can use to estimate the amount of wattage your sending to your sub, i think using a dmm is what works. Im pretty sure this could cause clipping so i would still get it checked with an o-scope but im pretty sure there is a formula for rms, dont quote me on it though as i may be wrong.
-
Lol arent we all. No hard feelings though
-
Damn thats a long time to be running around with a huge hole in my truck for my blowthrough haha. Ill assume that was sarcasm i just want to have everything up and running and completely done by around early august or middle august so just seeing if they would be in before then.
-
Hey guys for my build I'm going with 4 15" level 4 with lvl 5 upgrades. I know there was a wait, so how long would I be looking at before I get mine if I ordered within the next week?
.gif){kind=small}
Need sone help for a friend real quick
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
My buddy is trying to get some subs for his truck. It's an 08 chevy silverado 4 door. He already has a probox for 2 12" but his mounting depth is only 5.5 inches. He was gonna go with fosgate p3 but since they don't fit I told him to wait and I would see what y'all think. His budget is around 300 for the pair. Any help?