DeepBassAddiction
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Posts posted by DeepBassAddiction
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Your Width of 8" is way too wide for a slot port in that volume. I'm going to bed, maybe someone else can help. My advice is download the Torres calculator found in this forum and play with it yourself. It will give you much more accurate results. And the port ITSELF is inside the box so that decreases your volume. Try a width on your port of about 4 inches.
I can get it up to 9⁴s by bringing my depth up to 26"... puts it at 9.00⁴ft
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AFTER brcing, subwoofer, AND port displacements. A big L port eats into your net displacement in a big way. So shoot for like 9 cubes before any displacements. I'd seriously go with a couple nice 12's tuned around 34-35 and call it done in the space we know you have.
Well wouldn't the l port its self take the place of bracing along with the 45°s in the corners?
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Port W 8"
Port H 16.5"
Box volume 6.801⁴ft
Hz 32
=
Port L 41.58"
Correct?
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Soundstream t-5 = 3⁴ft apeice...
DC lvl3 = 3⁴ft apeice...
So ill see if I can bring it up to 6-7⁴ft
If I add 1" to my depth ill bring it up to 6⁴... if I bring it up by 3" it will be 6.9⁴... would that work?
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With the Pvc as a port you should flare each end. I would use a torch or heatgun and a stainless bowl thats the right size.
I know buddy, I was actually thinking about makein Aero ports to sell them...
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Your l-port doesn't have any air space left for subs and is tuned to 92 Hz before displacements and .68 cu ft after port displacement. Your Aeroport design is better but a little small on port area and with estimated displacement of just subs you are sitting at about 35 Hz. Net air space in the Aeroport box is a little under 5 cubes. Not enough air space IMO.
Yet again... rookie/amature/noob... idk what ur talking about wit the "l" port... I used the12volt.com's box/port calculators... so what did I do wrong?
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Ok my question is... which of the 2 ports do you (in your opinion) think would be better...
CLASS: TRUNK
BOX: H 18", W 40", D 17", ⁴ft 5.69813...
SUBS: 2 15"s Soundstream Or DC...
Hz: 32
PORT 1: "L" Shaped Slot Port, W 8", H 16.5", L 51.48"...
PORT 2: Aero Port, D 8", L 17"...
Keep in mind ill be competing Amateur/Rookie... I'm not sure if that effects what kind of port I can have...
I have 5 tubes of 8" PVC pipe... I also have 6" but I want to go 8"...
Let me know what you guys think...
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Subbed n joined... love it
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Actually spl audio is a generic version of SOUNDSTREAM. All of there products are the same
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I also bought a amp from tthem it was DOA currently in the shipping process
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If its not soundstream its not for me. I have a soundstream head unit, bx-15, mids, highs, and a tx4 for my mids n highs.
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NA just once they shipped it free. Gotta look for a new tx1.2000d now
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Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz... soundstream had me check the bottom of the amp and the warranty sticker is voided... this means that I wss shipped a Manufacturer Refurbished amp, instead of the BRAND NEW one they said they were selling me... getting my $ back this is bs
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do you have a DMM?
usually when the amp goes directly into protect like that it's one of two things...bad amp, or low impedance/dead short. Disconnect the speakers and RCA. If it still protects it's a bad amp.
This is why I don't like online sales.
The power led comes on but only for a second. Then its protect. I mean you would think if your buying from a authorized dealer it would be all good... redick...
I don't have ne thing plugged into it. Jut rem, per, grnd...
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if you have another amp hook it up if it doesnt go into protect its the new amp its defected. if the other amp goes into protect then its your wiring.
now the comments below mine are about to say shit like u need 0gauge dont listen to em noobs
No I sold my old amp. I have a cap some where would that work?
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[qucote name=azagtoth502' timestamp='1311847236' post='1627001]
If the fuse was too small it would just pop the fuse, are you sure the impedance load is correct?
Did the 60a fuse ever pop? The manual calls for a 200a fuse.
Never. And I know it calls for a 200amp. I'm quite frustrated.
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So I just got my soundstream TX1.2000D from Floor50.com. (a authorized soundstream dealer) I spreader had a amp in my car but I sold it so all my old wires were in place. I just had to screw them into the amp. I started my car, turned on my radio, the red POWER led on the amp came on, and it went into protect mode and the blue led came on... "WHAT THE F★★K"
I went checked my ground/power wires, speaker wires, rca's... turned it on... PROTECT...
Unplugged my rca's in screwed the speakers... turned it on PROTECT...
any ideas would help. I know its not my subs they play the day I took out the old amp...
?bad ground? (Grounded at rear strut tower)
?low power? (4g wire, the manual calls for 2 or 4 gauge, I only have a 60amp fuse on the power wire... should I go grab a 100amp?)
Please let me know if ya got ne ideas cuz idk I'm quite pissed...
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It needs bracing, but the space he gave is workable. It would only be slightly smaller than what he needs, but that's a negligible amount.
What program is this...
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Then ur best option is threw ur rear deck lid.
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I'm telling u if u make that box as big as you possibly can an squeeze out a inch or 2 on ur face plate then it will fit
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there she blows caption... i believe it should work. place your subs higher up instead of centering them. about as close to the top as you can get. then put them as far apart as your can. and you should be able to squeeze that port right down there at the bottom snugged up against the sides of the woofers between/below them. iv see it done before.
then u can face it rear and it should slap quite nice.
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is there any way you can squeeze like 1" to 1.5" inches out of ur ish height wise... if so i totally got u on a design.
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Hey man give me a bit to draw something up. Ru gonna use 3/4" mdf or 1"
HELP: Stuck Between Ports...
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
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What if I got with the 6⁴ft and a Aero port? I'm thinking now about not going L port... but I love the way a L looks. Then again I can take my Aero n put my port outta the box