Jump to content

01VWGREENMACHINE

Members
  • Posts

    421
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by 01VWGREENMACHINE

  1. check your fuses

    and what brand of alt where did you get it from

    i have 2 volt meters in my car 1 directly to my 200a singer alt (it is a beast) and 1 on the back battery.

    know when at idle i sit at 12.7 v but when i rev my motor it goes to 14.1

    if i run my system fulltilt at idle my volts will drop to high 11's

    but if i rev my motor 200 rpms my voltage doesnt drop at all

    it effects both the front and the rear batt the same way

  2. Hmm. It snowed today and I noticed the voltage on my car being kinda low. Does cold weather dramatically affect the charged on xs d2400 or something?

    I only bumped it for 15 minutes during break with the car on and how can it be drained down to 12.3V with the car off so easily?

    12.3v is normal resting voltage with the car off nothing to worry about

  3. in my opinion you will need another alt to fix your problem battery's from what i am told is only a band-aid on a gunshot wound. was the same issue i was having i had 3 batts 1 upfront and 2 in the back my voltage was still dropping to 11's soon as i put a alt in to handle my power requirements my issue is no longer.

    the way i was told to calculate for amp draw from amps is take your total RMS and divide by the amount of volts your running it will give you the amount of amps your going to be drawing

    for your system your at 4800 rms give or take i always go on the high side just to be safe

    4800 rms

    / 14 v

    ------------

    342.85 amps

    but if you figure on the high side you should be fine with a 340 amp alt

    since you cant go any higher try and find dual alt bracket and throw another 100amp alt or bigger will solve all of your issues in my opinion

  4. Bringing this thread back from the dead.

    Would a kinetik 2400, XS power XP3000 and a few runs of 0 with the big 4 done work?

    the reason why most of us are telling you go with a new alt is because no matter how many batts you install its like throwing a band-aid on a gunshot wound your going to continue to drain the power faster then your alt can produce power so your eventually going to deplete those batts and at the price your talking for new batts you might as well save your self a shit ton of time money and headaches and just do an alt! beside most people are only going to charge 1 hour shop labor most your looking at to install it is 100 bucks so your in at 500 bucks if you get 2 of the batts your talking about you will have spent about the same amount of money. not including all the extra runs of 1/0 you want to run with those additional batts your back to square one so take everyone's advice and just buy an alt and solve all your problems =]

  5. i was thinking of running 4 SA 8v2 on 2000w rms, i know that part is fine. where i have a question is on the box. i have a 2006 mitsubishi galant and the rear seat does not fold down. there is a hole in the center for the arm rest, and i was thinking of running my port through there into the cabin. either that or porting out the rear deck. which would be a better option?

    i see alot of people do it throw the hole in the seat but some prefer it in the rear deck i would assume the rear deck would shake more but not to sure

  6. i m thinkin bout tradin ppi 500.1 for a pb1100.5 since the dudes only usin it for his subs anyways but how would i run it with my pb 300.2x.... i have my fron back and sub rca's out puts from my deck but haow would i run both? i ve yet to get my hands on the pb 1100 to see if it has an output but if it doesn t do i just use a equalizer? rca splitters? or what?

    get more RCA's i have 3 sets. 2 sets on front and rear to my t400.4 and 1 set on the t1500.1

  7. Hi, i have 2 12" JL w6v2's just bought from a JL authorized dealer, and a custom box they built with the subs facing down and port out the front.

    When the subs play anything below 30hz they make a very werid rattling noise, it is bearable but noticeable enough to have me worried(Almost sounds like a knocking). I can not tell if its the structure of the box or the actual subs making this noise, Any and all opinions are welcome !!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1q4efcqezU&feature=youtu.be

    ---Happens at ---

    3-5 seconds

    13-15 seconds

    22-24 seconds closest to side of sub woofer

    ---------------------------------------------

    JL Audio actually faxed the dealer the box design claiming it would work best in a softtop vehicle

    HD 1200.1 amp

    Head Unit Settings From Dealer

    Bass = -6

    Sub = +10

    Treb = 0

    Fade = +R2

    sounds like your box is coming apart a friend of mine had the same issue pulled the carpet back off the box and you could see it coming apart just a thought

×
×
  • Create New...