01VWGREENMACHINE
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Posts posted by 01VWGREENMACHINE
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i know i can download the tracks and burn them.
but i have ocd everything has to match.
and i was wondering if there was a way to buy another test cd for the dd1.
thanks for the help
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my guess is that it was cut and while driving the wire wiggled it self back inside making it appear as if it wer cut at the boot. just a thought
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a buddy of my had the same issue. we replaced both upper and lower control arms and cv. but since your "pro welding neighbor" killed your k-frame http://www.alltoyota...es/32749_01.jpg your going to need to replace it aswell as your tie rod and your cv again.
this is your problem lower control arm red circle
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umm when will this be released???? im going to site sit lol
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breakin my bank steve!! i gotta have it!
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i have a 200 amp singer alt and i abuse the shit out of it and my lights dont dim at all and i only payed $365 for mine
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as N8 already posted you should have a fuse between the front batt and the alt
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check your fuses
and what brand of alt where did you get it from
i have 2 volt meters in my car 1 directly to my 200a singer alt (it is a beast) and 1 on the back battery.
know when at idle i sit at 12.7 v but when i rev my motor it goes to 14.1
if i run my system fulltilt at idle my volts will drop to high 11's
but if i rev my motor 200 rpms my voltage doesnt drop at all
it effects both the front and the rear batt the same way
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Hmm. It snowed today and I noticed the voltage on my car being kinda low. Does cold weather dramatically affect the charged on xs d2400 or something?
I only bumped it for 15 minutes during break with the car on and how can it be drained down to 12.3V with the car off so easily?
12.3v is normal resting voltage with the car off nothing to worry about
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most of the prefab speaker box terminals are garbage anyway i just drilled holes and put bolt studs threw works great and they never fail!!!!
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i was having the same issue with mine
but it turns out i couldn't get good enough contact from my rca's to the dd1 it self. so i bought a right angle rca adapter
1 of these solved all of my issues
not sure if it will fix your problem but worth a shot to try =]
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in my opinion you will need another alt to fix your problem battery's from what i am told is only a band-aid on a gunshot wound. was the same issue i was having i had 3 batts 1 upfront and 2 in the back my voltage was still dropping to 11's soon as i put a alt in to handle my power requirements my issue is no longer.
the way i was told to calculate for amp draw from amps is take your total RMS and divide by the amount of volts your running it will give you the amount of amps your going to be drawing
for your system your at 4800 rms give or take i always go on the high side just to be safe
4800 rms
/ 14 v
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342.85 amps
but if you figure on the high side you should be fine with a 340 amp alt
since you cant go any higher try and find dual alt bracket and throw another 100amp alt or bigger will solve all of your issues in my opinion
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unless im wrong on my calculations your running at about 4800 rms??
with that you require about 340 amps (unless im wrong please correct me) this is why you are getting that kind of voltage drop
the big 3 will help but im not sure how much i think your gonna need another batt or 2 in the back as doodcody suggested.
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how long is the wire to the backup camera
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Bringing this thread back from the dead.
Would a kinetik 2400, XS power XP3000 and a few runs of 0 with the big 4 done work?
the reason why most of us are telling you go with a new alt is because no matter how many batts you install its like throwing a band-aid on a gunshot wound your going to continue to drain the power faster then your alt can produce power so your eventually going to deplete those batts and at the price your talking for new batts you might as well save your self a shit ton of time money and headaches and just do an alt! beside most people are only going to charge 1 hour shop labor most your looking at to install it is 100 bucks so your in at 500 bucks if you get 2 of the batts your talking about you will have spent about the same amount of money. not including all the extra runs of 1/0 you want to run with those additional batts your back to square one so take everyone's advice and just buy an alt and solve all your problems =]
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THANKS A STEVE!!!!!!!!
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i was thinking of running 4 SA 8v2 on 2000w rms, i know that part is fine. where i have a question is on the box. i have a 2006 mitsubishi galant and the rear seat does not fold down. there is a hole in the center for the arm rest, and i was thinking of running my port through there into the cabin. either that or porting out the rear deck. which would be a better option?
i see alot of people do it throw the hole in the seat but some prefer it in the rear deck i would assume the rear deck would shake more but not to sure
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should be the same part as vw golf 5 door unless vw changed shit but from what i have been told there almost exactly the same car besides the body and dash stuff
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Thanks Steve for the phone call to get my account figured out my order is 100001318 can i get it signed please?
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i m thinkin bout tradin ppi 500.1 for a pb1100.5 since the dudes only usin it for his subs anyways but how would i run it with my pb 300.2x.... i have my fron back and sub rca's out puts from my deck but haow would i run both? i ve yet to get my hands on the pb 1100 to see if it has an output but if it doesn t do i just use a equalizer? rca splitters? or what?
get more RCA's i have 3 sets. 2 sets on front and rear to my t400.4 and 1 set on the t1500.1
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Hi, i have 2 12" JL w6v2's just bought from a JL authorized dealer, and a custom box they built with the subs facing down and port out the front.
When the subs play anything below 30hz they make a very werid rattling noise, it is bearable but noticeable enough to have me worried(Almost sounds like a knocking). I can not tell if its the structure of the box or the actual subs making this noise, Any and all opinions are welcome !!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1q4efcqezU&feature=youtu.be
---Happens at ---
3-5 seconds
13-15 seconds
22-24 seconds closest to side of sub woofer
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JL Audio actually faxed the dealer the box design claiming it would work best in a softtop vehicle
HD 1200.1 amp
Head Unit Settings From Dealer
Bass = -6
Sub = +10
Treb = 0
Fade = +R2
sounds like your box is coming apart a friend of mine had the same issue pulled the carpet back off the box and you could see it coming apart just a thought
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i get 40 but not the 1k on my pioneer
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i been watching this thread for a week or so and if i remember correctly my kenwood x494 did not have this problem but my pioneer avh-4200dvd does. i will try to test in the next couple of days to see ill take video as well
DD-1 cd replacment
in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
Posted
Thanks for reading Orion
I e-mailed both West Coast Car Audio and D'Amore Engineering so ill wait on that