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01VWGREENMACHINE

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Posts posted by 01VWGREENMACHINE

  1. if this is a company build out like he says it is OEM has nothing to do with it. They'll have corporate level (size dependant) licensing for their software. Its not like they have a dell disk that is being used and it has to be that size because its what came in it.

    giving users 2tb is asking for trouble. /users can't be bothered to back up their data in case of a crash thats the potential for alot of missing stuff wiht the possibility of impacting day to day functionality. If you limit them on storage capability and force them to use a file server that is backed up regularly that limits the chance of data loss. But I'll go back to my hole now. I dont really know what I'm talking about.

    you are correct sir!

    we pretty much custom everything to each customer

  2. now that I saw what its for it makes more sense. Why are they using windows 7 for that?

    our systems are designed for ease of use for our consumer and we have rights to modify windows hehe from Microsoft! our capture software is also designed for use with windows only. so much more goes into then just that though

    can I work for you? I needz a job!

    if i could hire you i would sorry bro. good luck finding a job though

  3. I have a 20 TB array at home for personal use. Just a side note, I can get the WD2TB GD for $49 local. So it would be $3724. You can get the 3TB drives now for less than $99.

    nice i pay 40 a drive for western digital re4-gp enterprise 2tb drives

    these drives are the new advanced format drives not the standard av drives wich are still running around 100 bucs each they also payed for labor and hard drive trays as well

  4. im going to ask why?

    I dont know what you are going to do with a 2tb of drive and a 500gb OS partition? or are you installing win7 on each partition? Is this part of a virtual desktop environment or what? I could think of a million ways to do workstation builds that would make better sense.

    each drive has an install of windows 7. not each partition. a unnamed company ordered the hard drives to replace there current drives in there surveillance machines. and the job is already done cause i don't fuck around hehe.

  5. i know this sub is limited as far as wiring it up goes but i think if its done right i can reach a 1 ohm load with these woofers

    here is what the woofers look like

    t1d212-bottom-07.png

    here is the jumper to switch between 4 ohm or 1 ohm

    t1d212.jpg

    i may be wrong but from what i under stand if you series it doubles the ohm load and when you parallel it cuts ohm load in half.

    correct me if im wrong.

    so my idea is to series the subs together with a starting ohm load of 1 ohm per sub witch will then make it 2 ohm then parallel the subs into the amp to make it 1 ohm in the end here is my diagram to show you what i mean.

    WIREB.jpg

    this is how i currently have them set up for a 2 ohm load

    WIREC.jpg

    thanks for all the help

  6. i had a 150 amp fuse on 4gauge to my t1500.1 bdcp. it was doing the same thing yours was doing. it melted the fuse holder and fuse so i removed it and went with just a strait run of 4 gauge wire from the dis block to my amps i put a 250 amp fuse before my dist block everything has worked great for me ever since.

    P.S. my manufacture recommendation for my t1500.1 is that i put a 200 amp fuse before the amp problem is that my amp only takes a 4 gauge wire so i figured if i put the fuse before both amps t1500.1 and a t400.5 that 250 amp fuse would work great! hehe it does!

  7. Ok so 5 people now have said "big 3".... What is that haha

    look at my diagram i upgraded all my wires to 0 gauge. i ignored the stock wiring and just added 0 gauge. from alt to bat with 0 gauge and 2 new ground wires from negative to frame and to engine everyone foes it different for different applications check out the link below it will teach you how to do it!

    this will explain how to do it

    http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/13280-how-to-do-the-big-3-tutorial/

  8. ok i have a friend who just got 2 rf p3's they are 600 rms each and he has a 1000 rms eclipse amp and i tuned everything thing in with the DD1 and we played blue berry yum yum and about 30 seconds into the song when it started to hit really hard we got the lovely electrical burnt smell its a rockford fosgate prefab box built to spec for these subs.

    just trying to figure out what may have caused this its a 2004 dodge neon with stock alt stock batt and stinger 4gauge wire no cap and a sony explode hu not my setup just trying to help him out any ideas would be awesome thanks!

  9. My system did that found out my batt was dead so i recharged it and it worked fine for another month but it was drawing more power then my alt could provide so it was draining my batt so i added a second batt did big 3 upgrade and i have tons of power to spare hehe plus i check my levels often so i know where i am at have to charge every so often still but that's why i ordered a new alt from Michael SINGER. that should solve all of my problems. i suggest you upgrade your alt that will solve all of your power issues then do a new batt i would have gone the route if i had known better lol.

    200 amp alt to fit stock location in my 01 gti was 365 shipped

  10. Thanks guys lots of great info will do! Last ? How bad from 1 -10 is it of me driving the truck with abs light on?

    it wont hurt anything it will just be annoying when you break is all

    on another hand why does anyone bleed breaks in new cars it shouldn't even need to be done unless you remove the caliper or open the bleeder valve. if you keep the system sealed (in most cases you should not have to remove the calipers to do pads) all you need to do is suck out some of the break fluid as you compress each piston back into the caliper(take in mind if there are 2 or more pistons you must compress them all at the same time. if they are not your could rupture a seal.

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