TheNewbie
-
Posts
1635 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by TheNewbie
-
-
Well, I had decided to keep my setup I have now instead of selling it.. So I went to put everything back inside the car, Amp/sub/box. Well I do so and I'm having problems. My amplifier turns on no problem, but it's not sending a signal to the subwoofer. So I check the gains everything is fine, i put the wires onto another speaker and I can slightly hear noise it makes not music, but static for the slight second i tap them onto the speaker. I checked the voltage it's fine at 13.4, the amp turns on so I would assume it's not for the remote.. RCA's are hooked up correctly. I'm kinda at a loss at this point, I would assume maybe bad RCA's being that I can hear the static from them, but there isn't music playing? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I do have a DMM but it's a cheapo from RadioShack. If it makes any difference it's a SKAR 1500.1 and a DC level 4 m2 12''. Thanks again.
-
I have a SKAR 1500.1 for 280 plus shipping if your interested. It's 1 Ohm stable, does rated, and has a gain knob that comes with it. It's only 6 months old. 9/10 cosmetically 10/10 mechanicly. If your interested please feel free to PM me and I'll check shipping tomorrow. Thanks!
-
XL 12, 15
Level 5 12, 15
93245
-
Read the subs(s) resistance of all the coils if normal engage the subsonic filter of the amp and set it a few hertz below your tuning frequency.
That problem is resloved man, more worried about why the amp popped into protect.
-
Why did the amp pop into protect then? Just because it was that hot in the car?
-
Reads 2-2.4 so it's good.
-
if its not too much of a bitch to pull it out id go ahead and pull it.. if it is you should get ur reading from your speaker terminal that gives you an idea if somethings up.. id go ahead and give the sub a once over tho if i could if i was having your issues man
I'll pull it. Once I aired out the car it started working again.. I wanna think it just got really hot in the car. Te amp is hot as hell. I haven't been playing that's just from the sun.
-
will check now, I can check through terminal speakers right? Instead of taking it all out?check the coils on your sub individually make sure they are reading right....coil got smelly then this.. could be bad news bears cope not tho
-
Didn't unplug anything and it's going again.. Could it be because it's hot in the car?
-
Well.. I started up my car today.. No bass and the amp decided to jump into protect mode.. Gunna take off power an put it back in.. Any ideas?
-
I have a friend with a Saturn ion i4 that sounds pretty decent for what it is. I'll ask him what he used and get back to ya hopefully this afternoon
Sounds good thanks. I just don't wanna sound like a Ricer going down the road..
-
It is aggressive at idle.. And when it's revved.. But sounds dif when driving.. It's hoooorible sounding I get a high constant pitch sound eeeeeeeeeeeeeee from 4-6 rpms
-
Yeah.. Was afraid of that. Damn well I could live with that sound I suppose. Sounds like that now honestly. But web I drive it as its at 4-6 Rpms sounds completely dif, it's literally a single tone till it shifts eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee shift. Just kills me. If I put a muffler on now, without putting the piping back on it it will still pass smog correct? Since there would be a cat, and muffler?
-
Well.. recently on my Mitsubishi Eclipse I decided it would be a "cool" idea to take off my muffler. So I cut the muffler off, and left some pipe before the Cat. I'm starting to get really annoyed with the sound honestly, it's horrible, I can hear the air flutter, not to metion it seems to have killed my gas milage. My question is, is it possible to get a throaty sound from my Eclipse? It's a 4 Cyl.. 2.0 non turbo DOCHE 16 Valve motor. I don't know much at all in the exhaust or mechanics catagory. Any input is great. This is the sound Im looking for.
-
don't believe so my high pass and low pass were set correctly. It wasn't able to play a certain part of the song tho but that's just the hpf and lpf working correct?
were you playing below tuning at all?Hey guys, was playing today full tilt for around 30-40 minutes and I get a faint smell up front but noticeable smell in the port. I have a dc level 4 m2. Steady 13.2 volts, and Skar 1500.1 all tune with dd-1 using -5 test tone. My question is does dc tend to have a faint smell after awhile? Guess its possible the songs just clipped to hell, being that I was playing the same song.
If it sounds like the cone is just moving with out much force, yes. But if it sounds like it has a nasty weird punch of bass, then it's not.
Yeah, its not bottoming out..
-
don't believe so my high pass and low pass were set correctly. It wasn't able to play a certain part of the song tho but that's just the hpf and lpf working correct?
were you playing below tuning at all?Hey guys, was playing today full tilt for around 30-40 minutes and I get a faint smell up front but noticeable smell in the port. I have a dc level 4 m2. Steady 13.2 volts, and Skar 1500.1 all tune with dd-1 using -5 test tone. My question is does dc tend to have a faint smell after awhile? Guess its possible the songs just clipped to hell, being that I was playing the same song.
-
I thought so as well just wanted to make sure.as i have heard it , after playing a while a little smell can happen pretty normal, but right away or really strong= DANGER , if the smell makes you uneasy back off a little bit . voice coils do get warm when gains are set to not clip after playing full tilt for an extended time
-
Hey guys, was playing today full tilt for around 30-40 minutes and I get a faint smell up front but noticeable smell in the port. I have a dc level 4 m2. Steady 13.2 volts, and Skar 1500.1 all tune with dd-1 using -5 test tone. My question is does dc tend to have a faint smell after awhile? Guess its possible the songs just clipped to hell, being that I was playing the same song.
-
How many windows are you getting tinted for $130?
A big back window along with the two sides I have a Mitsubishi eclipse.
-
I suppose I'll buy it and do a review on it then. Thanks fellers.
-
If you have had experience with it how was or is it I suppose is my question.
-
Hry guys found a deal in porterville 130 for tint and 85 for an alarm that's labor. So total of 215 for both. Any shade life time warranty but alarm I can't even find online it's. A skytech SD40? Anyone have any experience with this alarm keyless entry. I currently have nothing so I'm thinking I need new tint and something's better than nothing alarm wise. Any info is helpful thanks guys.
-
Well thank you for your time and explenation. I may actually have more space under the hood to get a bigger version of the series
We'll see when the time brings.Anytime, if your going to get another battery I would suggest xs power the price is a tad more I'm sure but they have been tested against many other batteries to be the best.
-
Going to yes. I don't have the car here yet. I am just wondering if I will get big voltage drops and if I will have to charge the battery very often
I'm not exactly sure the specs on the battery but I recently burned up my stock 90A alt big three and xp975 in back. Although it could have been on its way out as y charging voltage was 13.6 but regardless you'll need to charge up the battery's often with that little alt and the pull your amps asking for.
Thanks for your answer:)
Here are the specs of Odyssey PC1500
PC 1500 MS Design:
- Absorbed glass mat (AGM) technology
- 12V pure lead VRLA
- SAE Group 34 footprint
- Rugged construction
- SAE terminal and 3/8" stud (pos.) 5/16" stud (neg.)
- Can be mounted in any orientation
- Lifting handle
- US DOT and IATA certified non-spillable
- Shipped fully charged
- Container and cover made from oil resistant plastic
Performance features:
- PHCA: 1,500 at 80°F (27°C)
- CCA: 880A at 0°F (-18°C)
- CA/MCA: 1,050 at 32°F (0°C)
- HCA: 1,250A at 80°F (27°C)
- Reserve capacity: 135 minutes
- Short circuit current: 3,100A
- Deep cycling capability: 400 at 80% DOD
- Design life: 12 years
- Typical service life: 6 to 8 years
- Operation temperature range: -40°F
(-40°C) to 176°F (80°C)
High rate discharge:
1,500 amps for 5 seconds
1,280 amps for 10 seconds
1,170 amps for 15 seconds
1,100 amps for 20 seconds
Weight: 49 pounds
Not a problem that's just my experience with it, I'm not very knowledgeable in the battery department man might wanna wait for someone that can further help you.
- Absorbed glass mat (AGM) technology
We'll see when the time brings.
TroubleShooting
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
Yes sir. I only took out the box/sub. I left the amp in there with wires connected still but was sure to cut the neg, and pos speaker wires so they wouldn't blow the outputs.. so I'm almost positive that's not it. I'm thinking more along the lines of RCA's.. or Fuses being that when i was moving everything around my power touched the damn screw driver i had back there. But if the amp is getting power I don't think it would be any fuse under the hood/ or inside the car. So I'm thinking RCA'S. Not exactly sure how I can test that though.. When I was putting everything back together I relocated my amplifier to the back of the seat, doing so I wounded up my RCA'S and zip tied the extra to tuck away.. I think that's what did it.